Davies Craig Electric Water Pump

Due to quite a bit of interest for the Davies Craig 110L Electric Water Pump, MaTTz and I have secured a great group buy price for 10+ units direct from Davies Craig! You wont get this cheaper anywhere else!

Electric Water Pump Brochure
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Brief Decsription
The revolutionary, Australian designed, EWP pump is made from anti-corrosive, lightweight, glass-filled nylon and incorporates a SiC x carbon mechanical face seal for added reliability. The EWP is a performance accessory that improves engine cooling control and capacity while giving you more power and improved fuel economy.

The EWP is universal and fits almost all makes and models of vehicles on the road today.

Included in the kit is everything you need to fit it to your vehicle in an afternoon, including, easy to understand, Do-It-Yourself installation instructions.

My 2 cents
Now even though Davies Craig states that it is a universal fitment, i am almost 100% sure that there will be some modifications required to mount the pump. I am going to try and secure one unit from Davies Craig in a short while and go ahead with fitting one to my zed (i don't mind being the test mule). Once this is fitted, i can make a howto for other zedders who are interested in fitting them. Bare in mind that the group buy will go ahead without my testing... So there are no promises that this will be carried out prior to purchase and/or delivery of the pumps.

Extra Information
Now there are a couple of options to choose from when wiring up the pump, in terms of how it is controlled. At the moment, this group buy is for pump only and NO control unit as it is still under development (released jan/feb of next year). More developments about removal of thermostat and removal of mechanical water pump is to follow. I may or may not include a block off plate to remove the mechanical water pump completely (at cost), however this will be confirmed in the coming weeks.

Group Buy Cut-off Date
As I am running both Davies Craig group buys (16" Thermo Fan and the Electric Water Pump), I have set the cut off date for this group buy as FRIDAY, 13th JANUARY 2006.

Pricing
The group buy price of this Electric Water Pump (EWP110) is $155. This does not include shipping. Once the pumps have been secured and paid for, I will post with shipping costs.

Payment
I will start accepting payments for these items immediately. Please follow these steps:
1. Deposit $155 into the account below.
2. In the transfer comment field, put ONLY your forums nickname.
3. Click here to email me your details.
(This includes Forum Nick, Full Name, Address, Suburb, Postcode and State.
4. Sit back and wait for me to contact you in regards to delivery (this will be close to the 13th January).

Bank Details
Bank: BankWest
BSB: 306-104
Account: 072285-6
Account Holder: Thomas Bentley

NOTE: THE ONLY COMMENT REQUIRED WHEN DEPOSITING THE FUNDS IS YOUR FORUM NICK.​

 

put me down for 1

i'll transfer the money on tuesday (payday)
cheers

 

Put me down for one, money has been transfered and have emailed you

my details.

I've already made the thermostat and water pump block off plates so I'll post some pics of where I'm up to with my prep for the water pump. I just need to weld on an -16AN fitting to the water pump block off plate for the EWP to connect to and then polish them up.

Best option would be draw the block-off plates up in CAD and get them water cut from 6mm 6061-T6 aluminium which will cost you about $11 for a 500mm x 160mm slab of it which will give you about 4 water pump blockoff plates.

I used the jigsaw to cut mine out and it took about 40minutes to work my way round it. A quick tidy up with the file and drill some holes and it's done within an hour.

 

thanks chewy

i'll try to pm you or msn you later and we can discuss maybe a small run of these for the group buy. Let me know your progress.

 

Re: thanks chewy

so how long do you imagine being able to run the thermo fan and water pump for after shutting the engine down before your battery dies.. together they draw around 23A dont they?

 

not sure andrew but i'll look into it

 

from the previous thread,

PS: for info, the stock electrical system is:
Alternator 12-Volt, 80-Amp
Battery Low-Maintenance 12-Volt, 65 Ah

so it looks like you could run it for 2 hours from a fully charged battery, although personally i'd only do it for 5 mins which should be much better than the current regime with a turbo timer

when your car is idling with a turbo timer, the water is circulating slowly, the fan is spinning slowly, and the engine is still producing heat

another thing is, i'm not sure if its required, but i'd consider getting a bigger battery since i'm making the electrical system such an important part of the engine health


do these pics imply that if you use a block-off plate on a waterpump then you also need a thermo fan?





it seems that if you are keeping the stock fan, then you still want that pump to spin... i guess you remove the pump blades?

and, what will be used to spin the alternator? since that pully seems to come off the waterpump/fan pulley

 

here's my progress on the plates >>

Get a sheet of 160mmx200mmx6mm 6061-T6 aluminium. I got mine from Smart Aluminium which is located Smart Aluminium.

I put masking tape on all surfaces to stop it from getting scratched as a scratched flange could leak. Then using a fine point nicko (I use a Sharpie) and the water pump on the alloy make an outline of the waterpump.

Then get a drill bit that's just the right size for the bolt holes of the water pump and gently tap it with a hammer. If you have a cheap arse drill bit it could stuff it but it's the most accurate way to mark the center of the bolt holes.

Remove the waterpump and mark with a cross the mark left from the drill bit.

Now cut it out with a hacksaw (use a carbon steel blade usually painted black) or a jigsaw (with a fine toothed blade). Both ways will take a while - approx 40 minutes if you use a crap jigsaw from supercheap.

I'm going to most probably try a -16 AN/JIC flare weld nipple (the one in the pic is a -12) which needs to be alloy welded to the plate.

Then when fitted it will look like this (I just have it taped up there)

Only problem is the lower timing belt cover hits the fitting so I'll notch out the lower timing belt cover as there is plenty of room between it and the timing belt gear.


I've also taken the thermostat housing out and plan to run the heater hose back to the radiator return with some custom alloy piping etc. This will mean there is no heater bypass to warm the engine up quickly but I believe that the controller will not start pumping coolant till something like 50deg which means the heater bypass will do nothing anyway. Then the ewp will start pulsating coolant till the temp reaches 78 deg (??) and when temps reach over that it will run continously. Maybe the new controller will do it differently but I assume the change will be a replacement of their crap sensor that looks like a thermocouple that you stick under the radiator hose or put it somehow in the thermostat housing to a proper temp sensor that screws into a boss just like the oem ones.

 

chewy

i get your plan up unitl the heater return, thermo stat area ?????

this is what i think your doing, can you confirm if i'm on the right track?

radiator lower pipe will now run to waterpump block off plate as oppose to the factory route of the thermostat housing. Thermostat will be removed and a block off plate put in place. The water return through the top rardiator pipe as per factory.

If that is the route what is the advantage over simply making a block off plate for the water pump, removing the thermostat and continuing to pump water through the thermostat housing first.

As for the "digital" controller, if we are lucky dc might be going down the path of user definable maps where we can hookup a lap top and control what the pump does at certain temperatures. That could then be extended to control three or so outputs such as fans, warning led etc.... But i doubt they would incorporate something that sophisticated.

 

re: here's my progress on the plates >>

whats the deal with the flare nipple thingo? why is that required chewy? :wacko:

 

re: here's my progress on the plates >>

becuase it looks like his removed the whole thermostat housing and bypass thingamajiggy, which is pretty tidy.

people wont know what to do with all that extra space man.. haha

although, after taking out mattz's KOYO racing radiator last night.. he needs all the room he can get

why dont you weld the nipple onto the other blockoff plate though? i havent seen inside them to know why you did it that way and put the nipple so low, i can only guess that because thats where the inside channels finish up

 

JETzx>>>

Radiator lower hose -> water pump -> water pump block off plate with AN fitting -> block -> heads

The drivers side head has 1 outlet at the rear for the coolant supply to the turbos and heater core but coolant doesn't always flow into and out of the heater core (only when the heater is turned on). There's always flow down to the turbos and back to the heater return pipe that runs down the valley of the engine into the back of the thermostat housing. With the thermostat housing I'll just plumb the heater hose return in the existing upper radiator return pipe.

There's no reason why you can't feed the coolant in from the EWP through the thermostat housing as per normal (with thermostat removed) but you have the problem of how to stop coolant backflowing up the heater return pipe. This is where you would need to modify the thermostat housing to block the incoming coolant from the heater return.

 

I'll take another photo with the water pump block off plate removed

but basically with a flat plate like that over the water pump flange leaves no room for coolant in the area behind the bigger circle part of the block off plate.

With the thermostat removed I can get my gorilla hands down the valley of the engine to replace the det sensor so that's why I removed the thermostat.

 

What!

With the thermostat removed I can get my gorilla hands down the valley of the engine to replace the det sensor so that's why I removed the thermostat.

Your jokeing right?

 

im only keen on this if we can get some plates made up. i dont have the res

ources at the moment to make a plate up let alone weld.

 

heater return

Where is the heater return pipe? I'm trying to get a picture of how we can prevent this backflow because id rather just use the stock inlet/outlet locations, even though i am going to modify these to allow for my rerouting of coolant hoses.

 

IMPORTANT NOTICE

Just to spell it out to some members, if you are purchasing this EWP to replace the mechanical water pump thus freeing up some horses, you will need to also buy the thermo fan.

Just thought i would make myself 100% clear

 

just to let ppls know

last night minivan and i removed my radiator from my engine so i had the advantage of taking a good look at it

by removing the water pump, your alternator continues to run off your crank pulley, you just need to get a shorter belt and then adjust the alternator position (tighten or loosen a bolt - very easy) to tension it up

since i'm removing the crank pully anyways, i just went and ordered the 120,000 mile kit from Coz so that i can get an underdrive pully at the same time :thumbsup:

i'm expecting a nice reduction in parasitic loads with all these mods!

 

another thing,

i don't see why we can't get these plates watercut or lasercut or whatever, as soon as we get the design perfected thanks to chewy

by mass producing it, it shouldn't cost too much.

 

Re: another thing,

nissan do make a waterpump gasket (coz have them and gave me one with my water pump).. should be all you need to get a plate made up

you wont need that fancy fitting that chewy has either, anyone who makes radiators should have a barbed ally pipe which would be alot cheaper

to remove the thermostat, you will need the controller for the waterpump