I know the standard nissan radiator cap is 1.2 bar. Is it ok to use a nismo 1.3 bar cap? Ive recently has the 100k service and every hose replaced so shouldnt have a problem with extra pressure. 'A 1.3 bar radiator cap will reduce operating temperatures in your engine and is a great performance add on. If you're running a higher pressure on your cooling system it helps keep the temperature down on the entire system, by raising the boiling point of the coolant. This will help during hot operating conditions like running the air conditioning while climbing hills, long road trips, bumper to bumper traffic, and high performance track or strip driving. It's especially helpful if you live in a warm climate.' If this is true... would there be any disadvantage in a cold climate?
i think that the standard N/A cap is 0.9 bar .. so what would there be value in running a standard T/T cap (1.2 bar) on an N/A ..???
correct baz,If you currently have a standard 0.9bar cap that is not faulty, it's not recommended to swap to a 1.2 bar cap as it increases the pressure on the whole cooling system including hoses/clamps anyone got a new 0.9 bar cap,im running a 1.2 cap lol
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A higher pressure radiator cap doesn't necessarily reduce coolant temperature (it may have some effect for example in reducing cavitation) , but it's main purpose is to effectively raise the boiling point of water, like in a pressure cooker.
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I'm not a fan of the argument against higher pressure caps for the sake of your hoses and clamps... More pressure (within reason)=higher boiling point=good right? That aside your hoses are new anyway so you should be fine with the nismo unit.
I have a 0.9 aftermarket radiator cap on my zed atm, when i brought the car it was the first thing i changed as my old 1.2 bar cap was a little worn on the seal, but i do want to get the nismo 1.3 bar just so i have th best cap available on the market. Also it has bling effect to.
Ive been using the nismo 1.3 cap for a couple of days and it has lowered the temp. Since i had the 100k done and udp installed the temp went up so that the needle was dead level. hard to notice but about 1.5mm - 2mm higher on the needle tip. Now its gone back down to the same point as when the car was stock. Im going to do another test with the stock cap to make sure. Also im not worried about the pressure dif as all the hoses are new
In these winter temps, a radiator cap should show no difference to the OEM temp needle. A quick run of datascan or conzult would be the most effective way of tracking exact temps. UDP will increase the temps a little for sure, I have documented this, hence the production of my Waterpump overdrive pulley (now in aluminium). You can see that in FS by business.
LOL Yes, one has to be careful regarding forum guidelines on this issue, hence no direct link, but a cooked engine vs a cheap product, it's an easy choice. If the OEM gauge is actually moving in these cooler temps, then the car must be getting close to boiling
I have a few questions, not sure if my assumptions are correct here... Doesn't the 1.3bar refer to the pressure that triggers the release of coolant to the overflow tank? So doesn't that mean that the maximum pressure in the radiator will be 1.3bar therefore the temperature of the coolant can only rise until the pressure reaches this number? So how can the radiator cap itself decrease the temperature of the coolant? Unless the old cap was leaking there should be no change in the temperature of the coolant, when changing from a 0.9bar to a 1.3 bar cap, right? The only thing that differs will be the boiling point of the coolant. Water boils at 130 odd degrees under 0.9bar (not sure what the BP of Ethylene-Glycol would be but let's just use water). But the stock temperature guage will display that the car is over heating at around 120 degrees C. So most people would have already noticed the car is overheating and started trying to cool it down (assuming the temperature rise is not caused by a loss off pressure or loss of coolant) well before the coolant even had an oppurtunity to boil. So wouldn't a 1.3bar cap just be overkill? Because even with the increased boiling point under the greater pressure, after seeing the temperature guage max out, wouldn't most people have stopped and tried to let the car cool down by then?
