Hi Guys, Quick question - What is the normal operating temperature for the Automatic Transmission? - Also, what would be a safe maximum? - I was looking at the SAW and its default alarm isn't untill 100, which i though was relatively high.. I searched and couldn't find anyone referencing an actual temperature, apart from installing a cooler.. Thanks
There are a few charts like this around. I think they are more indicative of lower temperature is better. High temperatures damage o-rings and seals and effect the transmission fluid, synthetic trans fluid is good if suited to your trans as it isn't as easily damaged by heat and has more stable hydraulic and lubricating properties. As synthetic trans fluid doesn't have the contamination issue of synthetic engine oil, the extra cost is well worth while in a performance situation. If seal aren't sealing performance is lost. 100 degrees C is about right for a max, with poor cooling and performance use the transmission temperatures can skyrocket to the point of effecting your engine cooling system through heat transfer. Temp conversion F - C 325 - 163 300 - 149 275 - 135 250 - 121 225 - 107 200 - 93 175 - 80 An automatic doesn't have a fully controlled operating temperature like an engine, there are temp levels at which more pressure is allocated to the cooling circuit I believe, but its quiet common in performance applications to modify for "increased lubrication flow" which i imagine would put more through the cooling circuit as well.
Sweet - I do have a tranny cooler, sitting ready to go on, just don't have any tools in canberra to mount it or anything, so hence im worried about the tranny in the mean time.. i watched it rise to 95 degrees, but that was after a run and sitting stationary at the traffic lights.. i set the alarm to go off once it breaks 95.. but once I have the cooler installed, will monitor it and maybe lower that to 90 ish.. just need to focus on getting some cash to make it to dubbo to install the cooler next
100c is fine with a gearbox oil cooler 100c is fine with a gearbox oil cooler... For my vh45 110c is required. On my v6na at 100c I never saw any warning. With my v8 at 100c I did get a temperature warning after earshot fun in the twisting and after several hours driving, but at 110c ain't heard a peep. Important thing is to have a good quality gearbox oil cooler. Also do not underestimate the overall cooling affects of a quality engine oil cooler.
Yeah I definitely plan on doing one - I have a pwr cooler sitting there ready to be installed. Ill be swapping back to my stock atcu untill i can tet it in.. Its gettin close enough to 100c in a very short trip.. Althiugh im not entirely sure what it was sitting at with the standard atcu as ecutalk doesnt have a parameter to show this..
since a lot of AT coolers exist inside radiators, it gives an indiction that over 100 degs is not preferred
I was under the impression that the internal cooler was useless and basically not worthwhile even mentioning? - I have a PWR tranny cooler there, ready for installation - just need to get my hands on some oil lines & the ability to mount it.. I presume its going to make a worthwhile difference to the temps? - has anyone put a transmission temperature gauge on with a stock atcu? - what temp does it run at normally?
The stock cooler, inside radiator, is only just adequate. The problem with it is 2-fold. It may become blocked very easily and cause AT failure. In fact many owners have replaced AT's and suffered a 2nd failure as the blockage was not diagnosed initially. Secondly, the cooling efficiency is reduced as the rad temperature will be circa 95 degrees. AT operating temps measured in QLD summer time range from 100 to 140 under normal conditions. 140 achieved with stock cooler after fast run on hot bitument > ambient temp ~36C & radiator 95C. It is therefore recommended to bypass the rad when fitting an external cooler to eliminate potential for blockage. Furthermore, a valve body mod should include full-time lubrication and oil flow to cooler.
My post simply points the the answer of the question (what temperature). At no point did I reference its effectiveness. When I had an Auto, I put a Trans cooler in also. nuf said
sweet as, appreciate the info - means im not slaughtering my box if im keeping it under 95 in the short term.. Ill definitely be installing the cooler asap, just need to finish exams and get back to dubbo so i have some tools and a place to work on it.. Anyone got any tips on where to get some hoses for relatively cheap? - I have the cooler, but no hoses.. Also, its a second hand cooler - would you recommend getting it flushed out? - and also the tranny? - is this able to be done by running something through the tranny and cooler, or..? Thanks
You can buy a flush in a spray can to clean out oil lines, go to a place that services and rebuilds autos. High oil temperature wont kill the transmission, it just reduces the effective working life of the transmission fluid. I ran all last year with a saw kit and no tranny cooler, so I changed my oil every 6 months. I've now run my oil lines to the rear with a cooler mounted between the fuel tank and the rear bar, ran 3/8 oil hose and spiral wrapped it where needed. You can get the hose from any auto accessory.
I haven't actually touched the auto box at all since purchasing the car - one of those things that keeps getting put down on the to-do list :-/ Spose I will do a flush, and change the fluid at the same time and installing the new cooler.. any tips on changing the fluid? - to be honest, i havn't even looked at the tranny, apart from checking i had sufficient oil in there..
You only need the flush for cleaning the lines if you disconnect them. Buy a new tranny filter and pan gasket, they come in a kit for less than $50. You may be lucky, check if your tranny pan has a sump plug, this just makes it a little easier and cleaner when you drain the fluid. There is still a considerable amount of fluid left in the torque converter so you will only need about 4 to 5 litres of ATF. Get yourself a couple of metres of small (1/4 inch) clear plastic hose to use as a filler hose down the dipstick tube - I have made a spare oil container into a pressure feed to pump the fluid back in. Get the car up nice and high on jack stands to make life easy.
I bought a digital temp gauge when I had the yellow Z, I was going to have a bung welded in the pan to monitor temps, but I sold the Z before I got chance to put it in.
Considered that myself but thought this might be better for the reasons outlined. Not sure if the in line sensor adapter suits the RE4R03A/01A but as these guys work pretty closely with it in the Patrols I am sure they could tell you. Don't know if they would sell the adapter separately as most people would want matching gauges. http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=12031
Any recommendations on fluid? - Also, you said the filter and gasket come in a kit? - is this specific to the 300 / patrol? or a generic kit? Thanks
Dad has a similar gauge lying around I was going to utilise, but was wondering, we have a sensor already in the transmission, is there any reason we can't utilise this for the guage? - The SAW kit allows you to monitor it while its plugged in to the computer, and has an alarm set, but doesn't allow monitoring without connection.. Ideas?
Pex, that's just teasing us with an iwozgunna story Is this the type of thing yuwergunna do? ( on the left )
EDIT: Not a bad idea there, ESS racing link ID's the wire. http://www.ess-racing.com/files/SAW_Installation_Manual.pdf Page AT-84 gives some temp/voltage info, should be linear. As a matter of interest I also found some factory info that said check the fluid level hot as we know, but they consider HOT as 50-80C. If the sensor is linear you will run out of range at 110C and would be considerably inaccurate before that I would think, they just want to know when its HOT, so no cigar but nice try. Has anyone seen the SAW temp gauge past 100-110C ? Could probably set a TWD up for 100C could be useful.
