I have recently got the urge to fit cruise control in my TT 5spd. I want to scavenge whatever hardware is on a wrecked Z, such as dash switches, steering wheel, etc, as I do NOT want one of those crappy aftermarket units.Using original Z equipment, does anyone know whether I need to stuff around with curcuit boards, computer chips, and so on?Obviously I just want it to work without having to do a factory fit on it (ie: replace harnesses, etc, etc).Has anyone done it before - is it possible to do without ripping the car apart?Advice greatly appreciated!CheerZ Vincent
Captain search to the rescue! searchy searchy, gets the answers (try a search with ASCD and me as the author to start with. If after reading all the hits you still have any questions, post some specific questions.Cheers, :-Z :YD
Specificly, did you manage to fit the factory unit ok Dave. How did you end up with the pedals? Did you sort out the loom to the actuator?
Thanks for the info... Unless there is a detailed FAQ/DIY post, I can picture doing some serious harm to my Z and running for bits about 2000 times or so... ie: without serious assitance it is beyond my automotive skill level! Thanks again. CheerZ Vince
Answers within, and also with search Did I manage to fit the factory unit OK? - Yes, and mounted the stock Zed steering wheel mounted switches into a Momo wheel.How did I end up with the pedals? - No probs. I used an auto brake pedal with the foot plate cut down to the size of the manual one so the manual rubber would fit it. This was necessary as the brake pedal for cruise has two brackets to switch the brake lights and the ASCD cancel switch, but mine only had the one for the brake light switch.The clutch pedal also needs two brackets (one switch for power steering, one for ASCD cancel). I cut the bracket off the manual brake pedal that was being used to switch the brake switch, and welded it onto the left hand side of the standard manual clutch pedal, so that it would actuate the clutch ASCD cancel switch. The brackets on the pedal box and the wiring to mount the two cancel switches were already there - I suspect they are on every Zed. Loom to the actuator? - a bit fiddly, but basically it's three wires that you have to get from the actuator in the engine bay to the fusebox and relay panel area in the driver's footwell. I got fussy and did it factory style, but you could drill a small hole in the lower firewall from the driver's front wheel well, and get the wires in from there OK. From there, they just need to splice into an exsting plug which is mounted on the side of the fuse/relay box. Vincent and egghau, give it a go. It was only hard for me 'cos I was doing it for the first time. If you're willing to get all the bits, I'm willing to supply any info/help/fault finding that you might need. How's that for a deal?? :-Z
Thanks for the offer Dave The only question that was concerning me was the loom one. The last post I found of yours in search was the one dealing with the probems you had with the pedals. Very inventive solution. We also have a Momo wheel.As for doing the task, I think, having had the car sitting in my back yard sans interior and engine/box for the last four months, the last thing I want to do is pull it apart again! BUT, I will gather the parts. The task is not improbable, just won't happen now. While I had the instrument cluster apart I thought I would deal with the wound back speedo (very obvious!).Worked out in eighteen months we have done only 9000k. Got some driving to catch up on!
I've got an auto to manual convert... with cruise control which hasn't worked since the conversion. Dived into the foot well last night and found that1) The "ASCD cancel" switch on the brake is missing although I have found the blue connector for it(2) The wiring for the clutch switches (ASCD and powers steering) aren't anywhere to be seen.Are the wiring looms different for autos and manuals? If so, could this be why I can't find any of the clutch switch wiring?Cheers MikeZ
Hmmm, you will probably find that the original auto loom does not have the clutch switch wiring. No problem though.As long as you still have the bracket/hole for the clutch switch (you should have, as the manual pedal box assembly would have been put in for the conversion), there's an easy fix - get yourself two ASCD brake cancel switches from an auto Zed and a length of the wiring with the connector intact, put one switch in the brake location, one in the clutch location. On the brake switch connector, cut one of the wires (not both) and connect the two ends of the clutch switch connector and wires to the cut ends. In other words, hook the two switches in series, and it will operate just like an original setup. If you have access to a service manual, have a look at page EL-99 for info. Re the power steering switch missing on the clutch, that might not be such a problem - the autos used a switch on the park brake (as well as the shifter position) to detect that the car wasn't moving. The manuals used the clutch switch (as well as a neutral switch) to detect a 'vehicle speed signal'. If it's all working OK, then I'd leave it alone. If you have strange power steering fluctuations, then I'd dig out the wire going to the park brake switch, install a clutch switch, and wire it in parallel with it. If you have a service manual, look at pages ST-29, 31, 67, 69 for some good info on this.
Great...will do Thanks for the creative wiring ideas David. As the ASCD used to work before the conversion I think the brake switch must have been removed for some purpose. So I'll just find 2 to hook into the system. It gives me an excuse to go to Cresta tomorrow. My first visit so I better keep the wallet under control.Actually, as the clutch has both switches (unused) on it I might even be able to switch one over to the brake and wire them both into the ASCD cancel circuit...maybe.Thanks again for the ideas. MikeZ
Can I over ride the ASCD cancel relay in the engine bay fuse box (left over from the auto set up)? It is my understanding that this will need to be hardwired so that I can then set up a brake and clutch cancel swtich in parallel. Can anyone direct me on how to hardwire the relay socket for a permanent ON connection? I'm not a electronics guru so I'm not too sure and thought I'd ask before I jumped into it with some bare wire.Cheers MikeZ
I think you might be able to just leave it in. A quick look at the cct diag for the ASCD with auto looks like the relay has to be energised (by selecting park or neutral) to cancel the ASCD. If it's never energised (because you don't have an auto anymore), then it will never cancel, so you should be able to just leave it in place. This is assuming that the original auto shifter inhibitor switch has been removed, and is not left intact and sitting in park or neutral. Try it with the relay left in. Better still, get someone to turn on the ignition when you have your finger on the cancel relay. You should not be able to feel or hear a 'click' from this relay when the ignition is turned on and off. If it does, then you've got some wierd leftover wiring for your shifter inhibitor switch, and you will have to hard wire or disable the relay. Re the brake and clutch switches - please hook them up in SERIES (as I described - cut ONE wire of the brake ASCD switch, and hook up BOTH wires from the clutch ASCD switch to the cut ends of the brake ASCD switch wiring), not parallel. If you hook them up in parallel, you'll have to jump on both the brakes and the clutch to cancel the ASCD.
Oops, meant in series... picked up a brake cancel switch yesterday and will wire it up in series (whew) with the clutch switch.Thanks for clearing up the relay query. I was unsure as to whether it was energised open or shut and was thinking that I might need to wire up a closed loop in the engine bay relay box.Cheers MikeZ
Cruise Control 5spd Man ?? Confused Can someone expain to me how cruize control works on a manual? I mean is it only set for 5th gear?Because on auto cars when you go up an incline the transmission changes down. I am confused?
No..... I have cruise in my manual. But yes, in a manual, the cruise will not change gears. It will only stay in the gear you have selected at the speed that you want to cruise at. So yeah, if you've got the cruise set at 80kms and come up to particularly steep hill, you will have to down change to third. As soon as you press the clutch pedal, the cruise is switched off and you have control. But really, people only use cruise for long highway driving so the changing gear thing is not a prob because once in 5th you can stay in fifth. Cheers
works in any gear... provided you are over the 50 kph minimum limit of the ASCD unit. Just don't start going up and down any big hills as it won't change the gears or you.
getting there Gave the ASCD system a good going over with a multi meter over the weekend. It looks like the ASCD cancel relay wiring disappeared in the auto conversion. So for other auto to manual converts out there - this is the cause of ASCD failure after the conversion as there is no signal through the relay (to energise or a signal from the hold relay).I'll rig up my own cancel loop from the ASCD hold relay (in the passenger footwell) to the clutch and brake pedals (a few issues to sort out there too) and back to the ASCD control box. Shouldn't be too tricky and according to the diagnostics all the other buttons are working and the unit is getting 12V.Also have to source some more cruise control light bulbs and connections under the dash. Seems mine were removed...but that's a story for another post!!MikeZ
