In the century range you should be using a 55D or a 75D for Z32. It will fit properly. N70 is huge; you'd use that in a Landcruiser or similar.
I agree, someone should let them know just how huge they are. They also have different lengths for NS. The biggest are 310mm but this one is just 259mm. NS70LX MF Century 85Ah and 720cca I am going to one of those Century resellers, they say they have a gizmo that will pick the correct battery for my car.
I used to use a NS70 Century battery for a while with my Z, but when I installed the OEM battery box I had to go for a smaller sized battery that would fit inside the battery box. I ended up going with a 58EB battery which has 540 CCA which is the correct width but not as tall as the 55D23L battery and it has 100 more CCA then the 55D23L. Ive had the battery running in my Z since 2012 and so far not a problem and after some battery maintenance yesterday it is currently holding at 380 CCA after 4 years of everyday use and I hope to get more out of the battery now that Im going to try and maintain it properly. The only downside to using this battery with the OEM battery box is because the battery is not as tall the battery terminals hit the top of the box and not side down the terminal all the way, also the OEM battery clamp is more holding day the battery box then the battery itself which is still fine but when this current battery dies Im going for a proper 55D23L battery so it fits perfectly. This video might help with keeping your battery maintained and last longer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhnVZ7ZPunw
If you have a Z with a manual or automatic transmission then a 12V/65AH battery is specified. If you have a convertible with an automatic transmission a 12V/60AH is specified. The types of specified battery are as follows: A manual 65D26L An automatic 80D26L A convertible 55D23L Yuasa have a 65D26L battery which is also marketed under NS70L Autobarn have the SuperCharge GoldPlus Battery MF80D26L-720CCA Supercheap have a SCA Car Battery - 55D23L, 420CCA There is also a Best Battery 55D23L - 600CCA As you can see using the 55D23L as an example it is available in more than one CCA capacity. Having contacted CTEK battery chargers enquiring to the relationship between AH & CCA as their chargers are rated in AH's. The reply was " It is not possible to convert AH to CCA". At the end of the day you can install a battery that is too small to supply the required current to start your Z, but you can never have a battery that is too large in capacity, provided it will fit.
I've been using a 58Eb (I think) for the last 3 years 550cca Fits in my polished battery cover and starts up the car nicely now I sorted out a grounding/coil power pack issue
There's a few issues with batteries here that have been touched on above but not really acknowledged. Firstly, looking at a particular battery based on its CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is a little like buying a cheap "x" thousand watt audio amplifier thats rated in "total music power", "P to P", PMPO and/or whatever else horshite that is used by manufacturers to hoodwink you into buying them over their competitors. You could have something with huge CCA and SFA Reserve Capacity! Cool eh?!!! Almost all of the audio amps are rated in this mysterious peak to peak or total music power which is functionally just verbal diarrhea. Without whoring too far from the subject matter, you divide whatever figure they give you by (circa) 11 to arrive at a realistic "X" watts RMS which is a REALISTIC power rating for audio amplifiers. So that fancy 2000 watt x 4 channel amp with the chrome shiney bling and courfull LED's planted everywhere you bought on ebay in fact, could conceivably have LESS power, per channel that your head unit to begin with LMAO!!!!! ............Suckers! Tyre kickers love it tho!!! What will tell you a little more about the battery is AmpHour and /or Reserve Capacity. Very simply, how much juice it has and for how LONG it can supply it! Moving on, nothing much less than a 10 litre V8 diseasel at below freezing would ever require a starter that actually DRAWS anywhere near these mythical CCA's crowed about by battery marketing boffins and re-sellers. The VG30dett is a small capacity v6 with an unremarkable and generic little startermotor that only requires as much amperage at all on initial inrush as it can use. The car itself does not draw stratospheric levels of jiggawatts in comparison to anything else. Why would gthe factory fit such apparently lightweight battery leads? Why some of us are so fixated on the Z32 requiring stratospheric battery power, and alternator output, sufficient to power the space shuttle, is quite beyond me. Most of the time, my own Zed has a ride-on battery installed with barely 200 CCA and its starts first time every time and numerous times from dead cold because the bloody starter cant DRAW any more power than the ittie bittie battery can actually provide. Im also regularly guilty of using a small AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery from my bike which works just as well. However, despite my stock charging system, using a small battery like this repeatedly that, altho successfully starts the car hot or cold, WILL result in VERY short battery life. Read on! Its pointless having such cranking power (CCA) available if you cant actually USE it. The simple analogy is a dead stock NA engine and fitting 2000cc injectors. Altho it works, its pointless and creates other issues which pisses you off in other ways. Secondly, with the VG's being fitted with such high capacity alternators and the nefarious and common practise of fitting even higher capacity alternators (for reasons that totally escape me), what most people are ignoring is the fact that the batteries are being repeatedly abused by sudden overcharging after EVERY startup. More often the starts...the worse the abuse! Where in hell does a zed require more than 80 CONTINUOUS amps of electrical power??? well, in fact it doesnt. Yes, thats right kiddies, by fitting ever higher output alternators, your are successfully shortening your battery life. Almost exponentially, if its a short run, weekend-warrior car. Charging systems and batteries in the automotive game are not particularly "smart" and if the engine is repeatedly cold started/short run and the battery is rarely, if ever near full capacity, then after startup, your 10 million jiggawatt aerospace rated alternator is shoving its FULL rated output less whatever power the car takes to actually run straight up the bum of the battery EVERY time you fire it up. The lead/acid battery cannot actually accept this stratospheric rate of charge and until its apparent battery voltage reaches near output voltage of the alternator, the excess power is dissipated as gassing and heat. The battery never reaches is full charged state even tho the system voltage regulates off at (circa) 14v. Furthermore, heating of the cells lowers their internal resistance which invites still higher rates of charge........ Thermal runaway...not likely in an automotive battery, but...those of you well versed in the the use of Ni-Cads should be well aware of this. You have whats known in the old days as a "surface charge". battery voltage is apparently up, but battery stae of charges isnt! It takes at very least 15 minutes to fully recover the power from a single start and even more when cold. using a lead/acid battery! Add to this the fact that the Zed EFI system, along with clocks and audio head units all drawing "X" milliamps when switched off sucking the battery down continuously resulting in even lower states of charge, reserve capacity and A/H's and almost constant battery abuse by overcharging from the stupid gazillion amp altermahooter!!!!! The battery on a short-run driven car will almost NEVER be "FULLY" charged and what inevitably happens one day, after a prolonged shutdown and a cold wet morning is the dreaded - "Turns key.... *CLACK..nnyeh....nnnnnyeh............nnnnnnnnnyeh............................. nnnnnnnyerrRRRrrrr...............tik.tik.tik.tik. (dash lights go out)!! Batt-Flattery!!! often from the mechanical failure of the innards of the battery.. but often enough, just a plain flat battery that many are sucked into buying a new battery. Due respect to battery retailers, but I doubt thered be one alive that EVER actually bought or even pinched a brand new battery off the shelf for the family runabout!!!!! Tee-Hee! Stumagoo makes a very valid observation about the battery life of his old Datto. The Datto would be lucky to have a 30 amp alternator installed stock. Back then, electric demisters, aircon clutches, aux fans and enough dash lighting for a 747 cockpit were very rare indeed and there was no need to fit anything bigger alternator-wise. So take away about 5 amps to actually run the engine, about the same for the wipers and demister fans each and the MOST his battery will have shoved up its nose will be say, 25 amps. If he fits a 100amp or larger alternator, (why?.. because some interwebs armchair expert told him so) his battery will not charge up any faster to full capacity than it does now with its ittie-bittie alternator, BUT, will in fact, die in very short time due to very simply, repeated OVERCHARGING!!! So, unless you are a rural ute kinda guy with 8 x 100w driving lights installed and enough clearance lights to light up a B-double truck incessantly idling away in the bush while night shooting pesky Bunnies and Roos', then fitting a monster output alternator and-or a zillion CCA battery is pretty much a pointless WOFTAM. Going for additional RESERVE CAPACITY... well, thats thinking! But you still cant shove more amps up its bum that what it will take!!!!! I have a headache!!!!! E
Imported thing when choosing a battery is that bigger battery will give you more years out of it, as it gets lighter surges of capacity (when cranking the engine) then smaller battery will. If you go to battery shop and ask for availability of batteries for the particular car and warranty period. You will find that perhaps: 300CCA will give you 1 year warranty 400CCA will give you 3 years warranty 600CCA will give you 5 years warranty So there you you go... Get as bigger battery as you can fit, and keep it topped up with water if that is wet cell...
So Tas, a good solution for the racecar types would be to get a little corolla sized battery but also swap the alternator for a corolla unit so you don't burn the little sucker to a crisp and use a good maintenance charger during the off season?
I would add that my 68 datto actually had a generator not an alternator - but Tas is on the mark in my opinion. I have a 720 cca fitted in my 4x4 (what it came with) and its not at all what I want, I also have a 520cca (starting battery in it) and it starts it easy as pie, my 720 was there because the previous owner though it was a good battery for camping with (large cca but he only had a single battery setup) and was really way off the mark a smaller battery with a larger rated AH and enough CCA to start the 3.0 v6 was all he needed. - in the near future the 720 will be going into a battery backup box for jumpstarting and a high AH battery will be put in its place (this battery now only powers accessories like radio's etc. if I get a winch it may change back and have a 3rd battery installed in the rear (be a true deep cycle then)
EXACTLY!!!!!!! Furthermore, underdrive the alternator to best suit its charging characteristics to the revs the engine will be running at. Different alternators, regardless of their rated output, deliver that output in different ways but universally, they take a dim view to being over-sped!. E
CCA "I'm going to buy the battery with the most cold cranking amps I can find," says a lot of people when they decide to go battery shopping. Is that really the best way to pick out a battery? Oftentimes, the answer is, "no." To explain why, we should first explain exactly what cold cranking amps are. The Battery Council International has come up with a series of standardized tests that allow all battery manufacturers to list specifications for their batteries, based on the outcome of those standardized tests. One of the measurements that can be determined from those standardized tests is how many cold cranking amps (CCA) a battery can generate. So how is this determined? Since "Cold" is in the name, they put a battery in a cold environment (0°F/-18°C) and measure the discharge load in amperes that a new, fully-charged battery can deliver for 30 seconds, while still maintaining terminal voltage equal to or higher than 1.20 volts per cell. Why did they pick a cold environment? Ask anyone who lives in a cold climate with a high-mileage diesel truck, it takes a long time to start some vehicles, whether that is due to high compression engines, extremely cold temperatures or both. Measuring cold cranking amps gives someone a good idea of what they can expect from their battery in some of the worst conditions possible for starting a vehicle. Are there instances where someone may need to start a car in temperatures colder than 0°F or crank an engine for longer than 30 seconds or both? Absolutely. However, those are exceptions and not the rule. Even in those exceptional cases, the CCA rating for a battery will still offer someone a general idea of how their battery is designed to perform in those conditions. So Should I Buy A Battery Based on the CCA Rating? Even though some areas of the United States will dip down into sub-zero temperatures, most vehicles just don't see those types of conditions on a regular basis, if ever. With that knowledge, does it make sense for a Corvette owner to select a new battery because it offers a lot of cranking power in sub-zero temperatures? Probably not. What about a Duramax diesel owner in Florida? Same deal. Even if that engine requires more starting power than a typical engine, it probably isn't necessary to overbuy a battery based on cranking amps that may never be needed. A battery should meet or exceed the manufacturer's recommendations for cranking amps (or cold cranking amps), but in most cases, buying a battery with an extra 300 CCAs isn't necessary and will probably cost more money. Why did CCA Ratings Become So Popular? Part of the blame for this CCA craze can be attributed to the brands and manufacturers themselves. Just like sports car manufacturers brag about how much horsepower their engines have, battery brands tend to do the same thing with their performance attributes. Enough brands and companies have told people over the years that "more is better" when it comes to cold cranking amps, that a lot of folks now believe it always the case. While more may be better, it may not be necessary and it may be more expensive. So What Is CA and MCA? Many batteries typically also come with a cranking amps (CA) rating (also sometimes referred to as Marine Cranking Amps or MCA). This is the same test as the cold cranking amps test, except it is performed at 32°F (0°C). The cranking amps number will be higher than the CCA number, because of the warmer temperature, but you know what that means to a battery marketer- BIGGER IS BETTER!!! Once again, battery advertisements may praise the virtues of a battery that has more cranking amps than Brand X and some people will believe that is important, while ignoring that brand X has more than enough cranking amps for their four-cylinder engine and may cost 20% less. What Specification Can We Brag About Next? If the "bigger is better" mentality is the formula for selling more batteries, it only seems logical then, that battery marketers would seek out even more testing methods that would further enhance the image of their products. You've probably come across some ads that brag about "hot cranking amps" or "pulse cranking amps" that flaunt even higher numbers than the ratings for cold cranking amps or cranking amps. In fact, you might even catch one of our ads that references five-second bursts of power. The logic behind these claims is that the vast majority of vehicles on the road will never need their engines cranked for more than a few seconds. For that reason, it makes sense to share a specification that more accurately reflects what most folks see in real-world use. The problem with those specifications, is that most companies and brands seem to come up with their own unique specs that make it difficult for consumers to compare across brands or manufacturers. That brings us back full circle to cold cranking amps. While it may not accurately reflect the real-world use of the battery, cold cranking amps does offer an apples to apples, industry-wide comparison, which all reputable brands will have readily available. Whether it is the most important specification when making a purchase depends on the application, but for most folks it is at least a starting point. The caveat to all of this, is that these tests are performed on fully-charged, brand-new batteries. Every battery should be able to knock it out of the park when it's brand-new and fully-charged. The real test for most batteries is how they perform over time. Source: https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/2014/01/what-does-cold-cranking-amps-cca-mean
Took my NS70L ( 610cca when new 2 years and 5 months ago) to Battery World. They tested voltage .... very good. They tested cca ... only 140 cca They said my car must have cooked it by overcharging. But but but... this battery had some built in tech to prevent overcharging. ... so they said .... doesn't matter because the battery is out of warranty anyway. Note: the new version of that battery doesn't list the overcharging prevention circuit as a feature. It is now MF sealed.
NS70L is Lead acid battery. Even if "seald" there is a 70% chances that is just dehydrated as you water finds the way how to evaporate... If your cell's haven't been damaged (As you say voltage still good = cell's should be fine) you have good chances to bring it back up just by adding some distilled water. Google how to open sealed batteries if interested... But but but... this battery had some built in tech to prevent overcharging There is no technology with in Lead acid batteries to prevent overcharging! You need to prevent over charging on the charger
