Hi guys. Sorry for the general question. I guess I'll start off with what I have. 1991 TT 2+0 with manual conversion. I installed a lightened chrome molly flywheel with a ceramic button clutch + short shifter. It also has a full stainless exhaust. 2.5" I think? I'm about to fit larger corner intercoolers and a lightweight underdrive crank pully. Just today I installed new ford spark plugs, flushed the engine with diesel + run in oil, refilled with semi synthetic + filter. Also did the trans and diff oil too. Lots of fine filings on gearbox magnet and found a few largish chunks on the diff magnet. I've never heard it clunk before. My brother suspects previous owner was doing "drive dumps" on the auto? So tomorrow I hope to finish pulling the plenum and timing belt. I also hope to delete the EGR and air injection system? I'm waiting on new lifters to come from USA then I will replace crank and cam seals too. New timing belt and water pump, thermostat, new metal coolant pipes as well. Oh I also have a new radiator with alum tanks. Fuel system and turbos are stock... so I was just wondering about upgrading the turbos/ecu/boost controller? I'm not really sure whats out there or what would go well with what I already have. Anything else that I should delete when I rip the plenum off? There is just way too many tubes everywhere its a nightmare. So I'd be happy to get more room and make pulling the plenum easier if I have to do it again in the future. Looking forward to suggestions. Plenum is almost off as of tonight.
Waz: I didn't even know they made plugs either as well! Interesting eh! Rob: I noticed the turbo diaphragms are accessible from the underside of the car. Do you say this for a specific reason? To be honest, I have never actually taken a good look at the turbos, so I'm not really sure. Don't know if its crazy or not but can you get an ecu with a built in boost controller? For factory turbos, is a bleed valve all thats really needed? I haven't really decided which way to go with electronic vs bleed valve. What would you recommend? Thanks for the replies *edit* Oh yeah, I also have installed an alum tailshaft from shaft masters.
Not sure actually. A local nissan tuner told me they were good so I picked them up. They sure are better than what I pulled out! I was also wondering - injectors? I noticed the connectors were crusty as! Not to mention were a pain in the rear to get off. I guess would depend on turbo/ecu/boost set up no?
ZX299 was offering various connectors. Check the beginning of his group buy thread. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1432945&postcount=73 Carcraze http://www.carcraze.com.au/z32-300zx-oem-style-2-pin-injector-connector-x-6-s or Jordz might be offering something. http://www.z32parts.com.au/products or this other guy ->>http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1430313&postcount=74 All mine have been swapped over for these quick release connectors. (ZX299 was selling them in his group buy)
It all depends on your goals. I always start with what you're doing; intercoolers and exhaust, decent sercice And replace any busted connectors most commonly the injectors and coilpacks. I've still got a couple of sets of the quick release injector connectors $25 posted if you're interested.
How far you wanna go? You mentioned turbos? Gotta pull the motor to fit these. injectors You menionted too. Work out if you want these becore you redo the plugs. If you wanna run high ethanol Get something big. ( and supports) Ecu get a nistune.
Did I tell you about those plugs? They're a good choice; denso brand, double iridium, tight gap etc and cheap. I say it's a good chance to fit boost controller because you have easy access to the wastegate lines and the opportunity to completely remove your factory boost control solenoids. Basically you can do a tidier, more efficient install. Turbosmart boost T would be my choice in your situation. I've fit a few now & they're easy to install, easy to tune, and they work really well. If you're interested I've got a few controllers here http://www.rgsperformance.com/product-category/turbo/ as well as vacc line etc to make for easy install.
Toss the oem injectors...... they'll have seen better days, and will not be up to the job when you wind up the boost. Also, they don't seem to like ethanol, which is being blended into all petrol these days. Perfect opportunity to do the injectors now while you have the plenum off....... preventative maintenance is the name of the game with a zed .
**Edit** zx299 Rob, Madcow, David: Thanks for the input I guess getting something to support e85 can help make more power? I hear its pretty corrosive though to the likes of valve seats and piston crowns... or maybe I'm thinking of race gas/avgas? ** :S *Edit* East Coast: Not sure on the details of how he came across these plugs. Maybe you know John from "Unique Auto Sports"? He practically knows me by first name basis as I've been there so many times. He's been pretty helpful though for this never ending project haha. I trust he knows his Zeds. * I finally ripped that sucker out. Massive prick of a job. Just about every hose was stuck, hose clamps always facing the wrong way and electrical connectors so brittle they just crumble to the touch. Ended up just cutting half the hoses. I'm really hoping most of them can be deleted some how. I'll just have to replace the rest. Just wondering... since I have most of the auxiliary crap disconnected, is it much easier to get the engine out? I'd want to keep the transmission in, or does that have to come out as well? Its a pain getting to the top bell housing bolts but its pretty clean under there now plus I know what tools work best in that position. If its not too hard to get the engine out, I might as well get new turbos for it. I'm not really after huge power, more after better efficiency and extra pep. I don't have the budget to spend on crank/rods/pistons/head work etc. Actually I bought a brand new engine crane + balancer thing and 2x 540kg engine stands (currently used for building some motorcycle engines at the moment) I originally wanted to paint the engine bay to match the exterior but I grew to accept that it looks like crap as I just need to get this thing running... but if its not much extra effort to get the engine out, I guess I may as well. Since this is would be the first engine pull I have ever done on a car, I'd really appreciate it if some one local could donate some time to watch over and point/tell me the easier way to do this... and maybe have a laugh at my expense The thing is its been sitting in my driveway for almost 3 years. GF wants to move in from over seas not to mention the stress its put on my family. So I desperately need to get this running reliably asap while doing as much as I can while I have it apart. As this will be the last chance I have to do any more major mechanical work on this car where I currently live.
Quick question... 18psi on stock turbos with nistune + fuel pump. 240kw best case scenario. I've read that the turbos will rapidly turn into locked up paper weights. If I was to go this route, what would be the ideal replacement injector that isn't scared of a little ethanol? Not so sure if its worth going for e85 :/ Turbo upgrades just get way too expensive for diminishing returns... Perhaps there is something I am overlooking?
Stock fuel pump is fine. Good supporting mods, 15PSI and a good tune would reach around 240rwkw or so. 18PSI is not a good idea on 98octane fuel
SRB: Thanks for the input. What amount of boost can you get on just 98 fuel? Would 18psi be in the realm of e85 fuel? If not, then how much is possible on stock turbos on e85? it has a ron of 108 right? I was reading this just before: http://forums.nicoclub.com/18-psi-on-stock-turbo-s-t560933.html
Do yourself a favour and put rags in every hole facing up on the motor just in case something gets dropped while it's apart
14psi will see 240rwkw on a good motor..... Any more on stock turbos and you are only blowing hot air, and looking for trouble. Decent suspension, sticky tyres, larger injectors (550's are plenty) and an EBC (running 14psi on 98) will have your zed running like a scalded cat
Highflowed turbos or some ball bearing GT25**r turbos will see more power for the same boost and flow better up to redline if you're considering that route, looking at between $1k and $3k on top of the rest of your build though.
With a good tune and an FPR, 17PSI would be a good bet but thats on the limit. E85 allows 24+ but it drops back to 17 by redline anyway due to compressor limitations. Some zeds can get to that, others have trouble going over 13-14PSI due to the gates blowing open due to backpressure in the turbine housings.
