Ok, took the car in to get UDP installed called for a status update and was told the following I Thought cat(s) were bad, found exhaust leak instead Conzult brings up errors with cooling fan circuit (possibly a relay) & egr circuit Apparently a couple of plenum bolts were overtightened (this is on engine rebuilt 2500km ago) - they applied Locktite ("should hold it") Boost leaks from RHS inlet hose, left turbo hose? and something mentioned about a pressure regulator was told belts supplied with UDP were the wrong size!! surprised about cats being ok, lindsay was pretty sure drivers side cat was rattling last time, but this time he's not there and i was advised its exhaust leak... admitedly the loud rattle seems to have gone, so maybe the cat has exited? - could this cause issues with uneven flow? waiting to hear back for a more detailed list, but can anyone advise what i should be spending to deal with cooling fan relay, egr circuit (do i care about egr?). Can an exhaust leak just be welded? or does this mean new bits? Getting brake pads checked coz i think they are about gone, what should i expect to pay for new ones?
my advice... get the car back and do the work yourself if you can. I'm not saying this because the car is at zed shop, I say it to anyone with any mechanic, myself included. You'll save heaps of money and know its been done properly. Of course, if you're not comfortable, then you have no choice. a buggered cat will indeed cause bad exhaust flow. So make sure the cats are definetly ok. If in doubt, take off the CATS and look inside. as for the exhaust, usually they can be welded. But if the leak is due to rust, I would recommend getting new piping, at least for that bit that needs to be repaired. the EGR is a tough one, and once you start talking about electrical problems, this is where it can get expensive, because from experience, they are not always easy to solve and mechanics will spend hours trying to locate the problem which means big dollars for you. You may be lucky, and it may just be a dud temp sensor or relay in which case the fix is easy. As for the EGR, its up to you. Most people remove them with no consequence. Are you NA or TT?? I would not remove it on an NA. But its up to you. Cheers
at the moment my home mechanic abilities at the moment my home mechanic abilities are even more limited than usual... no garage - just a shared carparking area, no stands, no tools other than a couple of screwdrivers after moving countries, so anything significant does need to be at a mechanics at the moment and in so far as exhausts etc are concerned, getting the work done is cheaper than buying welding gear and learning to weld I'll get them to recheck the cats coz i'm pretty confident there is a problem there. EGR i'll leave unless they 'know' its simple. Boost leaks i can probably deal with at home, although i still need to get a compressor.
Ok, further update Apparently my brakes are fine , one relief. Belts from TTzed supplied with unorthodox racing UDP didn't fit - seems odd, anyone else had that experience? Exhaust leak is from a join, they are fixing this. I've succumbed to the pressure and installed the 350z oil pressure sender they keep hawking. Lower radiator hose is looking dodgy, they are getting me a quote on replacing (what should this cost) Front tyres are close to wear indicators, any recommendations? (17" 235's) Cooling fan circuit code problem showing up, Mechanics think this could be leading to some excess temps (obviously a concern) and suggest this could be related to Aircon compressor failure, relays etc seem to be fine so they suggest it could be the computer!!, they will test with another, then quote me on computer.... ? sound realistic?, How much should i be looking here? I've asked them to recheck the cats, and they will get back to me with more on the EGR (which may actually not be there, nissport may have removed from under plenum in rebuild), anyway shouldn't be a major concern.
Belts with underdrive pulley One of the belts in the UDP kit is mega tight and a PITA to fit. There is another size one thats much easier to fit on, then retighten again in about 2 weeks. Someone else will be able to recall the belt sizes/code i'm sure
I just paid $95 for a new lower rad hose. Not sure how much labour was as I had a heap of other work done at the same time.
i decided i wanted quick And might as well 'upgrade' at the same time, so i'm getting a Caz aluminium one, express posted should arrive at Z shop tomorrow. (thanks caz)
You are correct shifter, the power steering belt is very tight to fit because of limited movement of the pump, but every one I've fitted has gone on without a problem.
If its a GFB underdrive pulley, it comes with a piece of paper in the box telling you exactly what size belts to get for it. Cheers Marcus
Yeah, my PS pump belt was real tight sorta had to lever it on with a coupla screwdrivers, a bit dodgy but worked OK
damn ps belt I gave up trying to fit mine normally and removed the damn pulley... slipped the belt on then bolted it all back up!
