Ok guys, after all the hard work and frustrations I have finally finished the ZX. So how do I get 320rwkw to the ground, the beast spins the wheels at 80ks. Anyone recommend some good rubber and suspension set up. Dave
nice work dave! Got dyno sheet? How much boost? race fuel? Mods? Stock internals? ok now, Soft stock springs on the back is the way to go + camber arms. I use Bridge stone RE050a's on the back. Not cheap but in the wet they are awesome. I hit 1.2bar boost and still keeps traction with my suspention and tyre setup (Wtf!?) I after take off at about 30km/h tyres kick in and no wheel spin at all, all the way through the gears.
As Iceman said, nice soft sticky tyres and don't run stupid camber. There are plenty of 'street' semi slicks that are available for decent prices these days. I'll be going a set of Kumho KU36's. Official Site Better pricing
I wouldn't go semis for everyday street use, they wear out really quick and are diabolical in the wet. But I guess it depends on when and how much you want to drive it. I am gettind Dunlop Sportsmax fitted to my street rims, and keeping the semis for track.
Plenty of decent street tyres on the market, simple solution to your problem, turn the boost down a bit.
Proper branded Drag-Radial tyres like your Mickey Thompsons, etc. if you're that way inclined since your ultra-high-performance street tyres generally have stiff-as side walls which don't aid in grip under acceleration - they help grip mid-corner. Best talk to a tyre shop, they'll point you in the right direction.
I have boost set to 6lbs and 19lbs, at 6 it is pretty good, but god gave me 19+, it would be a sin not to use it....... lol
Thanks everyone, that gives me some food for thought, once I get this sorted I'm off to eastern creek, hoping for a sub 11 Dave
good luck dave but id say you'll be a while getting a sub 12, never mind a sub 11. read some of Wizards posts
Hi Dave for traction you need decent shocks, like Bilstein, Tein, Buddy CLub, about that order to. Urethane diff bushes, and angled diff pinion, and more squat angle by simply adjusting cradle, and toe adjustment. All this makes a big difference. We did all this and more to The SLot Car development over the years, which drastically improved over steer. We also made these changes on Wizards car, and at drags got done to a very quick 1.54 sec 60 foot. Wizards car also performs very well circuit, fastest road going zed at Nissan Nationals at Easter at Morgan Park and nice on the street.
Yeah I know but you have to set goals... I got a sub 12 (unofficial) last week but had trouble with wheel spin, start, and control, I'm running 19lbs on 80%D/C so I can boost a little more once I get traction and handling sorted. Anyway thats about my limit, I didn't do any work on the heads yet and I'm also running standard fuel pump and smaller Sards. Maybe I'll do a bit more next year if the mrs don't find out lol
Thanks John, work out a quote for me, for what you mentioned, I'll give you a call during the week Dave (The Painter)
Glad to see you are out there and enjoying it. With the power you have being siimilar to Wiz, you can get into the 11's. Just a matter of stacking all the rules of physics on your side with set up with what you have, and drive it is stolen.
When you push the car hard and the diff is under load. The torsional loads make the diff front move down then the prop shaft to diff angle changes due to the cradle bushings compressing at the back and rolling downwards at the front. As well, the diff bushings compressing unequaly. This causes the rear suspension geometry to deteriorate as the antisquat angles arnt working as they should. This loses you a pox load of traction. In an ideal world, you would not have any antisquat as it stops the weight from transferring to the rear wheels which is what you want when you go drag racing.
Under max power , the diff will want to go the opposite of wheel rotation , so for a leaf spring car you set the pinion angle 7 deg down , ladder bars or 4 link .5-1 deg down this is so under full load the pinion is pointing straight at the gearbox /tailshaft straight for max strength/least drag , So there will be a few variables with these cars, diff cradle/ and diff centre mounts to arrive at zero deg under full throttle. The other thing that is needed is antisquat / rise in the rear suspension , Difficult with IRS cars , the VW Guy's have been doing it the longest , Or teach your car to do wheel stands
