Engine is finally back in...again. Now scratching the noggin...again. It idles fine when cold, but once warm it starts hunting then stalls. While testing for boost leaks we established that by removing a vaccum hose it actually resulted in the car idling perfectly. Any ideas? Anyone had anything similar?
Check for vacuum leaks Check all vac hoses are secure and in good condition. Check EGR pipes (or blanking plates) are well sealed at plenum etc.
All vac hoses are secure and are new silicone. It only idles normally when one is removed and we give it a vacuum leak. So it needs to more air, we just can't figure out why.
Not necessarily ... Removing vac hose may be simply mask a small vac leak. Check balance pipe and EGR connections to plenum. Do a vacuum test with engine running, if you know how to do it, otherwise get a local mechanic to do so.
We know how to do a vacuum test. The EGR connections are all fine. The balance pipe connections are where we have been creating the leaks.
Hey mate, Im experiencing the same problem, however my car is N/A. I just replaced the crank senor and still experienced the problem, now i have just changed the Fuel filter so I'll see hwo it goes. I also find, it happens in the wet also not sure if maybe that was by co0incidence or what!....But yeh im in the same boat as you.
We've found the problem. I'm running a JWT twin pod set up. It actually has a restrictor in it, and this appears to be the problem, as its restricting air flow too much. We had taken it back to a single pod setup to try and rule out the twin pod set up and ECU. We took a short cut tho and just removed the idle hose, which left the restrictor in the idle air hose, so it was still running rough on single pod, so we thought we had ruled out the twin pod setup as being the cause. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/DUAL POP INSTRUCTIONS.PDF
