Leaking tank, fix or replace?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by waZed, Jan 13, 2014.

  1. waZed

    waZed Member

    Hey guys, as the title says, i have a 2+0 with a leaking tank. Being the pain in the ass 2+0's are, ive had to drop the subframe and have a good look at the tank. The tank looks like it has got a small kink, as if it has been sucked in by vacuum (or poked with a shark stick hah)

    Ive always had the tank 'woosh' when i opened the lid, but i just assumed it was normal as ive heard others describe a similar situation on their cars! Apparently not aha.

    Anyways , my question is: Should i clean the tank and JB weld the kink up, or look for a second hand one? Has anyone here had experience with JB before? The interwebs seem to think its ok to use, but im just being cautious. Dont really want to pull the tank again in 500kms haha.

    Any advise would be appreciated! And any spare 2+0 tanks you may have lying around =P I want to make the cruise next month for a change!

    Trent
     
  2. Jordz

    Jordz Fashionably Late

    Permatex do a permanent fuel tank repair kit. Part number 09101. It says permanent and they cost about $40. Id give that a go.
     
  3. IB

    IB ?????

    Replace and buy a new genuine fuel cap.

    I went through two tanks before I realised I had the wrong cap. The pics are gone but this was my post on subject.

    My first tank had a leak like you described and and the JB weld didn't last long, neither did a specialised fuel tank repair product.
     
  4. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    For what you'd pay for a good used tank, it would be a good idea to replace it.
    Fuel leakage is something you definitely don't want.
    The fuel tanks are not vented, that sound you hear is normal, it's air entering the tank as you release the seal of the cap.
    On the other hand, if you've removed the charcoal canister, the fuel tank will develop pressure, & the noise would be the pressure releasing.
     
  5. waZed

    waZed Member

    Hmm good points, thanks. Alright, i think ill go the second hand tank route if i can find one. The Permatex is a good idea though, thank you.
    The pain in the ass of subframe removal makes my mind for me. My CC hasnt been removed but will be soon.

    IB, do you have the part number of the cap you purchased? Im not sure who the 'caz' you referred to in your post is.. Even a Aus site that i could buy from if its cheaper then from nissan.

    Thanks!
     
  6. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    May I enquire as to the reason you intend to remove the charcoal canister?
     
  7. IB

    IB ?????

    Sorry, that was a few years ago (and Caz Racing is long gone). This would be the same cap.
     
  8. waZed

    waZed Member

    I read that the US and Aus filler necks may be different in your previous thread..
    Ill email Coz and ask if they know if they are the same.

    Thanks for your help :)
     
  9. waZed

    waZed Member

    I will be fitting massive intercoolers soon. As far as i am aware to make them fit, they need to go.
    Im not sure if they will fit with one of the slimmer Cc's that some people have retro fitted. That is also a possible option once i find out how much room is left.

    According to my research the downside of Cc removal is chance of fuel smell? Dosnt seem like too high a cost to pay :)
     
  10. syntax_X

    syntax_X Zed Head

    The cost, effort, and end result of using a tank sealant or welding far outweighs just going out and finding a used one in good condition.

    I came to this forum looking for a tank for a 2+0 TT.
    Got an NA one with pump and filler, looked A1 inside for less than 300.

    Getting that rear subframe down enough to slide a tank in is the kind of job you want to do once.
     

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