I have just been installing my idail 300km dial on the speedo and i was just reading thru the tech acticle and it might be a stupid question, but is the r10 resistor the only bit i need to replace and fiddle with or do i have to much around with the other bits mentioned tr3, zd4, tr5, zd3, c2 and r18, as i might be wrong but i thought i read somewhere on the old forum that it was only the r10 i had to replace, i just want to make sure before i start doing too much to the speedo
r10 is the only resistor to replace When reinstalling the speedo needle, don't press it onto the spindle too firmly until you have done speed calibration and also don't put the clear plastic fascia on the instrument cluster Now find someone with consult/datascan and get them to read out the speed sensor reading on their laptop as you call out the indicated speedo on the new speedometer fascia. Make sure you are 100% accurate... The article suggests driving next to someone to calibrate but I think the in-same-car datascan comparison is much more accurate as you aree reading straight from the electronic speed sensor via datascan... Finally, when you are satisifed the speedo is reading true ensure the speedo needle is pressed firmly but gently on the spindle and then install the clear plastic cover...
I've done mine without removing the needle, just replaced the resitor mentioned. I checked the speedo with a signal generator and it was almost perfect. There is a trimpot around that resistor which u can use to fine tune in any case.
yeah the idal face slides over the top of factory one. ie the whole in the middle is slightly bigger so you can slide the needle through it
