Time for new clutch. Decided to go for either full face or 6 puck but like to know opinions if anyone has used any of the clutch below and which will be better from daily drive. I am planning to machine stock flywheel. Southbend 300ZX DXD Clutch - FE Stage 5 SS Twin Turbo(690 TQ Cap) http://www.conceptzperformance.com/...&Car_Type=300&UID=20110625204915124.168.233.8 Southbend 300ZX DXD Clutch - Puck Stage 5 SS Twin Turbo(725 TQ Cap) http://www.conceptzperformance.com/...&Car_Type=300&UID=20110625204915124.168.233.8
No six button will be good for daily driving. Nismo coppermix is supposed to be very smooth and good for a daily that has some grunt. I have found my Jim berry six button a big improvement in terms of driveability compared to my last clutch.8
Just checked the price for Nismo coppermix and it is 2k. can't afford right now. I will get a rebuild kit for os giken twin plate later. but now I need to find something which is good for 450hp mark. budget 650-700.
450 at the tyres can be done with a Exedy sports tuff bought locally. or for a bit more an exedy cushion button pm if u are interested in pricing
Both of those clutches are used widely by the ttnet crew with good results. Choose a 6 puck clutch if you plan to do any drag racing, otherwise choose the full face. #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #6, etc. I used a 6 puck RPS daily in peak hour for a while and thought it was great. Not saying it is the norm but just putting it out there.
i've got an Extreme 6 puck clutch and pressure plate and its actually a breeze to live with. its nearly as soft on the pedal as a standard clutch and it never slips. kicks ass over the brass buttons i've had before. i think i paid around a grand for the pressure plate and clutch combo.
hey mate i use to run an excedy 6 puck brass button and it was ok for daily driving but only lasted 15,000kms. replaced it with Nismo Gmax twin plate its the best thing i ever did. If you want something comfortable for daily driving get a full face organic clutch that is rated above your power output.
Full face Personally I would use a full face clutch plate, some of the puck style plates can be a bit of a handful if this is a daily driver. I have built and fitted numerous clutches for different applications, and always recommended full face for anything other than a drag/race car. If you want some awesome advice, call John at Western Clutch Service Unit 9/ 130 Forrester Rd ST MARYS NSW 2760 (02) 9623 1222 He has been building clutches for over 30 years and really knows his stuff. He may also be competitive in pricing.
I've got one of these - very happy with it, its got plenty of bite (although I'm only somewhere roudn the 300-320rwhp at the moment) but is fairly smooth. Lighter than the UAS full face that was in the car when I bought it too.
How much boost you are running? If you don't mind asking. Any chatter when you take off? Decided to go for exact same as yours.
Running 16psi. I do get a bit of chatter sometimes - although i'm chasing some weird play in the rear end somewhere, so I'm not sure how much is the clutch, and how much is the worn whatever in the rear end.....
Shipping a clutch from the USA mustn't be cheap surely, Jim Berry would make something better for a comparative price all told I'm sure...
I'm running one like that too, at 4400lbs it's literally double the (bench tested while I was at the workshop) clamp load of my last six button clutch AND smoother too.
Yeah, I haven't driven the car yet but Jim tells me to expect around 15-20% heavier pedal that stock which is fine by me seeing as the OEM clutch is spongy as hell. But I'm expecting it to grab like a sumb!tch though... I had to get my factory flywheel machined, re-drilled and dowel pins relocated to take the 9 bolt pressure plate too which upped the cost a bit.
Just placed the order with Coz for Southbend 300ZX DXD Clutch - FE-X Stage 6 SS Twin Turbo(850 TQ Cap).. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/...Car_Type=300&UID=20110627014720202.89.160.202 However stock flywheel need to be modified. As per instruction from Coz.. The Clutch uses a 350Z pressure plate, you will be able to use one of holes as a starting point, the other 2 will need to be drilled. No bolts are included, but you can use the stock bolts. Can anyone explain a bit more if I need to use helicoil or tap thread? I am planning to take stock flywheel and clutch to a shop for machine job. However it would be nice to know if someone has done it before.
Flywheel can be redrilled and tapped. No need for helicoils as it is cast iron. I would definately have the clutch/fly checked for balance after doing so.
I'd just go for the stage 5 FE. With the power you were talking about you won't be very close to the torque cap listed. Any reason you went to the FE-X? Just wanted headroom? Torque of stock through sport 700 cars here:
