Hi there, im in the middle of removing the engine to drop a replacement in. Everything has been going well apart from this small issue. Drivers side exhaust manifold, 3 bolt flange. Ive managed to remove the 3 nuts on the passenger side no problems with the aid of inox. But 1 out of 3 on the drivers side i cant remove. The nut has decayed enough that t he 14mm socket cannot bind onto it. I cant smash on a 13mm due to its a prick of a spot and nothing in the imperial range will work. This is the nut closest to the firewall and structural chassis. So im trying to brainstorm on how to get this off? Ive called all the local stores, repco etc to get the Irwin torx socket but no one has one in a 14mm size. Help! lol. I appreciate your input. Chris.
Is this what you mean by Irwin torx socket? I got mine from a local Glenfords, and they had the 14mm.
yeah, thats them. thats what all the local stores were calling them. oh how i knew you'd be the first to post chrispy. haha if i cant source them, whats the other ideas =/ just tried the 13mm again...i have a sore thumb now.
You got a welder? If so cut the front pipe off and weld it up again after you get the engine out. I'm really surprised the local tool shops don't have a 14mm farked bolt remover socket. You got a trade tools or something like that nearby? I find that Bunnings and Mitre 10 are no good for 'real' tools. Mine came in a little set of 6 or so in a nice blue case. Did you ask about imperial sizes? The sockets are tapered.
yeah i have a welder, and i did consider that...but soooooo cbf with that idea...will be my last choice on the list of maybe ideas. heh, or when i get farked off enough and start using my hammer on the panels. we have a repco, sprints auto, and auto pro here, all dont have anything at all =( trade tools are about an hour away and already shut. i agree m10 and the like are bs with their range. wasnt even on the list to call haha. there is always one bolt to fark the progress up aint there...
Use a 14mm single hex socket, not a double hex. Single hex only has 6 sides, same as the nut. You also need a wobble extension to get onto the nut square.
borrowed a single hex socket from amandas old man, wasnt deep enough...grr so i bashed the 13 on again got half a turn, and then slipped. cracked the shits, left a palm print in the guard and have called it a night. will see if i can buy a deep socket tomorrow. welding isnt an option. working with the car about an inch off my chest and in the c**t of a spot it is. just would not happen. lol its litterally the one nut stopping the engine being removed now. and i dont really want to cut the exhaust off. cheerio.
talk about reply quick....yes chrispy i know that....dont rub it in now...its still the last option in the book.
Drop the centre exhaust connection and then take the manifold off the head. Once the engine is out you can take the manifold and pipe out and do a better job on it in a vice. Regards Ivan
Its critical to have a set of impact sockets around. Deep hex sockets, strong as. If its burred to nonsence, would a solid vice grip work?
tried the vice grips, grips on, but no where to swing it. so no go there. as for the complete removal. ill add this to the list of options. also have a good range of regular and deep set sockets. always using the deep ones. just unfortunate they are the twin hex type... will hit the stores tomorrow in search of the single hex deep socket.. and also fix the dented panel =( naughty naughty...
I got a set of deep 6 sided impact sockets from Supercheap a while ago for stupid nuts. Cost about $15 Only 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm and 19mm. But that's all you need for the Zed. I've abused them something shocking and they love it
Oxy Accetelene ...... I use it all the time to remove seized nuts / bolts Some places will hire out a "COLT 22" setup ( small bottles) fairly cheaply or if you have a mate either in the steel, plumbing or aircon trades and they could swing by for 5 mins..... Use the smallest welding tip and heat the phark out of the nut until its cherry red (NB: dont use the cutting tip on bolts/nuts unless they are over 20mm in size) then quickly as posiable pour cold water over the nut (a hose works well) and cool it so your hands/fingers arent getting heated when you place them back in the area. the nut should come undone with very little effort. (Repeat process if the nut re-binds itself to the rusty thread ) NB: if your concerned about the heat, then use bits of tin to shield the vital areas from the heat of the flame. how it works: The nut is super heated and passes the heat into the bolt, obviously the bolt an nut expand with the heat with the nut expanding slightly more due to its direct exposure to the flame. When you remove the flame the nut instantly begins to cool but in doing so it continues to pass heat into the bolt..... the bolt acts like a heatsink and continues to expand in size momentarily The cold water then shrinks the nut rapidly but because the bolt is "covered" by the nut, its cooling process is slower. As a result the nut shrinks back to the expanded bolts size and "sets" at that size whilst the bolt continues to cool and therefore shrinks further in size....... giving "freeplay" on the nut The heat will also loosen the rust particles from the exposed thread and will cause the same particles trapped between the thread and nut to expand with the heat, but being trapped in a confined space causes the particles to break down to powder...... this powder is black in color and will actually act somewhat like a lubricant. If I had a dollar for everytime I've done this I'd be a rich man..... Hang on ....... I'll change that ...... I got more than a dollar for every time I've done this, but I spent it on the 3 zeds I own......... there are times I should have kept that $ Kingy
Seeing the nut is prob rounded off by now. I would sharpen up the cold chisel and use that to either cut through the nut or useit to turn the nut. Failing that grind the side off it with a Dremel or Die grinder.
Get a arc welder and weld a steel rod to the nut. I know you said there isn't much room but you lay under where you are welding with a thick piece of card board or wood on you.wear a hat , gloves and mask.Auto darkening helmets are best.It only takes a second or two to weld the rod to the nut then bend the rod into a L shape to use as a spanner while the nut is still very hot , it heats the nut and makes a spanner in seconds. Good luck Dave
Or MAPP Gas, get a burner and a bottle from the tool shop, about 90 bucks, but well worth it for when you need some serious heat. You can braze with it, but not good for cutting like oxy acetylene is...
