Nah, have bit the bullet Taken it to a mech that was recomended to me. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ here's hoping.:bash:
Problem Solved Wiring to injecter connecters shotty, moisture in 1,3,5 need to be replaced at some stage. Also thers always that also................... 2 bolts on intake manifold are threaded so there leaking, this is not a good thing. Anyway running on all 6 for the momment, will save some tlc money.
Help I had some time today to find out what is wrong with my friends TT auto . A while back the power cut out when she was getting warm. Now it is all the time.. I was told it could be the PTU or the AFM, but took them both out and tested on my car. No problem. I had almost given up for the day when I made sure everything was sitting probably. I realised that the thing in the red circle was loose. (Is that what you guys call injectors? ) Anyway I press it down, took it off and put it back on again. I realised it didn't make any change to the idle at all, so I assume that the car only runs on 5 cylinder Which also explains why the cat light comes on after running it for a while. It was to dark to do anything about it today, so I left it there. Guess my next step is to find out if it is an electric problem or a engine problem? Can I put an voltmeter on the thing in the red circle to find out if it is working or not? I beleive it supply power for the sparkplug? Please help Christian
The thing inside the red circle is a coil pack connector. If you took the connector of and it made no difference to the idle, your problem is possibly found, but no solved. http://tech.aus300zx.com/Zdriver_engine_mis-fire_tests.doc
Few simple questions from a newbee 1 How do you check that the cas is 15 degrees? 2 Which ones are the injectors and where do I find them. Been seaching for 45 min and I can't find the answers. Christian
well you might be lucky You mentioned the car ran well in the past, and then experienced some intermittent power loss before permanent loss (which was somehow blamed on warming up of the engine). Intermittent problems are almost always electrical. Most important is that when you pulled that plug's power the engine revs didn't change pointing to that cylinder being dormant in some way (fuel or fire). You might be lucky, if its the coil pack connector then a clean should do it. To answer some of your questions the best i can; *Yes that connector supplies power to the spark plug, by way of the coil pack. *Checking timing usually done with timing light but don't be concerned too much with that I don't see how that can easily and intermittently change. *Injectors are just nearby each coil pack they have two wires going to each. Remember the more you tinker the more damage you can do. First do no harm. Many of the plastic connectors will be brittle so easily damaged. It is typical to replace the coil pack connectors at some point, cazracing has a set of them available if yours are getting shabby. Also you will find at some point that you are totally frustrated and sick of lengthy null diagnoses, this is because you have almost no gauges to work off. Get yourself connected to the comm port of the car so you can see whats going on soooooo much better. I use ecutalk software on a PPC with a blazt cable from cazracing, costs under $100. In my case in 2 weeks it had already paid for itself in saved fuel cost. and a question; it it reaching full 9psi boost or only 6psi? I am referring to safety boost mode. Also usually caused by an electrical fault, of the detonation sensor. and also very easily bypassed or repaired.
Thanks alot... I have a idea it must be the CAS there is the problem, as the coil pack connection looks alright. I onlyy just found out how to do a ECU test, so I will see if that gived me anything first. I don't think it is the cylinder, otherwise I wouldn't have experienced it was running sweet when cold back then. I assume it must be a electric problem, and that it have given up totally now and thats why it constantly runs on 5 cylinder now. Not sure about the boost, don't want to run it to hard when not well Cool. I have a PDA PPC. Where can I buy the program? Cheers Christian
If the coilpack connector was disconnected then 95% likely that you have found the original cause and now you have fixed that, the original cause (no spark due to the connector being off) has now caused the spark plug to become fouled from the fuel injector spraying fuel into the cylinder and nothing igniting it. My money would be on removing the spark plug and see if it's all black and wet...
Thanks that would be a quick thing to test, I will do that first and see it futher actions needs to be done.
