How low can you go? Basic weight saving for 2+2 TT

I know the Z32's not a light car, but I'm interested in making the most of a "bad" situation.

Not a stripped out track car, and will have full interior with sound system.

At the moment I've:

- Full air conditioning delete with radiator, compressor etc deleted
- OEM Recaro's replacing OEM seats, driver's side was previously electric (they weigh a ton!)
- Spare wheel and tool kit

Next:

- Full HICAS delete with lines and solenoid removed as well as NA power steering pump fitted
- Considering a battery relocation to boot. This would mean a small sealed battery. Thinking of it for balance, but not sure if it would outlay the cost (~$400)
- A good diet and exercise routine for the driver

Also not sure how the replacement of many parts will effect weight - aftermarket camber arms, tension rods, coilovers, radiator, etc.

Then again, I'll be adding two small subwoofers and an amp, and have things like a big-ass FMIC and 3" exhaust. so they won't be light.

So what other basic weight-saving measures can be taken? I don't want to go nuts, but if there's something I don't need I want to know about it. Rob (Black Beast) mentioned to me there's a whole lot of crap underneath the dash that can simply... go?

Is it a realistic thought to get to 1,500 KG or under?

-A

PS: If anyone's wondering why I'm making a lot of information-seeking threads, it's because my Z32 project will be meeting a rather significant financial kick pretty soon. I want to be as informed as I can be so I don't have to do anything twice because I made a stupid mistake.

 

Lose the washer bottle. If it's full of water that's 1kg per litre... Or thereabouts.

 

Interesting thought, but I'd miss that. You've given me another reason to do a rear wiper + motor delete though... wonder what that would save?

 

Just weight my new wheels (with tyres fitted).

Stock: 18.4 kg
My fronts (18 x 9.5 w/ 235's): 21.4 kg
My rears (19 x 10 w/ 265's): 25 kg

 

Get a slicktop its under 1500kg stock haha

 

EGR completely removed? It can be done with engine in, however painful.
Complete AIV lines deleted from the front pipes.
Boost solenoids and bracketing
Carbon Cannister
Intake ducting from underneath headlights to inner guards
EGT sensors removed, as well as the associated connection box underneath the console.
Bit of weight savings when removing all associated parts with the deletes.

Can understand a/c removal, if it wasnt functioning. Can be a costly to get it operational again. Personally, after having a properly working S2 setup, wont be deleting that again.

Rear wiper delete sheds a few kg's, especially with the associated weighted block in the hatch. Washer bottle removal includes front nozzles, you will regret...... i did.

Put your spare and tool set back in. Murphy's law will bite you when you drive to bumf$%k county, get a flat and have to ask a soy latte drinking skinny jean local for assistance.

Don't go too far to the point where you're sacrificing driveability for a slightly better power-weight ratio. The additional kg's can be compensated for with a few extra psi of boost, and after a while, you'll find your boost controller set more frequently to LOW rather than HI.... and you'll start to miss the creature comforts you removed.

 

What is the ultimate goal for this Zed mate? You really got me scratching my head these days...

MoulaZX

 

This is exactly my thoughts on the topic.

MoulaZX

 

Bold have already been done. The other two are excellent ideas... thanks!

What do you need to do when you remove the carbon canister?

what's EGT?

I'm a big advocate of taking the roof off. In my last NA, which was my daily for 14 months through a ridiculously hot summer saw extremely little AC use despite being fully functional. I just don't use it, so it made sense to remove it while the engine was out.

Bold done as well. The rear wiper and motor I could possibly live without, though I do use it and I remember when I got a shaved brazilian on my NA it pissed me off in the rain that I couldn't wipe the rear window. I won't be removing the front washer nozzles, they're too useful.

An amp is going to be going where the spare tyre was in the past. I've got a full set of spare OEM wheels with good tyres; when I go on long trips I'll take one with me.

Couldn't agree more. That's why I'm leaving all trim, sound system and the water reservoir... I'd miss them too much! Priorities obviously differ from person to person; only deleting what I'm comfortable with.

 

EGT sensors are the temp probes that mount in the rear of the cats. bring up the red dash warning light. terminal box for it is underneath the console, about the size of a cigarette pack. Purely a dash warning light, no ecu input.

More importantly, how does your VS system sound without the centre mufflers?
and source some bose enclosures for your system install. Makes a world of difference with sound quality. Am liking the 2+2 for system install. Amp fitted perfectly underneath hatch boards on front LH corner, retaining spare and tool sets.

 

To be the best it can be!

Short and sweet: flush & pretty and restored & reliable. and fast!

Recently I've been going through each facet of the car to make sure I'm improving every one of them;

Engine: all gaskets and hoses new, full bolt ons, high flow turbos, nistune, big rad. Sweet.
Interior: OEM Recaros, GReddy gauge pillar, din-installed ECU-talk, 300 km p/h dash, tweed all dyed black. Sweet.
Suspension: Aftermarket adjustable camber arms and tension rods, Tein coilovers all 'round, HICAS lockout/delete. Sweet.
Chassis: Front and rear strut braces, still not 100% on what else (as per thread). Lightening as much as I can.
Wheels: Aftermarket wheels, tyres and stud pattern adapters to fit them. Sweet.
Drivetrain: Good box and recently replaced diff, and 1-peice steel drive shaft. Sweet.
Exterior: Full respray with NA front bar and VeilSide wing, reconditioned and/or replaced mouldings. Sweet.
Brakes: Not 100% on those yet...

Italicized things aren't done yet. Make more sense now? :zlove:

Oh cool! Already cut them off from the undercarriage. I'll do that too.

My VS catback isn't on yet. When the engine goes back in with the new dumps, I'll bolt up the front pipes and take it to a shop to get the VS welded up.

 

Turbos and intercoolers and piping weigh a bit, probably 50 kg.

 

I remember from when I put on my FMIC and it was nowhere near heavy - not even with the aftermarket pipework to support it. Especially not overall when considering the weight taken off from losing the OEM SMIC's and their holding brackets.

 

How heavy was all the aircon stuff?

 

get a manual slicktop 2+0 :br:

 

Lighter wheels would make a big impact. Probably one of the biggest.

Carbon fibre hatch and perspex instead of glass? hehe

Smaller fuel tank?

Battery relocation to the boot is a good idea. So much weight at the front while not much at the back cant be good for traction??

I think you already took care of the biggest things. From this point on you would be spending mega $$$ to shave of weight and luxury that could be saved from going to the dunny before you drive

 

over 15kg in sound deadning ..

that will offset your 15kg doof doof stereo.

just turn the music up to eliminate road noise

 

Battery relocation to the boot is a good idea. So much weight at the front while not much at the back cant be good for traction??

Or you can get a 2+2 which has 51/49 weight distrbution

 

Battery relocations into the boot invariably alter the cars polar moment in both planes and altho do change front to rear bias, often at the cost of the all important turn-in and front to rear weight bias change on accelleration and braking. Not to mention the addition of a good kilo or two of heavy battery cable.
On a track car this matters. A road car dont even think about it.
Just saying.

Actually, apart from the actual mounted height of the battery, its well behind the front axle. Pretty good for a stock setup actually where the majority of batteries hang out over the front axle behind a headlight.

For mine with a 2+2, Id have all amps, batteries and other heavier stuff in place of the rear seat and on the floorpan.

Also, major change would be to ditch the big and heavy R233 diff and subframe and fit a lighter R200 NA arse end. Have to be a significant weight saving along with a much more useful (in a track environment) diff ratio.

L8r
E