Z32 Moose street car v2

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by Moose Train, Apr 14, 2020.

  1. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Had this for a few months decided to make a thread to keep all the info together.
    After parting my last 300zx; (Blown turbo, low compression engine, you get the gist) I bought very well put together 180sx that caused me no problems. Naturally I sold it to get another 300zx.

    After a search a car I had seen before came for sale (Some of you will know this car). Made a reasonable deal on it, test drove relatively fine.

    Mod list is as follows:
    Overview:
    1990 Nissan 300zx 2+0 Twin Turbo
    320rwkw @ 16psi
    Now for the mod list.....
    ENGINE/PERFORMANCE
    Bolt divorced dump + 2.75" engine pipes
    ACL 'RaceSpec' 40thou Oversized Forged pistons
    ACL Gapless rings
    Alloy Front Mount Intercooler.(600x400x90)
    APEX'i Full 2.5" Exhaust w/High flow Cats
    APEX'i Super Megaphone Mufflers
    APEXi Power Intake
    ARP forged rod bolts
    ARP head stud kit
    UAS GT2860RS Turbo kit
    R34 GTR Fuel pump
    Extrude honed ported & sandblasted manifolds
    All new braided turbo cooling and oil lines
    Overbore 40thou
    EAGLE forged conrods
    Full size stainless steel air guide
    GReddy 1.6mm headgasket
    CarCraze Silicon Intake pipes
    JWT heavy duty valve springs
    Treated (shot pien) and balanced crank
    PWR Twin Pass Radiator
    NISMO 555cc Injectors
    Port and polish
    Throttle bodies bored to 55mm
    GReddy PROFEC B Spec II Boost Controller
    Twin blue 'Go Fast Bits' Hybrid BOV's
    Nistune Engine Management System
    Inland Empire 1 piece Steel driveshaft
    JWT Full Faced Organic Clutch
    Heavy Duty 350z clutch fork
    ARP Flywheel Bolts
    NA Rear Subframe conversion
    R200 Rear Diff conversion
    UAS 1 pc clutch line
    INTERIOR/EXTERIOR
    A Pillar single gauge mount
    GReddy Boost gauge
    APEX'i Rev/Speed Meter on APEX'i stand (not working, but have replacement)
    GReddy Profec B Spec II EBC
    BOMEX Aero mirrors
    2k spec side skirts
    Chrome door sills w/ Blue Indiglo '300ZX' logo
    GZA Polished gauge ring set
    ZSPEED 300km/hr speedo
    NISMO Clear indicators
    55w 6000k HID Low Beams
    SPARCO Pedals
    Letterbox style front nose panel
    GReddy/Trust style Front bar
    TWD (Temp Warning Device) Courtesy of K-Zed
    Raybrig T10 HID LED Park lights With Raybrig transformer
    Cleared front indicatiors
    GENUINE 2000 Spec tail-lights (with Altia center panel)
    EZZUPTURBO Bonnet Struts
    WHEELS/SUSPENSION/BRAKES
    K-Sport "Kontrol Pro" Coils front

    TOP SPEED Master Cly brace
    RDA7701D Front Rotors
    RDA Rear Rotors
    QFM HPX Brake Pads all around
    CAZ Caliper adaptors to suit larger Rotors.
    Adj Front Upper Link Control Arms.
    Powertrix Tension Rods
    All urethane bushing
    BEE R rear sub-frame bushes
    UAS Front Strut Brace
    UAS Rear Strut Brace
    Whiteline Front Sway Bar
    Whiteline Rear Sway Bar
    PROJECT MU Braided Brake Lines

    Wheels
    Cosmis 10.5 + 15 and 9 +15

    Picture on the drive home
    [​IMG]

    Managed to be immediately pulled over into an RBT expecting to get the good news about the poke in the wheels. However escaped that time.
     
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  2. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    On the way home it developed a horrendous misfire which turned out to be a fuel leak which I quickly fixed up. Also a new MAF fixed the misfire for now.

    After this the car displayed a horrendous idle. Wouldn't cold idle, would hunt from 200rpm to 1.4k rpm. Also had terrible throttle response. Tested the TPS internal resistance and was out of spec replaced this. I then realised the actual TPS unit only had one bolt instead of the two bolting it to the throttle body. Watching the muli meter as the throttle increased the entire TPS unit would lift off the throttle body and slid back off the throttle pin, resulting in a .3v at WOT!
    Fixing this resulted in a perfect throttle response but the idle issue. Thinking it might be vacuum leaks at this point.
     
  3. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Got the to do list sorted
    Did a quick and nasty plenum pull to delete PVC. Rushed it to get to a car show. Ended up fixing a stripped plenum bolt by retapped it and ended up stripping another one. Note to self do it right do it once.


    Replace these silicon intake hoses. They are terrible to fit and am wary about the heat they soak in.
    Remove the heater core lines and replace. The rear one is completely rusted.
    remove the turbo coolant lines and replace. plus most of the other coolant lines.
    timing belt and water pump (Not sure when last done so prudent to do it)
    clean injectors and seals
    clean idle control again
    rewire half the loom that is fraying
    relocate battery
    redo fuel lines with fpr
    replace lower plenum
    knock sensor
    drop exhaust reweld holes in it and replace 02 sensors as they have been cut off
     
  4. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    [​IMG]
    This rusty fender bolt had been annoying me since I purchased the car. What better way than some ZSPEC bolts! Thanks to rob from rgs for them.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Much better. Might aswell start with the easiest jobs - 5 minutes, 1 beer.
     
  5. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    So I’m not the only one who uses the consumption of beer to time gone by method :)
    Nice looking car btw mate

    Col
     
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  6. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Hey they got there quick - good stuff
     
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  7. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Weekend means procrastination of jobs that need to be done.
    Slowly working towards the blacked out engine bay look.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    He is some other photos as well since I just gave it a clean. Sold the 305 rear wheels as they poked too much. These 265 are having some significant traction issues thought. Might need to upgrade.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    i miss the white wheels
     
  10. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    So do I. Unfortunately they were too skinny on the front, and too wide on the rear. I'm on the search for new ones now actually.
     
  11. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

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    I can identify with you about traction issues. Recently I decided to upgrade the tires on my car, did a bit research and settled on Michelin pilot supper sport. 275 r 235 f. These things are ordinary cold, but when warmed the grip is reassuringly solid, cold=dangerous.. warmed up solid reliable.
     
  12. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    The whole traction thing is tricky. Usually tyres that grip well wear horribly and vice versa. Semi sick type tyres put plenty of rubber on the road but do not disperse water well. I guess it’s good to think about how you want to use the car.

    Learning to read UTQG specs can help steer you in the right directing https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48
     
  13. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

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    Using my car when its raining is not something I don't do a lot, although the Michelins as a wet weather tire, are pretty good, ie.. better grip than cold tiers on a dry road, which is echoed by most drivers who use them. They are semi slick but have two deep centralized groves which throws quite a lot of water from under the tire, they don't plain at speed, or I can't feel it. Having said that, they still need some heating up to get the best grip from wet roads. Done about 3000k's on them, and they look worn, some of the lateral groves are now hard to see, on both back and front tires.
     
  14. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Cheers for that link. Also sneaky pun hidden there.
     
  15. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    [​IMG]
    Picked up some more greddy gauges. If anyone is selling a oil pressure one let me know. Plus z32 mouse pad ive had for ages.
     
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  16. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    nice looking gauges
     
  17. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Been busy with life. Finally got back and naturally avoiding anything to fix my exhaust and idle issue.
    Grabbed the fender problem. The panel gap was atrocious.
    https://i.imgur.com/Aju3kFt.png
    Spent ages fiddling around with the fender. Checked the pinch weld and it had copped a huge serve of the good news.
    Basically just used vice grips to bend it back, put a piece of wood on it and smacked it semi flush. Didn't take any photos but I really need to do this properly on a hoist rather on the ground. Re mounted the fender and it was great.
    Re attached my side skirt annndd i realised the entire problem. The side skirt (or maybe the car) was ill fitting and literally dragged the fender towards the door causes it to impact when the door was opened. Shimmed the fender mount on the pinch weld to give it a clearance, panel gap isnt perfect but wasn't the best. Will have to eventually fix the side skirt in the future.
     
  18. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Grabbed some Work Emotion CR KAI. 18*9.5 +12.
    Re003 on the front and RS4 on the back. A bit stancey but once these wear out hopefully upgrade to 275.
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Started my motor semi tear down.
    New parts include
    120k service
    ARP idler studs
    Valve covers
    PCV delete
    new lower plenum
    new knock sensor.
    playing with doing all the power steering hoses and chucking a rebuild kit through it.

    Compare left head which has been cleaned to right...

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Also about to change engine mounts, is it advisable to drop the subframe slightly or can get away with just supporting the engine?
     

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