just installed a new clutch & bearing, put everything back together, attempted to bleed the clutch but with very little success. she starts fine, but with pedal fully depressed clutch is not engaging. anyone had any problems like this before? if so how to rectify? am 99% sure it is the clutch hydraulics. is anyone in the melbourne area familiar with how to bleed the zeds? if so any chance i could get some help in person. am located in the moorabbin area. SE burbs thanks
have you bled the clutch in both points there are two bleed valves in a zed - one on the slave cylinder, one behind the drivers side headlight. you need to bleed from both. in my experience it has been more crucial to bleed at the one behind the light.
have bleed from both points we tried just manually on all 3 points with no success, but we then bought one of the brake/clutch bleeder machines you hook up to compressors and then we did the one behind the light and the slave point again...still no such luck. feels like its going to be an all night job
The instructions say......>> It needs to be done several times from each point. Get someone to watch the clutch fork when the pedal is depressed to make sure it is being actuated.
it definately is applying pressure to the fork but not exactly sure how much it needs to move? does aynone know an approximate length? it looks to be going about 10mm
Is it necessary to bleed the hydraulics after replacing the clutch ? I was told (somewhere on this forum) it wasn't. Also, I will be replacing one of the hoses that runs from the master clutch cylinder to the slave and was wondering where the 3rd bleed valve is as it's not shown in the pictures that Wykked posted.
You only need to bleed it.....>> If you allow air into the system, although periodically flushing and bleeding the fluid would be a good idea. The third bleed point is on the master.
Re: Is it necessary to bleed the hydraulics after replacing the clutch ? If you dont undo any fitting to let air in, then it does not need bleeding. You can choose this time to change the fluid or replace a hose or two but if there was no air in the system to start, then replacing the clutch wont put any there.
I have another question Since I will be replacing the hose I'm also thinking of either reconditioning the master clutch cylinder or replacing it altogether. What do people usually do, replace the whole thing or recondition it? Also while I'm at it is the slave cylinder common to failing? Just wondering if I should get that replaced as well.
got it! after spending seriously 2 hours bleeding it, we finally got what we were after lol. i was quite convinced for a time that there was a leak in the system as there was so much dam air in it. anyway new clutch is fantastic and no more vibrations over 80km/hr as tailsahft reco'ed go team :zlove: have decided silly N/A not have enough power so ill have to order some headers and an aluminium fly haha
Depends on how long you want it off the road...... if you get it recon'd you'll have to send it away to get sleeved. Just bite the bullet and get a new one (about $125) and it's only off the road for a day. Or if you particularly wanted a resleeved one, ring UAS (No Zisluv this is not an invitation for you to jump in)[/COLOR=green] because they carry them on an exchange basis. I would suggest doing the slave at the same time (only about $100) in order to eliminate what will now be "the weakest link".
