Drivers Side Window Issues

So i'm having issues with my drivers side window. Passenger side works perfectly fine. Checked my switch, it works. Have a known working spare anyways. That's not my issue.

The window amplifier box was my next port of call, tested both switches with a known working unit, still no luck.

when i press the switch i can hear the relays in the amplifier box click, but no noise from the regulator. The window is stuck UP. Meaning the door card is near impossible to get off sadly.

Is there anything else i should check before asuming window regulator considering the car has 112,000km on it and i very much doubt the regulator is faulty. Is there a way to hardwire the regulator to the battery and bypass the amplifier for testing purposes?

Thanks

 

Hi, you do not have to take off the hole door card the regulator is bottom right of the door, if the seat belt is on the door take out the bolt that holds it in place on the bottom of door, then 3 screws near the latch and 2 on the hinge side of the door pull door card off the bottom and look in you will see it, pull out plug put in new regulator, window should then come down if it is the regulator. Hope this helps.

 

Car is 25 years old or so, thing will go wrong I know.

 

I should have mentioned its a 92, it has pillar mounted seatbelts.

If buy regulator you mean the little black box, thats the amplifier box. Regulator is another word for window motor. I don't see how plugging one in outside the car would make the window go down. It might give me the answer to the problem, but it would involve spending a bunch of money on another regulator first.

 

Yep my bad, I was referring to the black box, still can take down the window, can tell you the steps for that as well, to take off door card completely but for some it's to hard and fiddley. To continue you unplug regulator from door little black zip tie take out the 3-4 10mm bolts in centre of door ( it has been awhile there may be more ) the regulator and glass will drop down and you can get to the screw in the top of the door.

 

Sound like exactly the same problem my car has with 155k on the clocks.
In my case a had a fault amplifier box and a faulty regulator.

I tried retapping the amplifier box (going over the pcb dry joints) and then bought a second regulator / rail of eBay.

still had no luck, had to buy a new amplifier box to sort it.

so most likely it is the regulator if the amplifier is known to be working. you could place a multi meter in-between the amplifier and regulator and check the voltages (should be 12v I think)

other wise you could feed 12 direct to the window regulator I don't think there is much else going on other than the switch or faulty wiring / connectors.

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread but instead of starting a new one I thought I'd just add to this one. I'm having the same issue and exactly the same symptoms.

Drivers window is stuck in the up position, when I push the buttons I can hear clicks coming from the door panel. Another member on this forum tried connecting a different amp box but that also didn't work.

Mine is a 94' Aus delivered Z. With the window stuck in the up position I've been told that there is no other option than to cut through the plastic on the inside drivers side door to get to the bolt that holds the trim which would otherwise be accessed from the outside when the window is down?

 

You'll probably find, that a little bit of solder has broken away from the circuit board inside amp box. PM 90TTZ ( Karl ) and ask him about it, as i was having issues with mine not wanting to go up or down except on the odd occasion , after awhile it wouldn't do anything, and when i was over at Karl's getting something else looked at , he was able to fix that problem and now a smooth working window.

 

The only reason why I've eliminated the amp box being the issue is because i've already tried using a different amp box.

Also, when the problem initially occurred and I tried playing with the switches, there was a noticeable grinding noise which suggests it's something to do with the gears?

So basically I want to know what option do I have to try and get the door panel off when the window is stuck in the up position, will I have to cut through the plastic to access the screw and grind it off and then put a replacement plastic pillar or is there another trick?

 

All the mechanicals for the door are behind the door card, no need to replace pillars. Possibly the other amp was faulty as well, the grinding noise could be worn bushes on the glass frame arms and just sticking gotta remember there is nearly 20 years of crap built up. And probably easier to just see if someone has the innards of the door laying around.

 

If it turns out to be the motor gone & you don't want to wreck the top part of your door card, just smash the glass - I've got a few complete driver's doors so definitely whatever needs replacing

 

I believe his motor is the issue, as far as i onow there is no way to take the door card off with taking the pillar trim off as well. As the window is blocking the upper mounting screw i see no other way other then to tear/ the trim off its mount.

 

If you choose to tear the door card off (instead of just breaking the window for the sake of not damaging your door card), here is the fastener you'll rip off...



This fastener not only keeps the top corner of the door card tightly in place, it's also the main fastening point for the upper door finisher. You'll never manage to reliably re-secure this bracket back onto the door card - so you'll end up with a loose upper door finisher & a loose & rubbing door card... Basically it's either break the window which is easy & cheap to replace or stuff your door card which can be hard to find in good condition now - especially the less-common belt-on-pillar type that you have.

 

If you are going to get rough with it, I would try pulling the bottom of the pillar trim out of its bottom clips with the top screw in, you might be able to squeeze in and get the two screw/bolts that hold the card on, the ones CARZ pictured.

Or even drill a couple of holes to get to them and then recover the pillar trim.