Knocking/Shudder after New Clutch Install

Discussion in 'Technical' started by danozgriff, Feb 23, 2007.

  1. danozgriff

    danozgriff New Member

    Hi,

    I recently had a new clutch put in, and I am now getting a shudder or knocking under load (up to 4000rpm, then above is fine) mostly noticable in 2nd gear but also present in 1st and third gears. There is no vibration/knocking whilst cruising or at higher speeds

    Feels as though its coming from below my seat aka. tailshaft area but, I highly doubt the tailshaft bearing all of a sudden wore out overnight after a simple clutch install... I am thinking maybe gearbox mount? However when reattaching the gearbox - wouldn't the servicer have noticed worn g/b mounts? Is a worn g/b mount noticable?

    He has simple written written under the "Things to Note" "Center Bearing of Tailshaft cause of knocking in driveline"

    Basically I wish to know what could have changed as a result of the Clutch Install to cause this problem

    Cheers :D
     
  2. zx299

    zx299 Well-Known Member

    Re : Knocking/shudder....

    Your old clutch could have been slipping but your new one is holding and therefore transferring the full load to the tailshaft and showing up the bad uni's. Could also be the g/box mount, it doesn't have to be shredded to be ineffective.
     
  3. danozgriff

    danozgriff New Member

    That could definately be a possibility. My old clutch was really worn.

    So possibility a uni joint problem? Are they serviceable or replaceable?

    I should also add that the shudder/vibration is virtually non existent with a person in the passenger seat..
     
  4. ports

    ports the pro

    Replaceable yes, serviceable no (I think). :cool:
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2007
  5. danozgriff

    danozgriff New Member

    Just as a subquestion. Does anyone know if z32 Turbo driveshafts can be used in NA's and same with auto driveshafts in manuals.. do they all use the same driveshaft?
     
  6. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    No, there all different, a different one for each combination of Z...

    The TT ones have CV joints on the diff end and the NA's have a 3rd uni. The Auto/manual/2+0/2+2 are all different lengths
     

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