Major Service - Torque Wrench recommandation ?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by z-alot, Nov 5, 2012.

  1. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    I think its time for me to get a torque wrench, doing major service on 3 family cars including my 300zx which I'll do last after practising.

    Whats the most handy torque wrench option for doing timing/aux belt & water pump on the z32. Plus bonus of doing up wheel nuts.

    Thinking about these options with the first W&B being most logical to me due to the large torque range.. probably wont need to buy another torque wrench unless I need a bigger one for wheel/suspension stuff.

    Options -

    Beam Type
    3/8" W&B 5 - 120nm

    or

    Click Type
    3/8" Norbar 8 - 50nm
    1/2" Norbar 50 - 250nm

    or

    Click Type
    3/8" Norbar 1 - 20nm
    1/2" Norbar 30 - 150nm (or swap with 50 - 250nm)

    All options are pretty much within the $250 range each.

    I wrote down all the torque values for all the cars.

    The 3/8 W&B seems to be a best fit for all cars major servicing except for the 300zx cam seal/springs at 1.1 - 1.3 nm and cam shaft intake sprocket at 123-132nm.

    Dont know if its crucial for those parts to be torqued up to spec. I guess cam seal/springs just finger nip tight and intake sprocket use the W&B up to 120Nm with a tiny extra with regular wrench.

    Hopefully the 3/8" W&B beam type isn't too big in size to do the work within the engine bay.

    Any advice appreciated.
     
  2. kakaboy

    kakaboy New Member

    Unless your striping engine down for a rebuild a torque wrench is unecessary . Most difficult is to brace the cam from turning while your doing it up . 90 foot pounds thats the same as head bolts torque . I better check mine now :p
     
  3. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Don't get too carried away with torquing things up. I only really use mine for things like head bolts, cam caps, suspension arms and things like that. Everything else I just do up so that it feels right.

    I've got a W&B 1/2" and a supercheap 1/2" one for suspension things and also good as a ratchet breaker bar sometimes :p The W&B gets treated like the baby Jesus.
     
  4. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    I was more concerned about doing everything by the book for items involving timing belt and water pump/thermostat housing.. Especially for the my sisters Astra where its known for timing belt/water pump failures.

    No one here really uses a torque wrench for major service items..
     
  5. kakaboy

    kakaboy New Member

    I doubt it would fail from the fastened bolts .
     
  6. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    If you get excited I would torque up the idlers and whatnot.

    Remember with thermostat housings and things like that you have to be careful not to squeeze the gasket goo out. Do up lightly, let it dry and then do it up properly. Though it can depend on which sealant you use, read the back of the tube.
     
  7. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    If you think I'll be alright without a torque wrench, I'll give it ago without..

    Just looked at the parts for another car and yep doesnt look like it matters what specific torque idlers/pulleys are at as long as its not crazy tight..

    I'll remember the tip for the water pump sealant :D
     
  8. newz

    newz New Member

    Grab a kinchrome $80 1/2" one from Bunnings, covers 10-200nm from memory. Idler studs I would torque... Why not just toque everything to be honest, doesn't take long and give you piece of mind.
     
  9. Zxdream

    Zxdream Guest

    W&B beam type are the most accurate and consistent (I used to calibrate torque wrenches)
     
  10. Instamatic

    Instamatic Active Member

    I've always used a torque wrench during timing belt related work. Given how much of a pain it is to access that area of the engine, I figure it's much better to have everything torqued up to spec and not have to worry about things wriggling loose.
     

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