For anyone thinking about removing these system I have done so with no apparent effect on performance. I can't notice any difference after the removal. I disabled the EGR months ago but recently I did all of the engine bay components for the three systems. It only took about an hour but I had already loosened the gallery along the RH side of the motor during a plenum pull and I also left the canisters in place in the fender wells (this saved a lot of time). I used instructions meant for a LHD car so there were a few minor differences, mainly in the location of the solenoid valves on the engine bay sides.
no effect on performance?? HA!.. made my car a new beast (but my EGR was half blocked.. she only fired on 3 when it was on (light throttle) good move mate!..
Re EGR Removal but off an NA So has anyone removed their EGR system off their NA's? I've read conflicting accounts on other forums that because the NA's have a higher compression ratio that you can get problems? I've removed my EGR off my '83 Commodore without problems. I would really like to remove the EGR because if it starts leaking at idle it could cause problems with the air/fuel mixture and would cause erratic idle I think.
.. when i removed mine it got rid of a glunking noise after long drives.. cant remember if it made any difference.. other than removing the noise..
I have heard this too. A faulty EGR will cause pinging problems and the first thing that people usually tell you to check when you have pinging under light throttle conditions is the EGR. I had pinging problems a while back which I thought was due to the lack of my EGR. Although it may have contributed to it, I dont think its the sole cause.
Re Pinging I was following that thread on the old forum about your (or was it Graham (Tektrader)) (and I think someone else's) pinging problems and then the discussion came to an end without any apparent conclusion. So do you mind me asking you if you resolved your pinging problem and what was causing it?
It's also an easy way to save some weight and simplify all teh crap in the engine bay - less hoses is always a good thing!
less ho's the better yeah i have removed my aiv's and pvr's or what ever there called, engine bay is tidier, car is running well, no effects from the removal, havent done the egr yet, will be a future project. both were easy as piss once the wheels and inner guards were taken off.. dont think about it...just do it
It was a wierd thing to try and fix. I never really identified the problem. My own stuffing around showed that I could only get rid of the pinging by reducing the ignition timing. But without an aftermarket computer this was a global reduction which I was not happy about. So I went and had a UniChip installed with which the tuners were able to take out some timing in that problematic area (around 2500-3000 rpms, light throttle) and fine tune and enhance the rest of the fuel and timing maps. Ended up with more power and no pinging. The only time I heard it ping after that was on News Years eve last year where the temp was 42 degree's in Melb. The tuner said that it is quite common for zeds to ping in that area because the timing goes up to about 40 degree's under those light throttle positions. The other thing that Graham and I discovered was that the J-spec ECU was more prone to pinging than the aus-spec ecu. Analysis of the timing map showed that the J-spec ran more timing in that problematic area, which obviously wasnt a problem in Japan because they have higher octane fuel. I think the other contributing factor to my pinging may have been the head work I had done when the engine was rebuilt. This is just a guess of course with no real proof, but all my problems with pinging started about a month after my rebuild. I think a combination of the headwork and the ecu program it was running at the time contributed significantly to my probs. Whether the comp ratio was too high, or the porting caused a sharp edge to be present in the combustion chamber I dont know. And will probably never know until my engine comes apart again, hopefully not for a long time.. Cheers
Re Pinging Thanks for your reply Jedi and I am glad you have sorted your problem - so annoying when you have something like that. I have an Auspec NA and I haven't had any pinging problems but was wondering if you had gotten yours because of your EGR removal but I am not sure that that is the case although I have read that the EGR system reduces combustion chamber temperatures. This conflicts with what is stated in the workshop manual and my Commodore manual where it says that the EGR system is turned OFF for unusually high engine temperatures (based on coolant temperature). Thanks again for the reply. Cheers. Clive.
I had a mild port done along with some larger valves put in. Unfortuneatly, at the time, this really didnt translate to any significant power increase on the dyno when compared to other NA zeds. At the time when the head work was done, I remember having the gut feeling that the whole process was rushed to get the engine back together quickly. One thing I have learnt is that head work should not be rushed (i dont mean that in a sexual way). Once again, I have no proof of this, its just a gut feeling. Cheers
Just a small thing I found during AIV/PRVR Removal The instructions I had didn't mention a spare hose (very fine) going to a small box on the RH engine bay wall near the brake booster. Its the sensor for the stock boost guage, so you need to run a 5mm vacuum hose from there to the now vacant port on the balance tube (about 20 -30 cm).
Exactly the information I was looking for! Search is good for something after all I've been removing all this stuff myself obviously and it was pretty straight forward, except for the instructions being for left hand drive. Just 2 questions left now if anyone can help me out. 1 - what do I do with the small hose coming from the bottom of the drivers side throttle body now that it's got nowhere to go? 2 - what is the round cannister right down below where the various solinoids were in the corner? Can this be removed? Basically i'm trying to clear room to fit the engine pre-luber that is on it's way. TIA Ben
Here's a before and after of complete EGR removal. Plug and hide the throttle body hose, i dont know what you mean about the canister Actually a good shot of the under plenum by-pass as well
Thankyou, I haven't gone as far as the EGR gear removal, i've only removed the solonoid thus far. But an interesting thing is the car from japan already had the vacuum line that goes to the egr controller plugged, so it was not operating anyway. I have not looked yet to see if the egr setup is actually there but i'm guessing it probably will be. Will find out soon enough. With regards to the cannister: where the stock boost gauge controller is, along with the egr and aiv solonoids, and just below that is the blinker controller thingy, then below that right down the bottom is a cylindrical cannister lying on it's side along the firewall. It's about 10 - 12 cm long from memory. I remember having to move it to get some cables through the firewall not too long ago. There is a pretty hefty vac line going down near it, i'm not sure if it actually goes to it but it looks like it does. Does this help? I'll snap a pic this arvo if needed. Regards Ben
