Hi all, On Wednesday I parked my TT at home, and about 30 seconds into letting it cool down before turning her off, the idle dropped sharply from 1000rpm (that my tuner insisted was correct) to 600rpm. The idle stayed relatively steady at 600rpm, even after a couple of rev's and a reverse and drive forward, until I turned it off about a minute later. I started her up again yesterday morning (hoping Wednesday was just a random glitch), and straight away the cold start idle went to jumping between 500 and 600rpm. I ran it for a couple of minutes to warm her up and see what would happen. After about five minutes of this low bouncing idle, with a noticeably pronounced miss, she just stalled. I should also mention that when revved, the rpm would rise sluggishly, drop sharply to around 350-400rpm for a about 2 seconds, then rise back up to the roughly 600rpm low idle. In case it's relevant (because I think it might an electrical problem), I run a Haltech E11v2 ECU, and have a Series 2 PTU. Can anyone suggest what might cause this sudden terrible idle and miss? Thanks... Lil' Baz..... :zlove:
Makes sense to me. 1000/6 = 166.6 166.6 * 6 = 1000 166.6 * 5 = 833 166.6 * 4 = 666 166.6 * 3 = 500 (Of course it will be worse than above, but it's a start) Are you sure you're not running on only 3?
Yes. In fact, yesterday we completely replaced the two blue connectors and the yellow connector around the idle air module. We'd hoped that this might help, but it made no difference whatsoever. The injectors are SARD 740cc's that are brand new. They've been in the motor for about 8,000km... What about the unit itself?
So your saying - check your EGR if your following a manual flowchart Originally I wouldve said fuel regulation related but thats not it for sure as it wouldnt stop altogether unless a critical failure occured - which would be obvious But you say its electrical and given that low idling /missing /stopping is part of that. It was easy to see why Vader said check the IAA connection as the next step, however thats been discounted since. The PTU being series 1 wouldve been a surety as the problem is a failed PTU to a tee (everything you say happens with a failed series 1PTU), but that was dismissed on the basis of it being a series 2, however I would keep this in the back of your head for the moment as a possible faulty series 2 ptu but not likely. Given you changed your ECU - check connections to the ECU if thats your relevance as yes it is symptomatic to what is happening as well. In a flowchart of air/fuel/spark you would be likely to be now looking at the crossroad of unsustainable atmostphere - which could only really be caused by exhaust gas to the point of where it cannot combust. So your now pointing at the solenoids /AAIV and the EGR (if you have them) Given it stopped the car - I would head straight to the EGR - Is it stuck open and feeding exhaust to the motor ??? -ie it would be inclined to stay open as you describe on next start up (not random - stuck)too much exhaust gas will lower idle / missfire and stop the engine as the oxygen is being overun. (you should also notice things are hotter as you described by your words "cooling down" as the temps are raised in the chambers techically - it also needs to be checked its not stuck in as well because it would be getting cold air on startup - but your indications say it is stuck open) Get someone to listen or do a air leak test on your EGR valve and solenoid if they havent been removed Regards Linda P.S. I couldve just said that without all the extra crap - but just wanted to explain how I got to that - as I only learnt about all that two weeks ago and thought I might be able to help - whilst I'm waiting for help myself - lol goodluck with the checks
Have you checked the basics? Look for a miss on individual cylinders. On the weekend I came across an engine that suddenly developed rough running and poor idle - it had dropped two spark plugs.
Insure the wires are clipped into the connectors correctly, what you describe is much the same as my problem, when I found one of the wires had came loose and backed out of the connector enough to stop the injector from working, I also have SARD?s with new connectors, worth a look. Eddie
Thanks everyone! Eddie, will have a look at the injector connectors... Misszen, my S2 PTU is mounted behind the kick panel in the passenger footwell and I've already fried a PTU from overheating (oops ), but have since heat shrouded it. Think I'll try swapping out the PTU and see if more work needs to go into that, too... Will also have a looksee at the EGR... ezzupturbo / DinoZ, I'll clean the injectors for good measure, and check the sparkplugs... Vader, thanks for your suggestions, too! I'll check these things out and post up if there's no change... Again, thanks all! Lil' Baz..... :zlove:
