Is this correct? Hi everyone, can someone confirm for me that this info is correct. Amanda and i are having issues with alignment too, and i want to get my facts right before i question the stores alignment. I read the specs in the online manual, which is stated below, and i read it as how the OP has. Front toe is between 0.00 and 2.00mm. Is it really in fact 0.00 and -(neg)2.00? As the shop has the zed set to LHS F Toe 1.0 and RHS F Toe 0.9 Furthermore, what is some recommended alignment figures to minimise tire wear. Ive installed Adj Uppers and Adj Castor rods. I read a thread not long ago with an arrangement of values people used, to which i will recap with but whats tonight's thoughts? We have 235/45 R17 rims/tires. Cheers.
Specs are correct at 0 to 2mm, but what is overlooked is it is a spec for Toe In, not simply Toe. In actual measurement, they are in fact 0 to -2mm toe. Our car is going back for a 3rd time toomorrow to the shop to have it done again, I am not paying for it after having already paid for two. Even after Kylie gave them the specs today, they still got it wrong because "the computer wouldn't let them do it", what that means I don't know. They have now been told to adjust it exactly as told, and f**k what the computer says.
It seems a never ending story. Who would have ever thought it be so difficult for people to do this work properly. As far as i see it, if they cant do it with confidence, dont own the alignment machine. Our results are as follows, with reference to their machines specs. Front left Caster (Min)9.00x (Max)10.50x - Before(9.16x) - After(9.16x) Camber (Min)-1.58 (Max)-0.08x - Before(-1.54) - After(-1.52x) Toe (Min)0.0 (Max)0.9 - Before(2.1) - After(1.0) Front Right Caster (Min)9.00x (Max)10.50x - Before(9.04x) - After(9.04x) Camber (Min)-1.58x (Max)-0.08x - Before(-1.87x) - After(-1.87x) Toe (Min)0.00 (Max)0.9 - Before(2.1) - After(0.9) Rear Left Camber (Min)-1.58x (Max)-0.58x - Before(-1.86x) - After(-1.95x) Toe (Min)0.0 (Max)1.7 - Before(1.7) - After(1.8) Rear Right Camber (Min)-1.58x (Max)-0.58x - Before(-1.97x) - After(-2.07x) Toe (Min)0.0 (Max)1.7 - Before(0.1) - After(2.0) TOTAL TOE Front 1.9 Rear 3.8 CAMBER DIFFERENCE Front 0.35x Rear 0.12x CASTER DIFFERENCE Front 0.12x Rear 0.00x With this in mind and some of it not within the specs of the online manual. Im going to give them a call and arrange them to do it again. Fully. As for us the car has always pulled to the left and has excessive inner wear of the left wheel. This same company looked at it originally and said there was a belt bolt and we needed an eccentric bolt to fix it. However since then ive installed adj uppers and castor rods, to which i havent found any bent bolts... Furthermore, i marked the locking nuts and everything with nail polish so to keep an eye on it all for movement, but to only see they haven't adjusted anything apart from the toe. Hopefully i will resolve this shortly. And rectify the excessive wear on the left.
If your car has all stock suspension arms, the only adjustments that can be made is front toe, rear toe (TT only) and rear camber. Nothing else is adjustable. Edit Oops, you do have adjustable arms
Are you sure? Our na has no adjustment for toe on the rear. Just a standard type link without eccentric bolts where the TT's hicas would be.
on the subframe side they use the eccentric bolt/washer, same as the camber arm bolts. I had to buy new ones from Nissan since my old ones were seized due to rust.
We had adjustable uppers and castor rods installed when that was done. Big shiny bits they didnt even notice. Have a 9am appointment with them so they can fix it. To your best discresion what would be a suitable adjustment to preseve the tires moreso. moreso the front the rear doesnt wear at all lol. has bilstein shocks and some sort of springs, heavy ass duty sway and now as mentioned adj upper and castor.
He's a big evil looking dude at that shop, but he's pretty cool, if you keep civil about it, just explain what you need, and show him the specs and all will be good. I've seen him go rank at a customer that was an arse, it wasn't pretty [TIS]
If you can stay and watch what they do, nothing like the customer being a witness to make sure the job is done right. AND before they touch your car ask when was their alignment equipment last calibrated. A good shop will check the calibration before fitting the alignment equipment to your car
PS While you are there get a complete set of readings, front and rear, for camber castor and toe. All suspension components and settings are inter related. Witha full set of readings we might be able to see where any underlying problems are
Well I went back, and the big dude said that yes the 0 to -2mm setting would give best pefermance but would wear the tyres out really quickly so he set it to +1mm. Anyhow the car still drove like shit, so he checked the brakes and pulled them down and replaced the rotors cause they were crap. Car still drove like shit. So he replaced the camber arms cause they were leaking and crap. Car still drove like shit. so he found the left ball joint was crap, so he replaced that to. Car drove a little better, but still jerks around the road which he said was due to the fact that its a sports car and I have wide tyres (I have stock 225's). I dont want to take it back, but find driving it scary cause it it will jerk around the road at random which I am sure aint right. I need a nap
225's my god, they are massive sports car tires. I found that on the blue zed, the one ive spoken about in this thread, the upper arms and the castor's were giving us slight wobbles in the wheel at mid to high speeds. the castors had newer bushes and seemed good, but the main issue was the front upper camber arms. when i took them off the wheel side, that supports the hub(cant think of the proper term sorry) there was at least 2mm of lateral play in the joint that bolted to the body. since the new adjustable items went on, the wobble has near enough stopped but my pull to the left stayed the same(wheel alignment issue) If your bloke found one worn ball join the opposing joint will be worn too. if not all them on the car. its like the heater hoses in the engine bay, one breaks, you fix another brakes cause of the higher flow/pressure. same story for the balls, if ones worn its going to have an adverse effect on the other. then if your for eg, LHS is all new and tight the RHS are still old and worn, will still get an uneasy feeling. best bet is to go over it all, and replace the joints and as many bushes as you can. sway bar bushes, castor bushes and if your upper arms are shagged, new ones or adjustables. without driving it, we cant be for certain. only you will know whats right and not. the steering on a zed should be firm and true. if your feeling uneasy at the wheel, it needs attention. and take it to a proper steering and suspension place. wheel alignment companies are only so good. see if someone from the forum close to you can take it for a spin and get a second opinion from someone that drives these vehicles. hope some of this ramble helps. you should be enjoying the zed feeling, not the tumbles of a washing machine.:zlove:
I spoke to tyrepower and they basically described how my car would like driving when the alignment was set to +1.6mm for each wheel, and they were spot on. The car is going, once again, for another wheel alignment this afternoon and I wont be leaving unless I see each wheel set between 0 and -2mm.
OK, if you go to Tyrepower Morningside, tell them that the guy with the Yellow Z referred you. (I haven't taken the red one there yet). Their Alignment Machine is only about 12 months old. Once I get my suspension sorted out, I'll be going for my alignment there.
Well the guys at morningside couldnt see me until next week so I went to the slacks creek store and they fixed the issue. Apparently when the other mob put the ball joint in they didnt do it properly, and also when the camber arm work was done everything wasnt tightened as it should have been. Also I found out that after all that work a new wheel alignment wasnt performed. So the car had a toe of 26.5mm on each side and was as loose as all hell. I got tyrepower to ring the original dudes who did the work and got them to agree to pay for the cost of getting my car back to normal. Now the Zed drives like a dream and I am finally happy........until the next thing breaks :bash:
