Electronic Boost Controller location and vacuum hose lengths

When setting up an EBC are there any ideal locations for the solenoid? I remember reading something like the vacuum hose should be as short as possible between the solenoid and the manifold, or the solenoid and the controller but I can't remember which or where I read it. Does anyone have any input on this?

Secondly, depending on the answer to the question above im trying to work out how much 4mm and 6mm hose I need. I am running the stock recirc valves, turbos and wastegates with an aftermarket EBC.

Thirdly, with regard to 'T-ing' of vacuum line for use by different items such as multiple boost gauges and boost controllers etc is there any problem with accuracy running several items from one feed inside the cabin?

Cheerz guys

 

Solenoid I put under the front nose panel . Run roughly 1.5 meters equal lengths of hose from the wastegate actuators up along the side of the intake pipes through the light cutouts or next to it and into a T piece , then single into the solenoid .

Run equal lenghts of hose from the boost pipes to to a T piece next to the other you put in inder the nose panel , then into the solenoid .

The rest is straight forward .

 

Thanks that answers the question. I think im going to stick my solenoid under the dash as the cables to the controller won't reach that far and I don't want it visible in the bay.

Do you see any reason why I can't run a single 4mm vac line to the cabin to feed the controller and 2 boost gauges?

 

Solenoid under the dash

Not a good idea, the noise will drive you insane.
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy314/grcz32/P9300088.jpg

 

Lol cheers for the heads up before I did it. I did consider putting it in the wing but I have one of the old Greddy Profec B's and the solenoid is a chunky beast and might be to big. I will have to get a wing out of storage and have a look at the weekend.

Thanks

 

I was concerned about this, but ended up running my MAP sensor, boost gauge and Profec off of one line without issue.

 

I unbolted the stock boost thing from the firewall right infront of the driver, engine bay side. Then bolted that further down where the AIV used to bolt up. Then used the stock boost gauge things hole in the firewall to bolt up the EBC solenoid. See it on the back left? right behind the mod plate. EDIT: It's technically on the side of the engine bay.

 

I mounted mine off a bracket I fabbed up- it sits on the side of the strut tower, mounted thru the same hole as the throttle cable support bracket.
Easy enough to mount wires back thru the same location as mclovin'

 

Any static/closed kind of accessories are fine to plumb up off a single line. The actual mass of air moving is insignificant and will only result in minor delaying.

However, running a MAP sensor off a shared line is not such a wonderful thing as the MAP sensors response time can be significantly increased.
Rarely does it actually amount to a problem but in particularly bad cases with an especially "slow" MAP sensor can result in hesitations when stabbing the throttle down low.
Never share a MAP sensor line with something like a boost MAC valve at the end of the line which can amount to a pressure bleed/limiter at the end of the vac line.

E

 

Great info guys thanks alot

Mclovin, the boost thing you refer to is that simply to control the stock gauge in the speedo?

 

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind when I re plumb my lines in the next upcoming bay work. Have you seen this make a noticeable difference in real life?

 

Only when running a bleed valve off the end of the sense hose.
This can result in dropping off sense line pressure during boost fooling the ECU into thinking thew engine is running lower boost that it actually is...not good.

The other things are more difficult to show without datalogging which can quite clearly show whats going on with a delay in the response of the MAP sensor compared to throttle body opening.
It results in momentary enleanment as the inlet pressure suddenly drops/rises but the MAP sensor cannot follow the pressure change quickly enough and the ecu invokes accelleration enrichment and this can amount to several hundred milliseconds.
This delayed response time is considered normal with MAP sensors due to their own internal sense line dampening restrictor but can easily be made worse with a badly thought out sense line setup.
With a rough tune, its usually not noticeable but in a finely tuned economy setup can result in annoying hestitations from "laggy" fuel and ignition corrections.

If the aftermarket ECU is a good one, there are provisions in place where the ECU "predicts" manifold vac based on throttle position/movement and makes corrections accordingly for almost seamless throttle response.

Just dont share a MAP line with a bleed type of valve!!! Think how your fuel system pressure is regulated!!!

E

 

Mounted solinoid on the firewall between the battery and engine. Ran a vacuum line to the centre back of engine ,used a Y connection [not a tee] then ran 2 equal length lines down to the turbos.This keeps the length of the signal pressure lines short.Works spot on.

 

Yes. Mine is still there I just lowered it by bolting it to the now defunct AIV bracket and used the stock mounting for the control box for the speedo boost gauge (since it's up night and high) to bolt the EBC solenoid to the engine bay side wall.

From there I ran one length to the back of the plenum then T'pieced it to equal lengths to the waste gate actuators. Boost feed line goes from drivers side turbo (the usual spot right beside the radiator) then I plugged up the passengers side.

I must have been running it this way for at least two years with zero problems.