DSE Kit K3237 Digital Panel Display for Coolant Temp Indication

I know that I am not the first member to mention this kit for use as a coolant temperature display in digital form but I thought I'd pass-on my experience at building this kit.

Firstly it cost $59.88 and as an experienced kit builder I would put this in the reasonably difficult catagory. It comprises a large number of very small components mounted on two PCB's that are sandwiched together. Unfortunately, the instructions are almost useless particularly when it comes to calibrating the f%^king thing. Also, you will need to buy a 330 ohm (0.5 watt) resistor due to the voltage range that is emitted from the ECU temp sender. The resistor cost about 5 cents (this could have been included in the kit but was not!).

Fortunately, I have the laboritory quality soldering power supply and a high quality soldering station complete with all the special tools used to position the components onto the boards. However, took me about 2.5 hours for assembly due to my very poor eyesight and about another 2 hours to figure out how to calibrate it due to the authors shithouse instructions. Ended up playing with it until I figured out the correct sequence.

Finally, it actually does work! Shows temperature readings from 25 to 105 and the alarm came-on at 102 (all values are programmable). Used Datascan and the kit unit is accurate.

Just need to find a place on the dash to fit it and then splice into the wiring (either at the ECU or at the temp sender)

I will bring it to the next Canberra tech day (on Sat 11 March).

Cheers

PS: Calibration figures if using a bench power supply are 3.37V/24C and 1.15V/83C is sufficient.

 

Great stuff John :thumbsup:

was thinking about getting this kit, but kept convicing myself not to for some reason.

If I can find a nice place to fit the display I may get one.

 

any chance of a pic ..????

 

cool

another one.. and an experienced kit builder to boot.

Where do you have the 330 ohm resistor? in R2? what was happening without it? We interpreted the vague instructions as being that without R1, R2 and R3 you'd have a range of .5 to 4.5 volts and would be unlikely to reach those limits?

I'm still having probs with mine, I think it may be due to having a short when I put it in the first time..

Everything actually seems fine except I just can't calibrate the low temp, if I set it via the sensor to say 20 degrees while engine is cold then switch back to normal mode, it'll display like 500 degrees. Sooo I'm in the process of testing and replacing most the components.. and it'll probably end up being IC1 in the end, can't really replace that easy.

BTW, if you want slightly better accuracy.. .85 volts = 97 degrees (as found on the TWD install page)

 

you've got a manual..

you can put it where I did. :thumbsup:

 

I'm glad

that you said it was reasonably difficult.. being my first kit, I thought damn, this electronics stuff is hard work!

Maybe I'll try another some day.

 

Finally!!!!! i have found the guys who designed R2D2 !!

I admire your abilities! just out of interest whats the most complex thing some of you guys have built?

 

pfft R2D2

I'm the one that said screw it, stuff a midget in there instead.

 

More info..>>

Hi Mike,

My setup is as follows:

R1=330 ohm and is soldered onto the top circuit board next to 3.3k ohm resistor

R2=omitted

R3=1 Mohm and is soldered onto the top circuit board

R4 and R5 are omitted

R6 is included

VR1 is turned fully clockwise
VR2 is turned fully anti-clockwise
VR3 is about the mid point

I have used an 8-pin socket for IC2 (I always use a socket for chips)

This setup anables a sensor voltage range of 0 to 3.4 volts which is the appropriate range for a Z32 sensor (0 volts is about 120C and 3.4 volts is about 20C).

I will add some simply available components so that the alarm output will send both an audable alarm and also energise a relay to tutn on the electric fan.

Hope this helps

Cheers

PS: When I do some more testing with Datascan I will post more accurate values for calibrating the unit so other members need not waste hours working out these same values.

 

Yep, I love what you've done with yours

it looks standard, which is what I want.

Only problem is I have an airbag steering wheel which blocks my view of those lights (both sides). That's probably why Nissan moved the instruments lights from there onto the main instrument cluster in the later models.

 

.89v = 95 degC

 

oops, yeah.. .85 for 97

 

mmm

I might try that later.. like when it isn't 50 degrees in the garage. I still think mine may have a dodgey component rather than wrongly configured as I have tried other set ups in the past, ie. ones that worked for Dominik, but I guess we'll see.

 

yeah sounds cool, a pic would be good, nice work

 

A complete how to tech article would be the go....

share the knowledge dude:thumbsup:

 

I think Z-Ster you need to re-write that last sentence. It should

read:

"If I can find a nice place to fit the display I may get two, one for me and one for my beloved old school teacher, or else my Year 11 class photo may suddenly appear showing a very young John!" :LOL:
cheers
Geoff

 

Good one Geoff :LOL::LOL::LOL:

No offense intended John. I read your post without drawing Geoff's conclusion, but since he has: :LOL::LOL::LOL:

Cheers,

Peter

 

I don't think there's much to tell

basically you follow Dick Smith's instructions on how to put it together.. then just connect it up as you do in the TWD install guide. You'll know what Zcar91 and I are refering to with these extra details when you build it.

A pic posted earlier: These 2 boards are stacked on top of each other and put into a pretty standard ugly grey plastic case which I would probably paint satin black if I were to have it on display, the plate to the top right goes on top. I dunno how it would look as it comes standard, maybe Zcar91 could take a pic of it installed some day since Dominik doesn't actually have a Z and my set up is different.

 

some questions john???

now that you have done it, would you consider building some for other members at a price?? or not a chance? :LOL: :LOL:

Cheers

 

More info..>>

Hi Mike,

Goods pics and a pretty good effort for a first time at kit building (although I would love to see a pic of the soldering under the boards...LOL). Anyway, I strongly recommend that you also include R1 and R6 to enable calibration to be done and then your finished.

Cheers and good luck

PS: It also helps to include LDR1 to help dim the display.