Hi everyone, This has been an ongoing problem over the last couple of months. I'd have to play around with the controls for a while to get the window open or closed and always have to close the window before tuning the car off as the alarm was not closing the window. Yesterday it has stopped working all together... thankfully it is in the closed position! Passenger window works fine and closes once alarm is armed. Any ideas? Thanks ChantiZ
Can you hear the mechanism whining when you hold the button down? If so there the teeth are likely stripped on the cog that turns to move the window up/down. If you hear nothing at all it'd be a connection issue with the controls themselves. You'll have to take the door skin off to have a closer look.
I had same problem Had same problem drivers side window (no issue with passengers window just drivers side?)(and In Tassie with all the rain - it was annoying) Windows would work intermittently over best part of 4-5 months, some times by jiggling the window switch would help, some days not, then out of no where it would work again?? Hence, I thought issue with switch. So replaced switch - still intermittent. Thus, thought motor so replaced window motor - still intermittent. The fix: lastly a forum member suggested known issues with "Elect window transistor" replaced that (purchased off Ebay ) and BINGO... no more intermittent window operation issues. Replace electric windows transistor (Smallish black box with a loom connector) 15mins work Prob??? If Window is UP will be very hard to get at small screw inside window trim to take trim off.. best of luck Pete PS: if you want to see what it looks like my "old non working one" is for sale in the Z - Related for sale section. Only reason it's for sale is if someone is good with soldering they might be able to repair it, as I believe they are repairable but Not 100% sure. I'm rubbish with soldering hence, bought 2nd hand one
There is no noise at all. We checked the connections and everything seems to be fine. Thinking the motor will need to be replaced. Has anyone done this? If so where did you source the part and who did the job?
I have motor for sale in "for sale section - Z related" - BUT! Although, I have a motor for sale... I still think it's to do with your "Windows transistor box" However, I have a motor for sale cheap (forget which side it suits though). Cheers Pete
It is only the drivers side which isn't working. The passenger window works from both the drivers and passengers switch. Does the transistor affect both windows?
Exactly same problem as you Yes...ONLY my drivers side did not work... Passengers side worked great from passengers switch and drivers switch...even when drivers window switch did not work (passengers still worked off drivers main window switch board)! Hence, I'm thinking you have the exact symptoms as my intermittent windows problem. I'm not an expert on the workings of the transistor, but it certainly indicates that it affects the drivers window only. (It's located inside the drivers door trim?) Cheers Pete
Thanks for this, I experienced the same problem today and I was wondering where/how to search for this part online? I tried ebay but everything transistor related surfaced the engine PTU instead. Cheers.
You don't need to replace this part. Take it out and pry the cover from it. Have a look at the soldered circuits and you will see 1 or more soldered joints that have let go. Touch these with a soldering iron to re-seat the joint and all will be well. I've had to fix about three of these just in the last six months alone!
This black box (window amplifier) is the culprit. Open it, attack it with a soldering iron and plenty of solder. Mine was intermittently failing but when I opened it, I could NOT see dry solder joints. They all looked fine so I thought the problem was elsewhere. Eventually a fellow member told me even if the joints look fine physically, it could still be dodgy so I did as suggested, resoldered every single joint and now it works fine. If you insist on buying one, careful as the ebay ones are usually LHD so not sure how compatible it is with our RHD cars.
Thanks for the replies and suggestions 90TTZ and MikeZ32. Okay I'll have a look. I'm curious - when I push the button I can hear a relay but obviously no power window - does the transistor control the activation of the power window? Reason I'm asking is because I'm now wondering whether it is infact the motor because I can hear a 'relay switch' noise when I push the switch?
This is what confused me. I heard the relay click too when pressing the button hence I thought it was the motor. FYI I can confirm that with a faulty amplifier/black box, you will STILL hear the relay click, the voltage can kick it over but it can't support enough current to turn the motor hence the window won't go down. Try resoldering all the joints in the amplifier first.
One way to diagnose this problem is to hold on the power window switch then give the door card in the area the power amplifier is and give it a firm whack of your fist. If the window starts moving, you've found the problem.
Well it's been a while but now that I have some time on my hands I thought I'd attack the problem. I wanted to know, if the window is all the way up, will this be a problem trying to remove the trim? I've read somewhere that it can be a pain to get to a particular screw or something if the window is all the way up, and if so, how have people been able to get around this?
You need to find a way to get the window partially down to get to the screw. I found that my window worked when ambient temp was cold & it would not work when it was a hot day. You could try to partially wind down the window on a cold morning? Otherwise shake/rattle the part of the door where the transistor is to try & get a better connection. That also worked for me once or twice.
If the window is stuck all the way up then yes it's a pain, you won't be able to get to a screw which is only accessible when the window is down. I planned ahead for this problem and left that screw out when I changed speakers. Sorry the advise isn't that useful but you could just man handle that particular piece of trim with some force and it will come off. Failing that, bash it with a hammer or attack it with a crowbar and it'll come off. If you break it, no big deal because it's only a cheap piece of trim and you can replace by sourcing from a member parting out a zed or go to a wrecker and low ball him for it.
you can remove the door trim without removing that screw and winding down the window. what you do is take off the seatbelt clip on the door and then that plastic bit will unclip from the bottom, dont force it too much as you will break it up top. once you have a little angle on that top trim piece, you should be able to get a screwdriver into the top screws of the trims. just be careful when removing the trim as it kind of fouls on the top trim. if you still have problems getting the trim off. im located in keysborough and i am more then happy to remove it for you.
Hi aazn/Adamzx, Thanks for the tute. I had a huge amount of help from Adamzx last weekend who was kind enough to give me a spare window power amp (minus a thumb) and showed me how to remove the door trim. My Z is an auspec 94' if that helps, it doesn't have the belts on the door. I just had a crack at this now and although I was able to remove all the door panel screws and unclip the bottom of the trim, I still wasn't able to pry it open enough to get to the amp easily. I could put my hand in there and touch it lol, but I don't think I'd be able to get a wrench in there to undo it, it would be very tight and I have small wrists as it is. I also tried removing the two screws from the power switch panel, not sure if that helps? The bottom part of that panel comes off easily but the top part of the panel seems to be held down firmly and I didn't want to try and rip it off not knowing whether it was screwed or clipped down. I've just tried googling for '300zx remove door trim window up' and a combination of that but I couldn't find anyone/anywhere that mentions an alternative to removing the door trim when the window is stuck in the up position. I'll have a look at the tech section incase I missed something, i did find this: http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/trim/doortrim.htm However again, similar to the door trim removal on the aus300zx tech section it requires the door to be down. Any tips? EDIT: I have just seen this, I wonder whether the door switch panel does infact unclip without screws and I'm wondering whether this is the final screw I need to get to, to be able to pry open the bottom part of the door panel easily? Cheers.
