I want to shim the left side camber arm to remove 1.5 degrees of camber. Is there a specific thickness that equates to a degrees.
Yes with basic trigonometry, I use it to work out fender clearances for my fitment. Why do you want to get rid of it? That's practically stock (1.35*).
Urgh, trig... can't remember any of that stuff! I actually enjoyed advanced Maths in yr 12 but it's been a while since I've had to use any of it!!
I replaced a few parts and threw some new rims and tires on last week, so i took it for an alignment this morning. The left fronts got -2.5deg and the right has -1deg, also got rid of the 22mm toe in. Trig oh i hate trig . So camber change varies depending on the angle of the arm camber, theres no formula like this then, just trial and error example... 3mm shim = 0.5deg 6mm shim = 1.0deg 9mm shim = 1.5deg
Holy crap! Not at the moment but I'm sure someone could chime in and work it out. I know for my 19" rim, 1* of negative camber means it'll tilt in 4mm at the top edge. You should be looking into what's causing the camber though... you're looking at inproportionately modifying the pivoting points in the front end, alarm bells going off in my head!
lol that was me when i replaced the rack boots 1500km ago, thought i got it closer than that. well i could shim both sides the same amount and be within specification even though theres still a 1.5deg difference between sides
If the car has a front side hit at some time. The top of the tower could be bent inward slightly. It can be fixed at the panel shop by pulling the top of the tower out. I actually made a guage to check this, as many cars have weird camber such as this. Many have been dinged and never repaired correcty. Badxtc's car is like this. You can just shim the camber brackets up and ignore it
correct . i have put some shims in there and is all good . but do not think for a sec that the car is 100% because its not . shimming does help by all means , but really needs to be fixed , in my case the car will be coming apart after phipil island so it does not bother me
I hadn't really considered this the front bar had been replaced, but the front panels were still joined to the body with factory sealer. Still i guess some measuring is in order, whats this gauge you have look like? other wise i will borrow a trammel bar from work.
I was actually making engine hanger out of some steel bar. And used the upper bolts as the support. So used vertical pces of small tube to fit over the bolts welded to a horizontal bar across the top of the engine. Turned out to be a great guage for shocker tower spacing as well. In the manual in the back there are measurements that can be used to check these issues warren
Not to over simplify, but wouldn't a check be to simply attempt to fit a one piece front strut brace?
Possibly, though most of them have slots for holes instead of holes. You only have to be 10mm out on one side to have an issue.
You'd be better off measuring it, as per the factory service manual dimension stated in tekky's post. There's 10 pages of dimensions from every mounting hole, bracket and bump in the engine bay to work out if it's true or not. Yes a strut brace would be a good gauge, but it's relative to the Quality control of the brace and the spec it is made to.
Final thing, make sure the car is actually level before finally measuring the camber to work out the shim thickness. If one corner at the back is low it can effect the camber on the diagonal front wheel. This not too hard to do at home with some packing blocks with nthe thickness cut to 1 degree top to bottom of the rim. Using a spirit level. I have got it so close before, the wheel aligner only had a miniscule amount of adjustment to make
Thanks for the tips. looking at the FSM i shouldn't have any dramas checking if the towers are in right place in relation to each other and the firewall.
