Hi gang, Not sure how many will remember me from 6 years ago, but I purchased my '89 auto TT zed in 2008, I managed to put about 1500km on her before it went bang with what I suspected to be a head gasket failure. I pulled the engine and tranny with intentions of rebuilding it, whilst tearing down the motor I found one if the turbos had obviously eaten something steel, all of the can splines had been ground down to a nice flat edge. I then had some kids, moved house a couple of times, let the car go unregoed and the project got shelved. Over the past year I've been slowly piecing the puzzle back together, I scored a second hand engine off a member here (can't remember your name sorry), and got a hold of some decent stock turbos to fit to it, the process had been very much on a beer budget. I've dropped the engine and tranny back in and think I've put all the wiring back on correctly. I'm hoping to use this thread as a reference for help on the questions I have to get the car to a running state, I'm hoping by Christmas. So thanks all in advance for your input. Things I still need to do; Fit exhausts ( I was going to wait until the engine was firing to do this). Are the sensors in the exhausts required to get the engine running? Best place in perth to get dump/zorst gaskets? Remove or replace immobiliser (lost the beeper a while back) If anyone can help me on this I will pay in beers ;-). Ensure all wiring is done properly as at the moment when ignition is on all of the dash lights come on, starter will not crank (imagine this is due to immobiliser though?) Get and install new fuel filter etc. Put stereo surround back together and install stereo. Anything else I should be thinking of? The car will need to go over pits and they will probably pick some stuff anyway, just hoping I don't have any massive leaks and have to pull the engine again. Cheers all.
Car will start without O2s plugged up. If time's not a factor you'd probably be better off getting the gaskets sent to you. Suggestions would be a different matter if the thread said "I have my motor on a stand"
May I suggest draining the old fuel out of your fuel tank and putting fresh stuff in. Removing an immobaliser is very easy. Just remove everything part of the immobaliser setup including all wiring to where your stock ignition and starter wires have been interupted and solder all the stock wires back together - all of these are colour coded. Have a good charged battery too. It may take a good few kicks to get it going.
Cheers mate, I drained the fuel on the weekend, it tasted awful. Haha. At this stage if I can just get it started no worries I'll be finding a good engine to build up it think.
So apparently you need to have a masters degree in electrical engineering to remove an immobiliser...
Hi gang, I think ive managed to bypass the immob now. Problems though' car still wont crank, I can hear a loud buzzing from inside the auto transmission... ecu showing code 55 so cant work out what is up.... help please !!!! Cheers
Error Codes: Here is a list of error codes. 11: crank angle sensor circuit 12: air flow meter circuit 13: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit 14: vehicle speed sensor circuit 21: ignition signal circuit 26: boost pressure sensor 31: ECU 32: EGR function 33: exhaust gas sensor circuit (left) 34: detonation sensor circuit 35: exhaust gas temp. sensor circuit 42: fuel temp. sensor circuit 43: throttle position sensor circuit 45: injector leak 51: injector circuit 53: exhaust gas sensor circuit (right) 54: signal circuit from A/T control to ECU 55: NO malfunctions in the above - this is the one that you want to get
Re: Transmission noise You mentioned the transmission & engine were removed & a replacement engine installed. Are you certain that the bolts securing the torque converter to the flex plate are installed correctly? Is the oil level correct? The wiring harness connected correctly? The auto transmission has a separate ECU, you will require the upgraded version of ConZult to read any stored codes, the free version won't do it. As far as the engine not starting - What is the open circuit voltage of the battery? What is the voltage of the battery when you attempt to crank the engine? A fully charged battery would indicate approx. 12.6 to 12.7VDC. If the voltage drops dramatically when you try to crank the engine & nothing happens, either the battery or starter motor are the likely suspects. If there is no change in the voltage, the starter might not be receiving the 'signal'. Which would indicate something related to the wiring circuit. If the starter is receiving the 'signal' (12+VDC) then the starter is the problem.
