For anyone considering a conversion to a complete R134a system. So I got all the a/c gear out of a late model zed 97 NA (mine is a 89TT), evaporator, pump, a/c lines, brand new condenser and receiver dryer from coz along with a new line needed from the pump to the condenser due to different fitting sizes. Installed everything and had it gassed up and it's working great, to good in fact its cooling to below 0 degrees. So I did some reading and found that the later systems have a temp probe at the evaporator that controls the compressor so the evaporator doesn't freeze up. Has anyone done this conversion do you have a solution? I remember the probe on the evaporator box but there was nowhere to connect it. Mechanic suggested an external thermostat to control it otherwise it will freeze up. Wondering what parts I would need to connect it like standard and where to run the wires.. need a wire diagram. He also mentioned that the condenser fan wasn't working when the a/c is switched on? Is this normal or is it temperature controlled? the fan works ok when you pull the temp sensor plug.
Was that R143a or R134a? What was the original system? R22? The R22 is being phased out, so future fills will be horrendously expensive or not available at all. Within a few years, the only R22 that will be lest is the gas the fridgies have reclaimed, filtered and dried, and have in their own vessels. I wish my AC still worked
Yes R134a, typo. Old system was R12 I believe and used a suction valve to prevent the freezing of the evaporator according to this info. http://z32.wikispaces.com/AC+Evaporator http://z32.wikispaces.com/suction+throttle+valve
Okay so found the electrical diagrams in the tech section. There isn't really much to it, but i'm not sure where the probe is in the circuit, can't see it anywhere must have the wrong year model.
There is A non cfc r12 equivalent however they still use it at ports as most refrigerated containers run on r12, where I was getting mine from before I converted to r134a, the only thing you needed to change was the receiver dryer, tx valve and o rings, u can get away with using a r12 tx though.. I have some later model gear that goes under the dash there is an electronic sensor, it's the thermostat I think earlier series had a different type of thermostat
From what I've read in the service manual only the r12 zeds with climate control came with the suction valve and run the compressor full time. The ones with manual control use a temp probe. All 134a zeds use the temp probe to turn compressor clutch on and off. So looks like i need to get a manual control amp and wire the temp probe to it and should be apples? I put the new ac gear in as the old ac hasn't been run since I have owned the car.
Just use a mechanical temp switch fitted to a gazillion AC systems. Poke it somewhere in series into the AC clutch wire. The probe of the switch must be poked into the evap core tho. Dont rely on using the evap. case outlet temp. Easy as. E
How much of a headache was this to get sorted out? My zed has had aircon removed, but I've got a compressor sitting here. I'd like to get it back one day, as it's the only car I've got.
Thanks Tass. Kawasaki- It was super easy to put in while there was no engine or dashboard in the car.. But if your old stuff is still there maybe replace orings, compressor, receiver dryer and get it gassed up and go from there.
Cheers mate, it will be a project somewhere in the distant future then, lol. My engine is coming out and a new one is going in at A2Zed next week, hopefully it won't have to come out for ages!
Worth noting that the standard comp. clutch wiring goes via the efi ECU. The ECU invokes whats called "AC Interrupt". The ECU will disable the compressor on lots of throttle/revs. Not a huge biggie but worth noting. E
Yeah seen that when looking at the wiring diagram, will be easy to wire the cut outswitch in at the ecu then. Where would be the best place to get a mechanical switch couldn't find much online.
Been on night shift so the brain hasn't been working very quick lately. For anyone that might do this later on what I need is an adjustable capillary thermostat. Found heaps online, I'm to lazy to drive anywhere at the moment. Hopefully I can install it through the hole where the blower resistor is. I also have a temp controller kit I got from jaycar that I was going to put in and use the existing probe to control the temp. But I might take that back if the thermostat does the job. I'm just curious to what sort of differential should be used so the compressor doesn't cycle to fast? I ordered one that has a differential of 1-2 degrees. See how it goes was only $7
As mentioned before, the capilliary tube MUST be insterted into the evap core fins to work correctly. Otherwise evap core freezing is the result. In worse case, the evap core can be damaged by the expanding ice and require replacing............. I believe you can pull the evap core down far enough to get into its outlet. E
Yeah i was going to jam it into the core from the back. I'll pull the blower before the other side that's a prick of a job.
