Massive boost leak, see pic inside

Discussion in 'Technical' started by ZWEETT, Apr 26, 2004.

  1. ZWEETT

    ZWEETT Active Member

    I decided to blow up my intake system to listen for boost leaks, and I couldn't blow it up fast enough and the air was escaping at a rapid amount, some where in the area I have circled in the picture.

    I have to do it in bursts as I can't hear the leak over the air going into the intake.Any one have an Idea as to what pipe it could be, it doesn't seem to be on the surface pipes but very close I just cant pin point it to what one, Any hints for pin pointing?[image]http://members.iinet.net.au/~mwv/300zx/boostleak.jpg[/image]
     
  2. Beano

    Beano Member

    how do you know????

    How do you know that the inlet and exhaust valves aren't open on the cylinder at the rear RHS of the block?If they were, you will get air flowing straight into exhaust manifold, which may be what you are hearing.
     
  3. ZisLuv

    ZisLuv New Member

    Get a brush and soapy water...

    use detergent or something. As the air escapes it will blow bubbles and you can see where its coming from.
     
  4. ZWEETT

    ZWEETT Active Member

    Throttle bodies are closed (n/m)

    N/M
     
  5. Z-ster

    Z-ster Active Member

    Yep, soapy water is the way to go

    I had the same problem, I could hear the leak while blowing up the intake but was unable to pinpoint the exact location of it until I used the soapy water technique described above. :YD
     
  6. DUB

    DUB BRAMIS Photography

    Hmm, i'd be tracking that wastegate solenoid

    Scott, and seeing if it is hooked up to anything?
    Maybe see if the rubber rings on the balance tube are sound, or even missing too for a start.How's the shifter going?
     
  7. ZWEETT

    ZWEETT Active Member

    I ll give it shot.....

    See if I can get any results. !The short shifter is sweet, top work there. :YD Gave it a bit of stick from the lights 3,000 rpm launch bit of wheel spin :D but all good, defiantly makes it quicker with the shorter throw. })
     
  8. DUB

    DUB BRAMIS Photography

    SHHHHHWEET!! :) (n/m)

    N/M
     
  9. BlatZ

    BlatZ New Member

    Had one in this location b4

    Under all that surface crap there is the line connected to the EGR valve i think. It actually comes from the EGR, via rubber hose to a metal pipe at the back of the plenum, runs under the plenum then comes off just under "turbo" wording on the plenum from memory to a vacuum hose going to those switches and stuff. Mine had gone stiff from age and just come off. Cleaned up idle nicely too when I cut it and replaced it. Hopefully it will be this simple and you dont have to fight to get to the wastegate solenoid. Cheers
    Phil:-Z
     
  10. ZWEETT

    ZWEETT Active Member

    Thanks, Think I killed my MAF as well :`(

    I stuck it all back in this morning when for a drive to the shops got back though I would do an ECU diagnostic for the hell of it and it spat me code 12, the MAF sensor :(((
     
  11. ZisLuv

    ZisLuv New Member

    Nope not killed...

    at some point you likely just started the car without the MAF attached. Hence its logged at code 12. That code will stay there despite it being hooked up correctly now until you clear the codes. You either do this with a conzult, or simply unplug the battery for 30 minutes.Once you have done this, start the car briefly, then check codes again. Should be gone. If not then you DO have a problem, but Id be suprised.
     
  12. EvZ

    EvZ 1BAD300

    zisluv makes sense to me

    but if you need a temp MAS or Consult equiv to check it out then let me know. I'm free most of this week.EvZ
     
  13. chewy

    chewy Active Member

    does your dyno graph say

    "torque flywheel" for the torque curve?
     
  14. Turbo Z

    Turbo Z Speed Freak

    Also check...

    further to the left of your circle to the input to the factory boost gauge box... I notice that you've got an alarm fitted near there and when they did mine originally they undid mine to make room for the alarm and the hose was very worse for wear after and soon started leaking. At least it was easy to get to.
     
  15. egghau

    egghau SHIFT_what again?

    And also

    found the ends of both booster vaccuum(?) lines on mine very much worse for wear. Very hard, very split, cut end off and split again refitting. Ended up with replacing hose with a straight piece of aftermarket stuff, the bends are mild enough.
     
  16. ZWEETT

    ZWEETT Active Member

    Sweet, All is good now, cheers. (n/m)

    N/M
     
  17. ZWEETT

    ZWEETT Active Member

    I am stumped by this leak. I think...>

    The plenum will have to come off t get to it.Trust the bastard to be under there.... ! }D
     
  18. DUB

    DUB BRAMIS Photography

    I think you might be sucking air from

    a worn pipe cos that would cause the idle to be about where yours is atm.
    Shouldn't be hard to find if we jack it up to get underneath, but taking the plenum off is way too drastic at this stage. It's pretty easy to get hold of a stethescope to probe for the exact spot, but spraying some Innox at idle at specific spots can cause the idle to rise if you hit where it is sucking from. Worth a try plus you've just got to love the smell of Innox!!! 8-}
     
  19. ZisLuv

    ZisLuv New Member

    Yep. (n/m)

    N/M
     
  20. Beano

    Beano Member

    well of course the TB's are closed!!

    Or else all the pressure would leak out of the manifold through the TB's.I am talking about the inlet and exhaust valves in the cylinder head. at some point towards the end of the exhaust stroke, both valves are open at the same time, meaning any air you use to pressurise the inlet manifold can leak straight into the exhaust system.
     

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