what is the difference between an auto and a manual ECU? I have a manual tt and have been told i can use an auto ecu as long as its also a tt. Could someone clear this up for me please?
''Search'' is your friend..... This subject has been covered many times and you've been a member long enough to know how to use the SEARCH function :bash:
Not 100% sure but an Auto Z may have issues using a manual ECU. The binaries (that contain the maps) are a little different between them, mainly in idle timing values which is no biggy. The auto will increase timing 10 degrees at closed throttle position when the auto is out of park or neutral, a manual will only advance 1 degree when not in neutral. So to answer your question, I've been running an Auto TT ECU in my manual converted TT for 2 years and no problem. I know Benny_C is running an TT auto ECU in his factory manual TT and no issues either.
i have heard you can run an auto ecu in a manual car....there are slight differences between the two ecus but in an auto car there is an extra computer for the auto gearbox, unlike in a manual car.
From my understanding the only difference between the auto and manual ECU's is in the tune eprom itself. From what i've read on 3ZC, if you have manual ECU in an auto Zed, it doesn't communicate with the auto ecu properly and can give unpredictable shifting results. (i've only heard of others info, i haven't had personal experience in this or tried it myself) obviously it's fine to run an auto ecu in a manual Zed though, you'll only get a code 54 (auto tranny error) and have 25 degree timing in closed throttle position. But will run fine.
Have you found a way of removing the Code 54 error Benny? I'm getting it on mine with the VH, there is probably something in Nistune I can do, but thought I'd ask first
I know you can do it by using the manual template .BIN file and adjusting the tune to suit your car from there. Karl did this to my auto ECU, and fixed the error code, and also cured the 25 degree timing issue that comes with the auto ecu's. So if you get a manual tune .BIN file and then import your A/F and timing settings to that, it should sort all that out.
Agree with Benny. My ECU (NA manual) was socketed and tuned and now I get the Auto Error code since the base map he modified was from an off the shelf tune to suit both manual and auto's.
thanks a lot guys. So in my manual tt-convert i can use either auto or manual. Thats good. Means i have many more ecu's on the market that suit me. What effects does the 10 degree timing advance (retard?) have. Im not aware of what actually happens when you change timing.
Kewl, that's what I thought. Have to find a non-existant manual bin for my VH then I know there are a couple of manual tunes around, have to see if they fix the error code.
It will most likely not effect your driving side of things. As in, you probably won't notice the issue. ...but... essentially, what happens is the auto tune reads the "neutral" gearbox switch from your g/box and (while at closed throttle position only, ie: idle), it will remain at standard 15 degrees while in park or neautral. but as soon as you put your auto into a gear (drive/reverse), it instantly advances the idle timing to 25 degrees to compensate for the extra load on the engine from being in gear, so it doesn't stall. When you have the auto ECU in a manual car, unless you ground the neutral switch wire, then it ALWAYS thinks that your non-existant "auto" gearbox is in drive, and runs an idle timing of 25 degrees. No biggy really, and LOTS of people drive with this configuration with no hassles. I have previously noticed a very minor hesitation while i had this where if i just lightly touched the throttle (to take it out of closed throttle position), then it jumps straight back down to 15 degrees till you accellerate more. A quick fix without having to stuff around socketing the ecu and getting a manual tuned eprom put in there is to just earth out the gearbox neutral switch wire from the ecu. i can't remember which pin it is off the top of my head, but tech section will show you. Hope this helps
thanks a lot for that. I think what ill do is just find an ecu auto or manual for the time being and leave it as is. If its an auto i wont fool around with it as I plan to eventually learn a bit about tuning and get another ecu anyway. Thanks for the info though. Was very helpful.
i just wanted to update on the situation and ask what you guys think as im a bit worried about something. I ended up getting an auto ecu. Its been tuned by blitz. I think just fuel maps and timing. What happens now is that at idle in neutral, its at 15degrees timing. When i put it in gear (getting ready to drive off), with throttle closed timing changes up to 25. As was mentioned below somewhere. Thing is, the car idles fine in neutral, smoothly. It drives around fine as well. But when im sitting still and put it in gear (timing ups to 25 as expected), i get a slight popping noise from the exhaust (not ping, not backfire, one of the others about two pops a second). Just wondering if this happens to others, and if i should worry about it or not. I suspect my CAS might be off as I hand swapped it recently (drew an outline of the old and matched the new to this). Not too worried as its pretty mild, but just want to be sure.
Disadvantage of Blitz/Mines/Central 20 etc All the japanese tuning house ecus I've come across have the chip covered in epoxy, which means you are stuck with that chip/tune because it cannot be removed. You would have been better off getting a stock ecu and having it socketted, that way you can change chips at will.
yeah i was just glad the car was finally working. And thought 200 a reasonable price. I did however just buy another zed. Which happens to be a tt auto. So same ecu but unchipped. And then i have the dud socketed ecu. Ill work something out. Just for now im wondering if this misfire is an issue.
It is not a missfire, the extra 10 degrees advance can make a slight popping noise in the exhaust due to no extra load being put on the engine, some cars will do it, some won't. Nothing to be worried about really.
thanks thats what i wanted to hear. About the ecu socketing. Just wondering, is it hard to do? I have basic soldering skills thats it. Im thinking maybe i should get the stock auto ecu from the new car and socket it.
25deg at idle not a problem If you watch the timing (via datascan or via timing light) you'll see the timing hits 25 degrees at about 1200RPM anyway, so its not a problem. Note: Checking for accurate ignition timing, first ensure: Gearbox in neutral Aircon off Engine is at normal operating temps (~80deg) TPS is set at 0.44-0.46 Base idle is correct ly set - around 700-750ish observed on datascan/conzult (not the dashboard tacho) Then check with a timing light (not datascan/conzult). If any of the above criteria are not followed, you will get an inaccurate timing result. As others have said... code 54 does not have any detrimental effects (unlike most other error codes). Its just that the ecu is complaining that its not connected to the gearbox ECU.
Would you recommend doing this to a tomei tuned auto ecu? Or is that playing with fire? Also, would this bring the base idle back down to around 900 like the manual ecu opposed to the 1200 of the auto? At least as a quick fix before getting a proper ecu tune.
