so I start my Z at a friends place last night to drive somebody home. Things are... not good. It's... I think, misfiring. it just jumps back and forth and feels like it's trying to stall... at 40 km p/h. I pull over and cut the engine. It won't start. NRMA comes. Like last time, they're clueless. After a lot of grumbling, it starts. Take it around the block, it feels okay. NRMA departs, time to take that friend home. On the way I realise it's... different. the car's too smooth. I could let the clutch out way faster than normal and I'd get no kickback. I'd also lost a lot of power in first gear. Loss of power in general. Take it back to the friend's place, crash there. Start it up this morning, it's misfiring again. got to get her home. Worked out that over 2.5k RPM, the engine's "fine". So I rev it harder than usual and get... most of the way. Stalls at a roundabout a block away, and won't start. still there now. oh, and the exhaust pipes are black. help.
The exhausts could've just been painted with hi-temp resistant paint, don't stress about that. Are you still using a series 1 PTU? Check your CAS and AFM plugs, as well as all the injector and coilpack connectors.
Just got it started by putting the throttle wide open... cough, splutter. rough idle. shot out black smoke getting it home.
Good chance it might just be loose connections with the PTU, AFM or CAS. Also check all your Injector, TPS and Coil Pack connectors. EDIT: As PY5K3R mentioned.
How was it done? Soldered or with the connector set? If it was done soldered then one of the joins may have broken or partially broken especially if it was not also relocated. Just another thing to check really. Better of taking it to your local Zed guy for his opinion . . . .
Bummer, In that case I would suggest what everyone else has been saying then. Check all electrical connections (especially your s2 ptu install) and clean them, even if they dont look like they need cleaning. Injector connectors, sensor connectors, EVERY connector that can be cleaned should be cleaned. Do them one by one so you know where to put them back. Clean them by using a needle file on the small steel parts then spray them with some kind of electrical component cleaner. For some reason Nissan kicked pretty good ass in all areas EXCEPT for their connectors. LOL. Check your coil packs one by one, this can give you an idea of if it is a CP or PTU problem. Have one coil pack removed at a time and have someone turn it over while the coil pack end sits against a metal part of the car (part of the plenum will do) If there is spark then that CP is fine and so is that particular PTU line. Tighten up all your hoses and check for any that need replacing while you are there. Its not much but its worth doing now and then. (Boost / vacuum leaks etc) There has gotta be some forum members there in Sydney that are willing to help? Oh wait, its Sydney . . . thats right (LOL). Chrispy and drz400y seem to know a lot, PM one of them or perhaps they will reply here. Peace
when you say clamp connectors do you mean these? if so then remove and solider them in, or get a plug and play loom also isnt oconnertelevision (spelling?) a zed mechanic in geelong area now?
These soldier sleeves are what used to rebuild my loom they are the best product I could find for joining wires in an engine bay. You need a heat gun to use them. They soldier the connection together while forming a heat shrink water tight seal around the wire. MILES better than all those shitty crimp connectors and others used by idiot car electricians. The middle ring is soldier, the outer rings are hot glue, and the clear tube is heat shrink. A Similar product to what the USA military use called ray chem soldier sleeves but cheaper and can actually be purchased in this country. I get mine from this guy about 80c each http://www.larpro.com.au/larpro/category/163
:rofl: I can't add too much to Mr. Gecko's comments. Yep, check for faults. You checked the AFM connector? Clean and retention see if that helps. Swap it out if you have a spare.
Dropped the car at the mechanic's this morning (it was in need of a general service anyway) with a list of what everyone suggested and a wiring diagram for a series 2 PTU. We'll see what the verdict is. Cheers y'all.
we good. picked it up this afternoon. Mech checked all the electrics, specifically the PTU connections, and couldn't find any faults. Gave it a service with plugs (on request), oil filter, air filter and fluids (done the oil myself already). Purring like a dream.
seems like changing the spark plugs fixed your problem. what other symptoms did yours have? i finally got to drive mine today after front end repairs. it hadn't been started since the accident over a month ago. when we started it i was in shock: - black smoke (LOTS of it), - struggling to idle sitting at just above 500rpm and rough as, although the shaking has come down a bit since warmed up, - throttle feels like its a bit on/off i.e. hardly any response in the first cm or 2 of travel. - there are no engine check lights on, although on the way home i noticed the cat temp light came on for about 5secs after getting off the freeway and i dont have ecutalk - its on safety boost. did yours have the same symptoms? i may try changing the plugs and see how i go. if that doesnt fix it, i'll be on the hunt for a local zed guy EDIT: exhaust pops occassionally... cant think of anything else.
i dont have ecutalk sorry for thieving the thread. i didnt open another thread assuming my symptoms are very similar to anti's and therefore could be a related issue. EDIT: got a set of plugs. i'll replace them tomorrow to see if that was it, as i havnt changed them since purchase and the previous owner gave me nothing of its history. if that doesn't fix it, i'll be hunting down an ecutalk to find out if its the afm as that could have been damaged in the accident. do the symptoms point at all at the afm? i wouldnt think it would react so severely with a bad afm.
