Does anyone know if early and late model brake master cylinders are interchangeable? I'm looking at putting a late model non ABS master in my '91 track car rather than ghettoing up a bias adjuster in the existing system. (Not that there is anything wrong with ghettoing stuff up...) Coz seems to have different diametre cylinders for different years, it's the first I've heard of it though.
Anything I was able to find when I was searching this out was that the TT ABS and NON ABS cylinders, altho mount the same, have significantly different bore sizes. IIRC the ABS cyl had 26/26mm bores. Non ABS was something like 21/23.....or whatever! Ill stand corrected on this. E E
The diameter of the master is calculated using the amount of movement required, the number of pistons and the diameter of the pistons. This all affects the peddle feel (how hard it is) and the amount of travel. If you ripped the ABS out of the race car I suggest you just find a NON ABS master to replace the ABS one, if there is NO upgrades of caliper sizes etc.
More beer? LMAO, No, I want an ABS MC for the Pullstart! Mine on the NA will have to stay where it is!!!!! E
They go for crazy money new, $250+. I'm negotiating with mmarschall about getting one of his non ABS masters from a '95 or '97 car, we have no idea if they are interchangeable or what they are worth second hand though. Assuming I can get a replacement at a civillized price you can have mine for whatever you think is reasonable, probably beer
Yeah, just don't let me get over enthusiastic and drink it all at once, I can't see it doing me much good. Also, we can probably reduce the actual amount of beer given that I expect it to be personally delivered, that will eat into the cost a bit.
mine is early model non-ABS (BM44 and is 15/16" diameter). Billy (aazn) might still have one from his wreck. GTR N1 used a BM50 (1" bore) but they are pretty rare. I'm not sure if this is the same as the later model non-ABS Z32 mcyl. maybe mmarschall or bRacket can check for you? the BMxx number is cast onto the side of the mcyl. I'm not 100% sure but the internal proportioning valve in the mcyl (split point and reduction rate) may be different between 2+2 and 2+0 due to different weight splits. You'll may still need a proportioning adjustment on your car Pete, especially since you are stripping so much weight out of it and doing the lightweight rear hatch.
So what you're saying is my best option is to steal yours? The standard non ABS bias is not adjustable? Might be better off just sticking with what I've got and putting a proportioning gizmo where the ABS unit was. The brake lines take a pretty long route to make their way around the car but at least it's pretty much all there for me rather than starting again. Light hatch is still yet to come, will get around to it some time. Probably shoudl work out if I'm doing it with or with out spoiler first too.
