Haltec,PTU and Splitfire coil packs question

600 bucks later and splitfires turn out to be a waste

Going off their graphs splitfires show a continuous power where std coilpacks drop off. Sounds like I've been blinded. Oh well I guess. Lessoned learned. If the rain stops tomorrow I'm planning to drop boost to 10psi to prove not cas and not ptu and not wire issue and not pumped up lifters. I'll be looking into the timing again after that. The info in this post is getting juicy. Sounds like a few people like these dli hks for more spark. The plugs are irelavent at this stage as I have bought 4 different sets at different heat ranges with NO change what so ever. The only difference I got was when I changed gaps. Now running .8mm. It starts and runs the best. Any smaller and too many misfires under normal driving. I'll try the reading of the plugs if still misfires after a good run. Im keen to know about the std disc in the cas....is their a better cas or disc available out there?
Thanks to all who posted. It is a weird issue and all comments have been takin on board. Thats what I love about this site....no ones answers are knocked down. Great work peoples. Keep u posted

 

Id be staring to look hard at ignition power supply voltages.
Your engine runs fine under close to 30psi boost so there cant be a lot wrong with the stock coils. I see no reason to add funky ignition components at this stage but if the engine doesnt like low plug gaps at part throttle but handles high boost happily... then.... well... its not making a lot of sense to me?

However running roughly AFTER a hard run is strange.

You mention the data shows strange timing fluctuations. Does this happen (as previously mentioned) when the engine is misfiring?
What are your EGO's and IAT's during the missfirings?
You need to know this or everything is just speculation.

The Haltech should be capable of logging the ecu data during a run so id suggest logging a few runs including TPS, IAT, ignition timing and EGO and isolating the trouble times and posting screen shots of the data. That may reveal more.

The CAS timing disk is just that, a timing disk. You ecu simply looks at the trigger slots to time the engine and references off the synch timer slots around the outside.
I dont know if Haltech is sophisticated enough to read synch slots or whether its configged to ignore so many slots at a time with a divider routine.
this is what my Adaptronic does as reading 180 slots divests quite a lot of processor power.
Assuming Haltech has no trouble reading 180 slots /360 degrees rotation then there isnt a "better" timing wheel as such unless the synch timer slots have dirt/dust blocking a few of them but that would result in missfires everywhere anyway. Not just after a pull.

E

 

Most of the aftermarket ECU`s CAN read the stock wheel. But that doesnt meen they should. There is a reason some of them sells the 24 1 disk to swap into the cas. If the stock disk was installed on the crank itself it would be ok, but as it isnt the ecus (other than stock) doesnt know what to do with the unstable readings from a cam mounted disk with that sort of resolution. The stock ecu does some sort of wizardry and gets away with it (On a stock motor that is) Aftermarket ones doesnt. Hence the 24 1 disk.. Which HELPS with the problem.. Doesnt cure it though. Well we discussed this before Tass, and its out of the topic here so i`ll leave it at that...

 

Ummm.. Kicker, Im not quite sure where your going or youve been with this dude but perhaps you didnt read my post quite clearly enough.
Are you agreeing with me or disputing???? You start out vaguely disputing then go on to confirm what i wrote.......

Anyway, the information is completely relevant and on topic to the OP and anyone else who might take some interest regardless of how many times it has been posted before.

E

 

Yeah,reading it all again i see what you mean. I guess I'm just not as fond of the stock disk.
However as problems occurs after a run I highly doubt that trigger issues is the problem. Hence the off topic comment.

 

Summary:
Splitfires worked
Dropped boost to 10psi- got full rev range no prob and same in ongoing gears
Issue is not CAS
Issue is not PTU
Issue is not pumped up lifters
Plugs are still a little rich but at least they are all the same colour
I have totally ruled out plugs at this stage
Compression is still perfect from re-build- 140-143 on passenger bank
Compression is still perfect to me on drivers side bank at 145-148 (I don't have adjustable cams and the dots are a smidge off where they should be)

Bumped the boost in steps up to 20psi- all ok
Once over 20psi- problem comes back
At this point I tuned the air fuel into the 11.5 mark- noticed the numbers in the load above 20psi were noticeably higher so putting it down to too rich for now

I'll still try the reading of the plugs after a good run at higher boost
I'll be looking into the timing again after that
I'll go with the HKS dli if all else fails and get it on the dyno for perfection

 

What plugs and gap are you running ?
Sounds like plug issue drop
It to 0.7 /0.6 and see how you go
Also sounds like your tune still quiet rich

 

Running .8mm gaps

Running .8mm gaps
Tune is still rich- probably the cause for rough after a full gear run
I've got to spend the time this weekend to record the data- looking forward to that one as I haven't spent much time in there
Decided to replace the TPS connector in the meantime as well. Under load those wires get pulled- the connector isn't a tight fit anymore- time to move some wires while i am at it. Another thing to remove from the what if's.
I'll keep you all posted

 

There's your issue I had similar problems with 0.8 gap dropped it and miss fire disappeared

 

If your having spark blowout at smaller plug gaps then the spark energy isnt high enough.
I think Id be trawling thru your tuning files in your ECU's and looking at the ignition dwell settings.
Then, Id be looking to grabbing a coil and scoping it with a view to maximising the dwell time without overheating the coil.

E

 

After many hours of tuning using the on board data logger, i am almost convinced of air fuel mixture. It runs fine under load now. Went the next MAP sensor up so I didn't run so close to erroring out. Then made stable air fuel mixtures. It is not blowing out the spark. It shoots into a portion of the map that is clearly not tuned yet, gets too much fuel, fouls up, then returns to normal as it stays within the the tuned cells. Road tuning is so much harder than dyno's (to get into cells at high revs high vacuum)

 

BOV's? Could just be a fuel enrichement map prob or some ecu setting. Not the base AFR's

 

Still running recirc valves- no BOV
Fuel enrichments could be a problem as i have not touched these yet

 

Dwell settings are now at there recommended- they were not far off at all- cheers for the info, very helpful to know settings are being accurate

 

You can easily make adjustments in that section of the map by predicting fuelling based off the current VE table.
The fuelling must be very extreme to cause the engine to "4 stroke" at high boost and revs and so must be gobbing out wads of coal out the tailpipes.

You can predict the fuelling requirements reasonably by projecting mathematically off the end of the last cells you have tuned against the zero KPA cells and adding a bit extra for good measure.
Keep ignition right out of it up there and worse case is the engine will flatten off a bit but run well enough to keep you smiling.

Even easier if you can log any kind of EGO reading.
Just express the difference in logged EGO, lets say 10.5 as a percentage of ... 14.7 and make proportional percentage change in the relevant cells to give somewhere around 11.5 and you will be right in the slot.

e