i was just driving home in darkness and all of a sudden my dash went black and only my high beams were working. i checked the fuses and there was a blown 10 amp fuse from the drivers side kick panel marked 'clear lense illumination'. i replaced it with one i rarely use (the rear wiper as its 10 amp) to check if this was the issue and as soon as i switched the headlights on it blew the new fuse. It may be shorting some where but if there may be anything else wrong please don't hesitate to post.
i have just checked the head light globes which i recently did a H3C to some H3 globes and they are not shorting out near the globe. i also recently put in gauge rings and LED globes behind the cluster. but i can't see how that would cause any problems.
Check your rear light bulbs (especially number plate) very common fault when rust/debris earths out a power wire to chassis somewhere or the bulb shorts out internally. If your number plate bulbs r ok, then take all rear light bulbs out, replace the fuse and then put them back one by one until the fuse blows... there's your culprit :thumbsup:
Re: Check your rear light bulbs (especially number plate) thanks. i'll have a look at the rear lights.
Mine have been replaced with a 20A fuse !!??? I've been having some probs with my car, just got it from a dealer/importer, This was one of them. I was driving along one night and 2 mins later i noticed the highbeam light was on, and the dash was dark. Luckily I had been reading about this symptom earlier that day. And knew it was the clearance lamp fuse, So i went to the servo and got another 10A fuse, but it blew straight away. When i took the car back to the dealer, the mechanic said 10A was too low and he chucked in a 20A fuse. And it's been working fine. They replaced the fog lights b4 the fuse blew. Is it possible they installed some high power fog lights? and that's why it needs a 20A fuse? Or is there something wrong with the electrics of my car, and the 20A fuse is a quick fix with dire consequences?
The fuse which blows and causes the high beams only to work also supplies the dimmer relay (hence the high beams only working), clearance, license tail and illumination lamps. It will be a green wire with red stripe running from the lighting switch to the front combination lamps, rear number plate lamps, and also the stop and tail lamp sensor. Spacefrog, in your case, I'll bet you have a problem with your fog lamps, mot probably corrosion in the lamp or a squashed green/red wire when the lamps were fitted. If the current draw is enough to blow a 20 amp fuse, it's not just because of any higher power fog lights. I'd say fog lamp installation, number plate light corrosion or fault, and tail lights or tail light sensor box problem, in that order of probability. DBcar, I agree with Zed4life - most probably rear number plate lights or rear illumination lights. If the problem occured immediately after you fitted the LED dash globes, then maybe you have squashed a night illumination light wire when refitting the dash.
Dave, thanks for agreeing with me but fact is I recall you were the one who helped me with this problem when I had it on my zed!!!:thumbsup: Cheerz
Re: Dave, thanks for agreeing with me but fact is I recall you were Valid point on an earlier post, When I installed fog lights and upped the wattage from 35w to 55w, the 10A fuse could not handle the pace, and I had to up it to 15A.
hey, greg ... see you have been photochopping, recently ...????!!!!! :LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::thumbsup::thumbsup::wacko::wacko:
auto electrician i could not find the culprit but the number plate conections are rusted. i took it to the auto elec and he said it was the dimmer switch for the dash. he bypassed the switch and no short anymore. i still don't understand how as i never use it.
