Master Cylinder change - how do I get it to bleed!

Just changed my clutch master cylinder (with a new one) and I can not get the thing to bleed at all. Tried the recommendations from the Tech section with no luck.

Hate this car with a passion the longer I own it!!!! Stupid Nissan couldnt make a simple system -no it has to have 3 F^&%^&%N bleed nipples!
Z love is gone for the moment.

Anyone got any ideas!

MB

 

I dont think you can blame nissan for the broken bleed nipples.

Are you using the proper spanner???They look like this

 

Vacuum bleeder helps lots.

Other than that, jack up the front of the car nice and high and bleed all the nipples 3 times. So headlight bleeder, slave, master (if fitted), headlight again, slave again, master again etc.

I normally go through a whole bottle of fluid doing it.

 

i just went thru this the other day too, the inner guard bleeder is the key. open that sucker up and just keep pumping. stay with it.

it will work

 

You must jack the front of the car as high as you can [leave the back wheels on the ground] & bleed as Chrispy has stated ,thats the only way without a master cylinder pressure cap.

 

Yes, Vacuum bleed process is the best and quickest. If you don't have this option. Just keep following Chrispy's process till it's cleared up. But make sure front is jacked up, it quickens the process big time!

 

Old motor bike trick. Put a long hose on the inner gaurd bleeder and a long hose on the master cylinder bleeder, tie them both up in the air to the bonnet, crack both nipples loose, fill resi with fluid and leave overnight. I the morning both hoses should have leveled out, tighten the nipples and bleed the slave, job done.

 

No broken nipples all good there mate!

 

Been trying it for 2 hours and 2 bottle of fluid and still getting no movement from the slave cylinder, WTF????? Going to try get a hard line straight from the master to slave tomorrow, sick of stupid nissan system. Dumbest idea I ever have seen!

 

Sick of owning a car I cant drive!!!!

 

?????

You did'nt by chance leave something out when fitting the new master cyl. did you.
Probrably another silly question but, you do know that bleeding the clutch manually is a 2 person job?.
Dont flame me but I have seen people in the past try these things by them selves and not be able to work out why it doesnt work
I did mine bled down to the slave cyl, then headlight bleeder then slave again, wife on pedal duty, worked a treat.
Andy

 

Speak to john at UAS and get a braided line direct from master to slave cylinder. I got one bleed it in 15 mins, and gear changes are alot smooother

 

Yeah thanks Andy tried the misssus on the clutch pedal and just keep getting air! Doesnt seem to be moving as much fluid as it did in the past - have had to do it before when putting braided line on the bottom, and was no issues at all??????

 

Yeah I think this is the go - Emille (MoulaZX) suggested this also only he has gone hardline direct from the master to the bottom then a short braided line to the slave. I think I will go this option as I already have the short braided line at the bottom. Thanks for the tips guys - apologise for the sooky bitchin grumbles but this car has been nothing but dramas for the last 8 months.

 

A big thanks to CHILLI for his visit today and we finally got the clutch sorted.

I started by removing the factory Nissan hardlines and replacing these with a custom hardline from the master cylinder to the bottom bracket where the braided line goes straight to the slave cylinder.

After 10 mins we had all the air out of it and the clutch was working. Thanks all for the tips, clutch is a little harder on the leg with this setup but not enought to worry you.

MattB

 

Awesome to hear, now if only mine will f'ing work like its supposed to...

MoulaZX

 

Had to bleed mine a fair bit, and even with the new line setup it took a whill to get all the air out. Make sure you have bled it from the nipple at the master (if you have one)

MattB

 

Don't have that, just one at slave cylinder...

MoulaZX

 

As much as it's a real PITA, you will still be better off to attempt to bleed at the M/Cyl before proceeding down to the Slave Cyl.
Just crack open the tube nut where the clutch line comes out of the M/Cyl and pretend it's a bleed nipple(awkward but advisable if your having problems expelling all the trapped air).
Stick plenty of waste rag around under the M/Cyl to soak up any spillage.

 

Me and my dad did that earlier, didn't do much, but then again that was before I had the CMC rebuilt. Not re-sleeved, just rubbers replaced. May need to do that again now.

MoulaZX