So I am moving hose in the coming months, and I've got a ute-load of stuff that needs a new home- Stuff from both my NA and TT that I've been accumulating since 2006. Sadly, I can't take it all with me when I move All prices are excluding postage- I'll do my best to post parts australia wide, but for some parts, this is not economically rational. PM me to let me know what parts you want, and I'll update the thread when I can. This will happen in a first in-first served fashion (It's easier this way). I have Paypal, so if you want something FAST, I can generally have it posted off the next day, after postage is calculated. Pickup of parts from north Lake Macquarie (20 min south of Newcastle) is also welcome. So here goes... BLING CUSTOM thermofan setup This setup uses a 16", high quality SPAL thermofan with screw-blade design, capable of pulling 1600 CFM air thru your radiator for extreme cooling. Tony at Iceman Intercoolers in Newcastle made this one-off designed shroud, allowing you to ditch your power-sucking viscous fan, and run an electric cooling to free up those extra ponies. The fan/shroud combo was used with a 42mm twin-pass radiator, and cleared all accessory belts, allowing maximum air volume within the shroud. The stainless steel shroud is finished to a high polish, and will affix easily to your aftermarket radiator with a few screws. Was used for 2 months before I 'detuned' my car for daily-drive duties. The spal fan alone retails for nearly $200, grab the whole package for $220- half the price of what I paid for parts, materials fabrication and labour. Polished top and bottom coolant hard pipes- These are a DIY home polish job, which have come out rather good for a 'modest' bling upgrade. Initially sanded with 80 grit to even out the casting dimples, and finished up on the bench-grinder with buffing compound, these hard pipes will add that 'wow' factor to your engine bay while everyone else has crusty old alloy ones. They are not fully polished, instead focusing on the areas that are seen when installed. They would make an ideal candidate for chrome or HPC coating, for someone chasing a show quality finish. Closes ups show the lustre, but take note that some small dimples from the casting of these parts are still present. With general observation, these will still look one hundred dollars, but since I'm a nice guy, a lucky punter can have them for $80. Polished NA IACV air tube, with hoses- Another DIY polished part , this IACV pipe will complement your polished plenum or other parts, while still performing as a OEM part. To the best of my knowledge, the only difference between NA and TT IACV tubes is the rubber hoses. This has had excess brackets removed, while still retaining the balance pipe mount and side of plenum mount points. The hangers for the wiring loom are still in place, allowing zip ties to hold wiring firmly away from the hot engine parts in the vicinity. It can use some detail polishing work in the hard-to-reach areas, however the bulk of the piece has a nice shine, which is the main thing, unless you are one of those obsessive compulsives who notices every blemish. See pics for the finish- $40 Euro2 spec high-flow Metal cats These 'high-flow' metal catalyst cats have a 2.5inch inlet and outlet, allowing you to attain a more free-flowing exhaust, and achieve power gains in your NA or TT vehicle. These were installed on my TT which I had removed to pas a noise and emissions inspection.There is enough pipe left on the cats to get a good weld on, making these an easy fix through your local exhaust shop. These cats were removed early 2010, and were manufactured in jan 2007 (see pic), so have barely been broken in Other metal cats retail for $300 each, I'll let these euro2 compliant versions go for $250 for the pair (Factor in 50 bucks to fit these bad boys, and your zed will thank you, your wallet will thank you, and you walk away with a great modificaiton on the cheap) Engine parts NA headers- Flanges are still flat, O2 bungs are in good condition. Studs are servicable, I can chase the threads with a die if you don't plan to replace them before fitting. Some metallic gasket still present on mating surfaces. $30 NA intake pipes- Unlike many out there, these intakes are still soft at the clamping surfaces, and not split or folded over due to incorrect fitment over time. All PCV nipples and vac tubes are in good condition. Comes with 4x original hose clamps (not pictured). NB: the lower clamps have a rubber tang that stops it sliding around when fitting, which makes installation a breeze. $50 NA lower radiator hose- Still soft and supple (NOT crunchy), this rad hose would cost $150 to replace. Comes with the supporting bracket which bolts to the radiator support. Good for a spare (should your trusty NA spring a leak), or even as a hose to hack up for fitting an aftermarket radiator- yours for $30 Engine mounts- OE engine mounts like this bolt to the engine block, and sit above the rubber dampers. Buy these to modify / grind when fitting bigger turbos, or use as a design aid for a custom set. $40 Oil pressure sender- Working when removed from a NA back in 2006. Has been boxed ever since. $30 Accellerator Cable-Moves freely $10 Lower alternator bracket- Comes with slide and locking nuts. $10 Starter motor- Works every time $60 Starter motor wiring loom- will be freshly wrapped in electrical tape before sending off $50. Buy BOTH for $100 AUTO Balance Tube- Freshly coated in matte black, liven up your old cracked and peeling one for only $20 NA Fuel reg, damper, and hard lines- Take them away for only $20... you're looking at a couple of bucks EACH for the nissan EFI hose clamps that come with this Negative Battery harness (earth)- This came off a NA auto, but not sure if they are different between transmissions. All eyelet connectionsa re in good nick, as well as the factory brackets. Could use a fresh wrap of electrical tape in sections, I can do this before the sale. $30 Cam covers- These cam covers come with all PCV tubes, and would suit someone looking for replacements for their build, or a spare set for painting in a colour that suits their engine bay 'theme'. I had a shot at polishing the one of them, but realized how futile it was after a short time. Pick these bad boys up for $50, or make it $60 if you want me to slap a coat of primer or rattle-can black on them Bag-O-Valves- These valves came out of a NA, from some servicable, but disassembled heads. I never got around to porting or polishing those heads, so the valves remain bagged, and labelled as to their position. For someone looking for NA heads to rebuild, PM me for the whole package. Cam caps would need to be line-bored, tolerances measured. One cam cap had a stripped thread, and showed some score marks on the cap. For a DIY porter wondering how much metal can be removed before hitting a coolant jacket, you could chop these heads up for a bit of R&D Buy the valves for $20, and I'll throw in the NA heads and stuff for FREE, or don't, and I'll pay the scrap metal dealer down the road a visit. Heads are heavy. Pickup preferred. Series 1 Intake and exhaust cam gears- If you are one of those people that chew thru cam gears with your lumpy cams, consider these as a suitable replacement. For someone wanting to send them off to BDE in the states to get reconditioned, these are just the thing you need. If you want a heavy lump of metal to fling thru someone's window... these will do the job (but are more expensive then the ordinary house-brick). Grab these for $80 for all 4.
I ran it on my 42mm PWR radiator with about 5mm clearance to the closest accessory belt. To run this with a 56mm, you might get away with mounting the fan on the inside of the shroud, as opposed to the outside as pictured. Please have a read thru the following thread to work out if it is something that would be suitable for you: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281732
So people can keep up: Stuff that's still available Polished radiator hard pipes Balance pipe (Manual) Used NA rad pipe with support bracket NA headers NA intake pipe (VGC) OE Engine mount pedestals Accellerator cable Alternator bracket Starter motor Starter motor / alternator loom (can buy as a package) NA fuel reg, dampner and hard lines (with clamps!) Negative battery terminal harness Cam covers (can be painted for you, or polish them up for yourself!) Bag-O-Valves - use these to protect the valve seats if you are doing a port and polish! S1 cam gears
I'll get some measurements tomorow afternoon mate, just let me know how long it has to be- Keep in mind though that throttle adjustment and cable stretch can be adjusted thru the adjuster barrels on the plenum. Also, throttle plate adjustment procedure is in the service manual on page EM-23
Did not know the plate has an adjuster, I made up a spacer behind the accelerator while I had the dash out, because my adjuster on the plenum was already maxed and was a little loose.
