I plan on doing this properly, as I'm not happy with the lockout bar, and am going to swap it for one of these. Three choices, what have people used and any neg experiences with any of the 3 here. DriftWorks - Cheapest of the 3 by about $70-$120 SPL - Always like the SPL parts, have a good rap, pay a bit more for it though Or the UAS ones here - similar price to the SPL, although the SPL look more solid.
whats the matter with the lockout bar? just out of curiousity as i havent deleted mine yet. i would go UAS by the way.
Am I right in saying it looks like the SPL one replaces the outer ball joint with a bushing? Similar to driftworks? JP reckons these don't last as the bushings flog out due to restricting change in toe from compression to full droop. See posts from JP in this thread http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297589&highlight=HICAS+eliminator and this one http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290605&highlight=HICAS+eliminator Also I can't see how welded hollow tube is going to be stronger than machined chrome molly rod? It does look nice though.
a) Even locking out the HICAS, you are still restricted with the hicas toe rods and it's time for those to go as there is still play in this area. b) HICAS bar is just additional weight I don't need. Why the UAS ones?
Similar, except the bearings in the bushing are apparently alot better in the SPL than the driftworks. I can't see the bushing flogging out IF the other arms have been replaced with solid bearing-type arms. It would be the lateral movement that flogs the bushing, similar to what happens when you use adjust front upper control arms with standard or flogged out caster bushings...it all goes pear shaped.
Another alternative is the Midori gear. It is what SPL used to sell before their current version. They look basically the same as the UAS ones
good bearings are $60 a piece. I would go UAS for the same reasons rob260 sugested. SPL bearings may be ok but your better of with buying forged stainless steel if you want them to last oh and dust boots. Just my 2 cents as ive had bearing failure before.
ive been few weeks with the uas ones, i havent notice any probleme with thems drove madly over the weekend and it holds good, bumer i cant enjoy this weekend again as ma gearbox just gave up, so time to take engine out and update turbos, dump pipes and another transmission going in.
i have been doing a lot of thinking about these lockout rods of late. issue i have is that the toe in changes as the suspension compresses and expands. these new kits have shorter rods than a traditional bar AND the attachment point is A LOT different than stock. Problem I see is the shorter those rods are the MORE toe change there is the suspension reacts to the road. Those rods need to be as long as possible to minimize toe change as the suspension changes height. IMO even the lock bar rods are too short. I have been toying with making very long toe rods with a single attachment point near the centre of where the Hicas rack is. This would minimze toe change with suspension movement. A true Wishbone rear end like in a open wheel race car has NO toe change with suspension movement. I suggest our cars should be the same.
Get the UAS one .. bearing - ball joint I like the SPL one but not sure if it has rubber bushing to replace the ball joint ?
Yes that sounds about right. The lock bars use the stock toe rods, so there's no real change in toe there, except that which already existed. Besides that most peoples suspensions are so fkn hard they hardly move up or down. Hammering round a race track is where it might show up.
that makes sense although when we plotted my toe change we got minimal toe change once set up .. I'm guessing having 4 point adjustable suspension was able to minimise it .. from memory it was only +/- 1mm in the travel I'll double check ..
Yes, but there reaches the point where added length will add no advantage, how long entirely depends on your suspension travel. If the arc of the UAS/SPL (i've disregarded driftworks) is wide enough for a given amount of suspension travel, then there would be no advantage to lengthen the rod. The disadvantage to lengthening the rod in my mind, would be strength. If you say utilised the rack mounting points for your brackets, then I would be concerned about flex and strength.
yes I also slotted where the hicas arm bracket bolts on to subframe so my car probably isnt a good comparison to the normal set up
So its one of their monoballs (spherical plain bearing ). If thats the case then it would do the same job as the hicas ball joint. After looking into this as well i like the SPL kit it as it gets rid of all the stock hicas parts including the spindly M12 thread needed if you want to retain the factory ball joint. My plan is to use after market non hicas toe rods and a monoball in the hub like SPL.
