Hi Got some bearings of correct spec and pulled my CAS apart, pretty simple except I have no idea if this peg (red arrow) screws out or needs to be pushed out and what tool to use for this, It has to be removed so the top bearing and disk timing parts can be removed. Here is a pic taken off another web page of a similar cas ignore the yellow arrows, so how do you get that pin/screw out? Any suggestions would be much appreciated, it uses a 2 X #6000 bearings for anyone else who wants to attempt this.
No takers? There doesn't seem to be any Tech articles for this job. I recently tried to replace the bearings in my CAS & stuffed it so I have some advice on how not to go about it, plus a lot of pics of the internals. If no Gurus can help with this one then I'm prepared to post a noob's cautionary tale about my mistakes in order to help kinglover. Caution No. 1 - the bearings in my CAS are different sizes. Front is 6200, rear is 6000. Both are NTN brand with an LU suffix to denote the type of seal used on them.
Thanks for the info, I assumed the front wast the same as the rear, as I cant see the front bearing yet, pretty sure the rod can be pushed out the front bearing once you somehow remove the Mitsubishi marked plastic cover, it's a bastard...... I just ended up resealing and putting back in the car, would be nice to be able to perform a bit of preventative maintenance on it as far as I can see looks like the bearings are the only thing likely to fail.
Use a drift/punch and drive the pin out. Make sure you mark the orientation of the gear onto the shaft though.
OK but posting pics is a WIP, I'm a few days away from launching a new website for my business and I wanted to host pics there. I've looked into Photobucket et al but decided to go the other way, more permanent. Meanwhile here's some off the cuff text, plus I'll email the photos to you. Are both bearings shot, or just the outer one ? If the rearmost bearing is OK then maybe consider leaving it alone. In my case the front bearing only was shot because the plastic cap was loose & letting dust & moisture into the bearing. But of course I elected to change both bearings while I had it apart. Can someone more knowledgeable please advise if the pin which secures the driven socket to the rotor shaft is tapered ? The autopsy of my murdered CAS is not conclusive about the taper as the pin is fairly deformed now. Vernier measurements of the diameters of the pin hole in the rotor are not conclusive. I couldn't pick whether there was a taper on the pin or not before I started so I decided to press the pin out from the side which was slightly recessed using a geared (non hydraulic) press, I had to swing from the handle like a baboon. A second set of hands would have been useful because the rotor fell on the floor & warped the perforated disc, exit one CAS... Caution No. 2 - you will have to damage the black plastic cover in the centre of the front housing in order to press the rotor out, the damage can be minimised by drilling a hole in the centre of it which is small enough to acommodate a pin punch. It can be sealed afterwards with a biro back end cap or similar, keep the hole small enough & you could use a dob of black silicon. EvZ, I could write a coherent Tech article on this but I figured there was already a thread somewhere which my search efforts were not finding. If you can post the pics I email to you then a lot of the process becomes self explanatory. If we still get no Guru response or a link to a Tech article then I'll keep on with coherent step by step instructions but I'll be miffed if some bugger posts a complete guide to CAS bearing replacement straight after I finish the write up. Cheers from Mick.
Normal practice would be to use a straight interferance fit pin there, like is used to retain the speedo drive gear for example, no guarantee though.
