Another manual conversion - Progress and Questions

Well... I have access to a well stocked workshop with a hoist - I have adjusted the clutch master shaft before so I am painfully familiar with how awkward it is to get at that spring clip -.- dosn't help im 6ft2in hehe

Just not sure what to do about the metal line that goes to the front - can you bypass it easily enough?

I think id go a 350z clutch arm and new pivot ball while I had the gear box out and perhaps a braided clutch line.

 

You're lucky, workshop access is awesome.

Honestly I haven't tackled the metal line yet. I'll have to do some more research but I reckon that you should be able to bypass or remove it completely.

Good point on the 350Z clutch arm. I'm picking up a short shift kit so I'll get a new pivot ball as well.

I have read that braided clutch lines don't make that much of a difference (something to do with the fact that they have to flex some) Have you used them before? What do you think?

 

Braided clutch line isn't much of a performance boost but compared to the standard line on the Z it's a huge convenience boost when bleeding. I would strongly recommend just running a braided line straight from master to the slave. Google "Trouble bleeding clutch 300zx" and you'll see a pretty common problem.

 

thats what I wanted to hear. I noticed that the 350z cluthc fork kit comes with an optional braided line. I reckon ill buy the kit.

 

Where are you buying the kit from?

 

What a weekend, I was seriously ready to take the damn thing out and blow it up.
I am learning first hand how much more cramped the automatic transmission makes the working space. I only have 3 bolts to get to (the three top ones) but the space is so tight that I have to take off the headers to get to them...

So 22 bolts to take off just to get to 3... bloody hell. I also have to take off the oil filter as well.
I could only do 4hrs yesterday before I got too mad to go on.

The only upside is that I have aftermarket headers that I was going to put in anyway But man it's cramped in there.

Something I need help with:
At the end of the headers there is a second pipe/sensor screwed in. It's just forward of the oxygen sensor and runs behind the engine. The new headers only have a space for the 02 sensor.

Can anyone help identify it?

 

I had planned on buying from https://conceptzperformance.com/ - but... I am not sure... I might give my stock stuff a try and see how it feels.

could be air injection system
http://www.yugobernie.com/images/Misc/AIV_Caps_Diagram.jpg

or could be exhaust gas recirculation
https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2014/10/24/11/28/pic-782182246801712820-1600x1200.jpeg

 

I haven't dealt with the autos but I hear ~2ft worth of extension bars and two uni joints on a ratchet makes getting to the top bolts possible.

 

It's definitely the exhaust return valve that goes to EGR. A plenum pull and EGR delete was on my list but I'll see how I can remove it now.

I think I'll stick to stock stuff now as well. The clutch i got isn't super fancy.

 

It's true with the manual gearbox but they're just not budging with the auto. I think the angle on the U joints is too much.

I've got a 50cm extension bar and a u joint. I'll keep trying this weekend.

 

I've read that lifting the front of the engine drops the gearbox back a little making it easier to get at the top bolts.

semi-unrelated but my mate who used to drift an R31 skyline cut holes in the firewall to make getting those top two bolts a little easier ;-)

 

this does work. loosen engine mounts and it will give it some "slop" and can lean back, giving better access.

 

This may sound silly but is there a safety risk of loosening an engine mount too much?

 

Nah, so long as you do them up before you go for a drive. Gravity will hold the engine in when stationary.

 

There is always the risk of dropping it and have it snag/pull on wires/hoses.

as long as the engine is supported properly (i.e an engine crane) before you start unbolting - you should be good.

Im hopefully starting my manual conversion next week (have a passenger side turbo to replace as well).

Got a GTR Extreme HD clutch kit in the mail along with a HEL braided clutch line. Also have brake pads and a 56mm alloy radiator to fit... plus a shocking belt whirring sound to track down but I reckon the manual swap is a go.

I left my manual brake pedal in my wreck and plan to cut down the auto pedal to fit the manual grip pad - hopefully I will not regret this choice.

 

dont remove the nuts, just have it loose.

 

Here is how to get at those two top bolts, you just have to clear those heater hoses out of the way first.

 

Coming in from the top? Interesting.

I got the bolts out finally. But something is still stuck. After a couple of cables were cut... Back to the manual

 

So here's my blonde moment, I didn't know that I had unbolt the torque converter before taking the gearbox out.

So now everything is loose except those...

 

Also, this is what is required to get the top transmission bolts off...