Hey guys, I know some of you are awake at this time lol but I'm about to head off.. hope I get some answers tomorrow or something from some Z guru! -When I start up the car I get the [POWER] light flash like 10 times. -Driving when it's cold, it drives good - no issues at all. -When the car is warmed up to normal temperature, that's when problems start to happen.. The car will idle rough and usually idles at around 500rpm, sometimes looks like the car will cut out (saw the dash lights flicker). Not only that, but cruising at 2,000rpm makes the whole car RUMBLE and it feels like.. driving on a really bumpy road, everything just shakes. But driving pass 2,000rpm the car runs better (still not as good) And after a while, once it's warm it runs worse. When taking off, it will take about 3-5 seconds to really 'take off' and it feels like a huge loss of power, struggles to go and when it does there's alot of hesitation and stutter inbetween. Last issue is random... when the car isn't moving, it makes a random noise like it's coming from under the car directly, I feel it sometimes. It sounds as if someone is kicking my exhaust Sorry for the long post just wanted to give you guys a good idea in detail what's going on. The car is a TT was NA. Thanks guys for any help! -YakuzaMoon
i am no expert but i thought i would give you some idea as everyone else is asleep. could possibly be your gearbox main or input shaft good when oil is cold but as warms up and oil thins becomes looser and noisier.power drop if box has really shit itself.power light flashing is gearbox problem but dont know code. smoothing off after 2000rpm still gearbox as finds a sweet rpm spot just like wheel balance issues good at 80km and shit everywhere else. has your box run out of oil or been noisy for a while?cant be diff as happening when car is stationary cant be output from gearbox for same reason.is your box getting hot (feel carpet around console)
Your TT conversion is very recent yeah? The problems you're having, was there any hint of them before the surgery?
Yeah I felt it does get abit hot around the gear box area, like inside near console and the carpet does get very warm, thought it was just the hot weather lol will have to get the gearbox checked out.. thanks alot for that I will check on that. Oh and yeah the TT conversion is very recent - the car was damaged at the rear when I bought it, engine was fine and still is did 100k service on it and everything and runs great when cold. I trusted the guy when he said his auto box never missed a beat and is perfect, trusted cos he was a member on this forum. I will have to check out the gearbox that sounds like the issue. Thanks guys! Will let you know how it goes and what the issue was. -YakuzaMoon
Rumble and vibration: Centre bearing http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.420 Rough idle: IACV/TPS/AAC/CAS http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.335 Power light: replace "black box" in drivers side rear quarter Hesitation: Clean throttle bodies, clean IACV, clean all electrical connectors. Injector clean. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.340 Cutting out: check CAS and AFM plugs http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.434 Random noise: Check centre bearing support bracket is tight The centre bearing will cost around $80. The black box something like $30 from somebody wrecking a zed (contact ChilledPain). The rest is just time/labour. Edit: some helpful links added. Replace IAA: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.337
Daayyuum man thats pretty epic help - looks like I'll be busy pin pointing this issue lol Thanks for that man! Will let you know how it turns out! -YakuzaMoon
Epic hellp for epic post. That's a huge list of problems for just one zed . Start with cleaning pins. Get yourself some electrical contact cleaner (Bunnings Too Shop about $10 a can). Whist you are in there, get some needle files. Don't forget to spread the pins a litle when you are done. It will help ensure contact between pins and plug. I hope you fix the problems. Oh yer - if you get vibration at about 80 Km/H and it then kind of gets better except not fully, replace your tension rods or at least the bushings in your tension rods.
Clean the injector connectors and fit a s2 ptu if it doesn't have one yet. Power light is showing an auto trans fault, either run through the diagnostics in the tech section or plug in a consult cable and see what is up.
I bought a used Auto for my old NA back in 2004 from a company that did 240z rebuilds. It was in a wreck he had and paid to get him to install it for me. It sounded a lot like your car seems to. He was stumped. Ended up giving my cash back. Took it to a mates factory in Bayswater and pulled the box on my own. Removed the pan and filter and cleaned it. Swapped out the filter and GOT A REBUILT TORQUE CONVERTER. Put it all back together and problem was gone. In fact the box was 100% BUT the torque converter was crap. Never buy a used Auto and use the old torque converter. For $380 it isnt worth it. Bring the car over the Berwick one night this week and let me have a look at it.
