Changing water pump pulley

Hi guys, gonna tackle this little bugger on the w/e just wondering if anyone has any tips or advice,

This is the only tech article i could find i assume its the same processclicky

From a quick search i notice i have to take off the timing belt covers and to do this i have to take of my Lightweight UDP, only problem is i need a gear puller, can anyone reccomend one from supercrap or the like maybe in the link below

another CLICKY

 

To change the water pump pulley you only have to take off the fan and belt.

 

The easiest way to change the water pump pulley.

Remove radiator
Loosen Alternator
Remove Fan + Clutch
Remove Belt
4 12mm bolts and the pulley is off

Reverse to put back on

You don't need to go anywhere near the cover's

** you do not need a pulley puller for the water pump pulley, its just simply 4 bolts and it falls off.

If you plan on changing the Crank pulley, then you will need this one
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...uller-Set-13-Piece.aspx?pid=12533#Description

And also a torque wrench which goes upto 160ft pound.

 

No need to remove the radiator mate. Just let the fan float around in the 'bay while you swap the pulleys over.
I've managed to rip the fan and viscous coupler out thru the bottom without removing the radiator too... Just have to hold your tongue the right way...

 

ohh sweet, thats cool, why do i need to loosen the Alternator??

Also how tight do i re tension the belts back on?


Excuse the ignorence

 

A used belt should have 7-8mm deflection, measured from the bottom 'flat' path under the car. A new belt should have 6.5-7.5mm at the same measurement point

Ignorance excused

 

It takes like 2 mins to remove the radiator.

It probably takes like an extra 10+ with it in, trying to hold your tongue the right way =]

that is why i think its easier just to remove it =p

 

The alternator and water pump are on the same belt, so you have to loosen to the alternator to remove the belt,

on the bottom of the alternator there is an adjuster bracket. on the back of the bracket is a lock nut, loosen that, then loosen the long bolt which which hoes horizontally through it.

You will then be able to move the alternator to loosen the belt.

To Tighten, just do the bolt back up until it reaches the right tension, as mitch said around 8mm in the middle of the longest point of the belt between pulleys. then do up the lock nut.

You should then also recheck the tension after a few days.

 

It's just I see the cost of an extra 10L of coolant as unnecessary. And as I said, if only changing the water pump pulley, the fan assembly does not even need to leave the fan shroud area- Just slide it off, slip off old pulley, replace and slide back on.
An offset ring spanner or a ratchet spanner allows all 4 10mm bolts holding the fan coupler to the pump pulley to come off easy.

 

Thanks mate


But the radiator will be coming out, wouldn't mind giving it a coat of paint, and have to change over a few more things whilst i'm in there including the mounts TT radiator in an NA

 

No brainer here. drain the coolant into a container and re-use it. No cost at all.

l8r
E

 

Further no-brainer, use a thermo-fan and it simplifies the process entirely.

 

any tips on how to move the alternator, i have the nut and the bolt still wont budge though

 

also is there anyway to remove the old belt, and get it the new one on, i can seem to see away other than removing the other belts

 

Should undo the top pivot slightly, not all the way though... its a bugger to reinstall. I actually re-did my alternator top bolt with a long bolt and nylok nuts, allowing it to be removed way easier (on the NA). The stock one uses a square nut with a lock-tab, which works, but you're screwed if it comes all the way off, as it's in real tight quarters.
The bottom tensioner assembly is pretty straightforward.
The 'moving' part is a function of strength and leverage Pry-bar FTW.

 

It's just one of those things... Cut the old ones loose if you have to, but take note of the positions of each belt. If you are really game, you could have a go at doing a belt change VW beetle stylez

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^^ Don't try that on a zed, you will probably lose your arm

 

get a stick under the car on the side of the alternator, and tap the stick with a hammer, they kind of get stuck in position with the old brackets

 

The VG is a hungry beast while it's running.

Although saying that I did use a similar method on the VG. I'm not going into to details on the forum, I will not be held responsible for lost appendages.

 

Yeah, I think of it as 'best-practice' for redneck belt replacement.
As long as you get the belt in the right side of the pulley, and just gently crack the starter motor, everything will be A-OK