ok, i have checked the spark plug and seems fine, have changed out the coilpack with another and no difference... there is no clicking noise coming from the injector? could if b rooted? i recently changed all way injector and coilpack connectors... i checked the injector with a multimeter and got 0 resistance on both injector not clicking and injector clicking... is there anything else it could be? or i could do to check? im outta ideas and thinking about taking it 2 a mechanic after the weeked.....:wacko:
If the injector aint clicking, it aint working! Get a long flat screwdriver and place the blade end on top of the injector cap (not the connector) an put your ear onto the end of the handle. Do this with another injector so you now what to listen for but the sound if very distinct. I recently diagnosed this porblem and found the injector to be stuffed but the engine had been sitting for a few years. Make sure the injector connector is on properly. The new style connectors need modifying to fit number five injector cause of the fuel rail fouling with it. Resistance test accross the terminals of the injector should give 12ohms but a siezed injector will give a resistance anyway. Should get around 12 volts at the injector connector when the engine is running. Also the injector terminals must be almost spotless for them to function properly.
Recheck your wiring to injectors (one side should have)-> 12v Constant and the other should have continuity to the appropriate ECU pins. but first thing before this is check for corrosion on injector terminals...
Re: Recheck your wiring to injectors (one side should have)-> not ptu at all.. i'm seconding zed4life
update... have found it 2 be the injector plug not working i think...injector doesnt click with correct cylinder plug on. yet when i place another injector plug from a different cyl it "clicks" fine...i only did this for a few seconds... i have rewired up the faulty plug again and again...but doesnt help. the wiring to the ecu seems to be ok? get the same reading across wires as with other cylinder plugs? think i mite need to take it to some1
Re: update... bad corrosion roots these plugs up, is it green inside.. might just need a good clean and retension (see tech section).. i replaced all of my connectors as they were shite
Which injector/cyl no.?..... #1 ???? Have you had ECU out/unplugged? No.1 injector pins to ECU are at top end of ECU connector and may be NOT fully 'engaged'. Push the blue ECU connector in firmly at both ends.
not for a while no. tis number 5...(drivers side rear)...tis confusing the hell out of me. i have modified the plug. cleaned terminals. tested with multimeter...
When you say modified the plug is the plug pushing all the way down on the injector. Does the plug lock in and can only be removed by pressing the release pin?
i cant get it to clip... the way my fuel rail goes doesnt allow the clip to retract and locate...but it is pressed down all the way onto the injector... have used die grinder to buzz it smaller
That ones a bitch isn't it. Try it with the retaining clip removed and the right way around ( slot in conector alighned with the protrusion on the injector). #5 is the one connector that has to be modified to fit
i know its on there firm coz i can push it with a screwy and it gones no furster...plus it i put another plug from a diff injector it works...figure that 1...its all beyond me...
Re: i know its on there firm coz i can push it do you have the new conectors? i put the wire clip on from the other side for number 5.. worked a treat
checked it with a injector test light 2day... turns out the wiring is shot through ( ithink) as the light doesnt flash when the car is on... what i am wondering is now i figured it out that the wiring is rooted...can i get a auto sparky to just rerun 2 new wires through the firewall to the ecu? or should the wiring harness be replaced? ryan
If just those two wires broken then just do those two wires In fact this is quite simple. For the constant 12v you only need to connect this up to the 12v feed to another injector and for the earth pulse wire run a fresh wire straight thru the inner guard next to/in front of the battery. Take off the pass front wheel and rearward splash guard then you come thru the firewall via the main wiring grommet and you will be right at the ECU. As far as locating the correct ECU wire, use the service manual... Replacing the entire loom is MUCH more work and MUCH more expensive
That sounds pretty simple... Sounds like something i can do myself...the only thing i am still unsure about is...is there a possibility it could b the ecu? i dont have another TT manual down here ( in bunbury)and my clostest option would b to borrow a TT auto... first question...is there a way to test if the ecu is to blame? without swaping it? i have no error codes... 2nd question if i need to swap it and as i only have ascess to a auto ecu can i still run my manual for a few seconds to test with an injector light? cheers
ECU fault is unlikely, but ... You can run an Auto TT ECU in your Zed no probs. Test ECU Injector pins - No.s 101,103,105,110,112,114 with IGN OFF and you should see battery voltage (12v) at each pin. You can also do a continuity test from the dud injector connector back to the relevant pin, injector#5 = pin #105.
