Manual is faster than a stock auto, unsure about with SAW though. Plus, manual is so much better! And the shifter looks much better too!
Times the number of years im older than you...thats how many more than you i got...well so far I might change my dp to LOL I suggest you go manual too Abraham
Not gunna deny the first comment, definitely is. But I'm not looking for speed in a NA, and if I really wanted to do tracks, I'd go with manual. However, I'll rarely get on the track, more likely drags then anything. In that case we can all argue what's going to shift faster, but that's all been discussed before. Dean, does the idea of having a dildo shaped object in your car excite you a tad?
Few updates, had an accident in it... Still yet to get that fixed up. Fitted my new wheels, Varrstoen 2.2.1's. 18x9.5+22 all round, running 245/40/18's.s Rears fit fine without guard rolling, fronts need the tension rod to be adjusted as they currently scrub against the radiator overflow bottle. Got the car booked in for tomorrow morning to have a wheel alignment, hoping all goes to plan! Car looks like a 4wd with its current ride height, definitely needs to be lowered. Photo's will follow tomorrow with how it currently sits. Also stockpiling a fair pile of parts to be put on, keep your eyes out for a tech day once some good weather comes around
Never got a chance to upload photo's as the Tyre shop I was dealing with at that current time deemed that adjusting the tension rods wouldn't have any effect on the wheel scrubbing. Took the car home and did the tension rods myself, they fit perfectly with still plenty of room for it to be lowered. Big day today, picking up and installing full leather interior which happen to include recaros. I'll post some photo's if I don't get home too late. Could be a long day considering AndyMac is more then likely still wasted as we speak and will therefore be rendered useless later on in the day
Where do I start?... Firstly, in about 2-3 weeks i'll be buying another Z. It's Andymacs car that he was intending/used for track events. The one pictured below. Specs: Approx 150k Km's on the car Forged bottom end Hi-flow turbos 540cc injectors All new timing belt, tensioner and pulleys, Big radiator and 16" SPAL fan. Aragosta/Ohlin coilovers with Bilstein springs (require fronts rebuilt) Camber arms, strut braces etc Brake dogbone adaptors for bigger disks HID headlights 295/30/18 PZERO Corsa - rear 235 / 45 /18 PZERO corsa - front Stillen SMIC's Uas front bar and an unknown spare 5 puck clutch with chrome-moly flywheel 18psi wastegate spring installed Socketed and tuned by Andy himself Making roughly 305rwkw@17-20psi Now i've got just over two years to acheive what I want to do, before I pull the transmission+engine and swap it over to my car. Here's the go, i'm wanting to reach 350rwkw. Anything less and i'll be disappointed, anything more and i'll be over the moon. The problem/question I need answering. How do I get there? I've had a few lists put together by some quite knowledgeable members, with rough prices attached too. Both pose very good reasons as to why they went with the choices they did. I'm after the opinions of some other members too. Not because I don't trust or value the opinions of the other members, just for a larger consensus. The lists aren't 100% complete and are missing things. 1) MSP Manifolds - $695 Nistune - $250-$400 Tune - $700-$1k Turbo Timer - $100-$200? GT2560R - $2600 Selin Kit - $500 2 x Pod's for Selin - $240 Jecs 740cc - $475 Alloy Toyz 300ZX 3in SS - $320 Alloy Toyz 300ZX 3.0 inch -2.5 inch Stainless Steel Testpipes(resonated) - $360 Boost controller - $500-$600 2) 2560's - $2600 cams - $1000 Injectors - $500 Nistune - $300 Extruded honed mani's - $500 Dumps - $320 Custom exhaust piping - $500 2.5" intake piping $500 EBC $500 turbo timer $100 One of my bigger questions are in regards to the direction I should take with manifolds. This is one of the views I received in regards to them... "MSP are too big for your power levels and will just give more lag and power benefit. with manifolds, turbo's work on pressure right, so the higher pressure on one side, the faster it escapes to the low pressure area on the exhaust side of the blower so if you go too big for how much exhaust gas you have available, then the pressure is lower and spool time is slower" Also another question that I pose - Is a selin kit necessary for this kind of build? I've had conflicting views saying that it is a necessity and another saying that it's not. That's just the start of it all, there will be plenty of other questions asked in the not too distant future.
You definitely need some sort of intake upgrade for 350RWKW whether it be a Selin kit, MAP sensor or whatever else. As for the manifolds question, I'd say MSP isn't going to hinder you at less than 350RWKW, but I have nothing to back me up with this other than observation. Also I personally wouldn't pay $500 for stock ported manifolds as opposed to $700 for a whole new product that's been proven to work. If I had to pick between the two lists, I'd say go with the first one. Reason being you can save the $1000 on cams, standard manual can and will do the job your after while still keeping spool time down. This is all just personal preference, but the top list looks similar to my current build, which is looking at a similar goal to you.
Not keen on MAP sensor... So a selin kit would be the preference. I'm thinking i'll shoot John @ UAS a message and ask his opinion on the manifolds. He knows his shit and would be able to give me a good idea.
Why no MAP? If I could get my hands on a VPC or similar I would. I know of a car running 360RWKW with MSP, does the job just fine, and this thing bloody moves.
Ha I wouldn't touch that retro management shit with a barge pole.... Either Nistune and Selin kit for dual intakes, or up the budget and go Vipec or similar.
I'm under the belief that you can't do a MAP sensor with Nistune. Please correct me if i'm wrong though?
MSP Manifolds - $695 Extruded honed mani's - $500 Like Dean said I would sooner pay $700 for mike's manifolds than spend $500 chasing extrude honed. Last I heard the company that owns the extrude honing machine wasn't doing manifolds anymore but that was years ago so may have changed. Anyway MSP manifolds are well made, good fit and even flow accross all six runners. You'd be crazy not to fit them. Nistune - $250-$400 Tune - $700-$1k Selin Kit - $500 2 x Pod's for Selin - $240 If you're shooting for big power you're going to need twin intakes. The Nistune/Selin combination is the cheapest way to do it, otherwise look at standalone ECU options from Vipec, Haltech, Adaptronic. All have "plug in" options that can be configured for Z32, cheapest is Adaptronic at around $1600 and most expensive is the Haltech at around $2200. If you're going this road I would strongly suggest having a chat to MRC www.mrcdyno.com.au as they supply and tune all of the above and will be able to point you in the right direction for your needs. Turbo Timer - $100-$200? turbo timer $100 You don't need a turbo timer, so cut it from the list if that last $100-$200 is going to hurt your budget. Alternatively consider an alarm with built in turbo timer (like I am running) -you can get a standards approved (ie insurance approved) three point alarm/immobiliser with inbuilt turbo timer and central locking etc supplied and fitted for around $500-$600. Alot more than a turbo timer but perhaps something to consider if you don't already have an alarm fitted Jecs 740cc - $475 Injectors - $500 I don't like the idea of rebuild injectors. I would instead advise Nismo 555 injectors as they will drop straight into your fuel rail and work with your existing wiring loom AND are a top quality injector. I'm sure you will find plenty of examples of happy JECS customers so it's really a quesiton of $$ and priorities. Alloy Toyz 300ZX 3in SS - $320 Alloy Toyz 300ZX 3.0 inch -2.5 inch Stainless Steel Testpipes(resonated) - $360 Dumps - $320 Custom exhaust piping - $500 You are going to need some kind of 3" dump and the Specialtyz (or the AMS copies which are thinner SS and foul on your steering shaft) dump pipes are probably the best bang for buck. The sump pipe/testpipe combo is great value you won't find someone who can make up a custom exhaust for less than that. 3" dump and 3" front tapering to 2.5" cat back is more than ample (Shifter's car making over 400rwkw had 3" dump/front pipes to 2.5" cat back). Depending on what you have in the car now you may wish to allocate some money to 2.5" high flow cats and a UAS 2.5" x pipe/muffler. There goes another $1k Boost controller - $500-$600 EBC $500 If you're wanting to keep things simple have a look at Greddy Profec B Spec II. Not as many bells and whistles as turbosmart e-boost but a good solid boost controller and not as pricey. cams - $1000 2.5" intake piping $500 Both of these things are on the do not need list. If you have the extra $$ and want to throw it at something go for it, but you do not need these items to make the power you're after. For starters you can't get good cams for $1000 anyway, more like $2k. Manual cams are going to be smoother and quieter and you won't need to spend money on the heads. If you start looking at aftermarket cams you are going to need (at least) HD valvesprings which means you're going to need a head service so there goes another $600 or so in labour plus whatever you spend on the parts. Have fun One of my bigger questions are in regards to the direction I should take with manifolds. This is one of the views I received in regards to them... "MSP are too big for your power levels and will just give more lag and power benefit. with manifolds, turbo's work on pressure right, so the higher pressure on one side, the faster it escapes to the low pressure area on the exhaust side of the blower so if you go too big for how much exhaust gas you have available, then the pressure is lower and spool time is slower" Also another question that I pose - Is a selin kit necessary for this kind of build? I've had conflicting views saying that it is a necessity and another saying that it's not. That's just the start of it all, there will be plenty of other questions asked in the not too distant future.[/QUOTE]
OK Think of Nistune as a tuneable factory ECU. MAP sensor is a different way of measuring the "air" in the motor. Whereas the factory ECU measures the air that passes through the AFM (MAF), many aftermarket ECU's measure pressure in the intake manifold (MAP).
Don't take my word for it -but yeah I reckon MSP are a better choice anyway OK first things first. At the moment your fuel rails are single feed. Meaning fuel enters one end of a rail, flows through to the other end, enters the second rail, and flows out the other end of that rail. So you have a single path that the fluid follows. With twin feed your lines split (usually with a T or a Y fitting) so that both rails are fed at the same time (parallell) and then return to a Y fitting. Requires modification of your original rails and running some more lines. Good thing to do when building a big HP motor. Re the injectors, the aftermarket injectors you buy may or may not be compatible with your fuel rails (in terms of bolting in) or wiring loom (injector connector plugs). Many injectors for example are made to be compatible with series 2 and later VG30DETT with different fuel rails and different fuel injector connector plugs. The fittings kits and plugs you see make the injectors compatible with your series 1 rails and plugs. Like I said Nismo manufacture a 555 plug that will fit without the need for a kit and will give you heaps of fuel, good spray pattern (easy to tune) and OEM reliability. But they cost about $1200/set... There ya go then, get the SZ dump pipes with 3"-2.5" test pipes and an exhaust shop will be able to fit your existing cats etc back to it. Minimal stuffing around and you get a nicely made SS system. No experience with the Apexi you'll have to ask around. The Greddy is supposed to be very good with big boost though.
We have discussed alot of this and what rob is saying sounds very similar - In the end you gotta make a choice based on money you have available- your on the right track just make sure or the power band you want though
And there it is in a nutshell As I'm sure you're finding out too Procky the incidentals add up really quick too. Hose, fittings, silicone joiners... all that stuff you don't budget for when writing a shopping list...
