Well I towed my TT home from the docks last tuesday (11/May/2004).Here's a list of things I've noticed so far that is wrong with it:- First problem was some new light damage to the nose cone. My nose cone is an aftermarket plastic-fantastic, not the original.- The battery was dead (and dried out) so I replaced it. The car starts and runs, but kinda rough.- Oil looks pretty black, and the radiator fluid not green at all - not a good sign of a well serviced car..- No headlight wiring! Literally the plugs were cut right off the loom. I've reconnected them now but which light is low beam and which is high beam? Those little lenses on the outside don't seem to put out much light at all, even with brand new 100watt globes!- Low power steering fliud. The HICAS light was coming on quite a buit while driving around.- The car wanders all over the road, Aye Currumba! Looking under the front end, both tension rod ball joints are cracked and leaking oil. Replace these eh? Where to buy replacements and what might the cost be? Is eurothane the way to go here? Any special tools required?- After a bit of semi-heavy acceleration, the steering becomes very heavy, even at slow speed. Seems the only way to make the steering go light again is to stop and restart the engine.- occasionally stalls at idle- occasionally idles at 1200-1500 rpm even when at full operating temp- On occassion after flooring the accelerator, the engine stalls (not all the time though)- I've done an ECU mode II test and it flashes 1-2 (airflow meter). I've tested the AFM according to the online manual and it checks fine. Perhaps it's intermitantly playing up, or perhaps the problem is in the loom somewhere between the AFM and the ECU. Boy I hope not!Well it's been a busy weekend and I've learned a lot from this forum so thanks everybody.The car is heading in to Ultimate Performance Imports in Morrabin, Melbourne on Tuesday for the compliance work. Cost will be aronnd $1400. Can anybody recommend them or somebody else in Melbourne (Preferably North or North West suburbs)Any of you live in or around Sunbury? I've seen 2 or 3 300's around here..Thanks again and hope to hit the streets soon.Adrian adrian@webactivation.com.au
WoW that sounds like a mighty unhappy Z Firstly I would be Cleaning all the major Eletrical connectors (or replacing if bad enough) looking for corrosion on the: Injector connectors, PTU, CAS, TPS, AFM And Have your injectors tested, and ONLY USE BP ULTIMATE OR SHELL OPTIMAX.Plus make have the Timing checked. Make sure the Air filter is clean (obvious) Clean the throttle bodies + new Fuel filter Have the Radiator flushed and RODDED!! Check out your ECU for signs of tampering, a sticker to indicate its been chipped or perhaps something dodgy change the oil, check spark plugs and HAVE A COMPRESSION TEST DONE RIGHT AWAY (and pray for the best) The HICAS light would most likley be a leak in the power steering pump or in the rack (common) I had mine rebuilt to fix this problem too, but it could also be the Hicas rods have worn out as they are in mine, according to my mechanic they are in a constant state of movement Make sure the 100K service has been done Have someone run a Conzult on it for you (one of the members close to you is sure to have it) Good luck, I hope things work out for the best 8( Anything Ive forgotten? :s
UPI is not bad i had my car complianced there. But make sure you get decent cats put on. the cats that they had installed on my car were rubbish. Dean is always friendly and happy to help with any issues. Bad luck about the car Aido. Where did you import it from ie which broker? Why do you ned to comply a 89 mdl? i thought these would fall under the 15 yr rule by now.Stan
Well not complianced, just the simple stuff Thanks, I'm taking it to Dean at UPI tommorrow.15 year old cars don't need "compliance" plates but most of the same work is performed:- new seat belts front and rear - new cats - side-intrusion bars - side mirrors flat - petrol filler restictorsome minor stuff too.
Idleing high, probly TPS Mine did the same. I jiggled the TPS and it fixed it. also my airflow meter was screwed and was intermitantly playing up. usually worked when it was cold or for the first 5 minutes of driving. Theres a guy in Moorabbin that fixes AFM's, might be an option, let me know if you want his number. i know of a good Z mechanic, meticulous motors. its in boundary rd braeside not far from Moorabbin. Also Nispares in bayswater are cheap for parts. Im in Cheltenham dont know that much about Z's but if you need to know where to reconnect wires to or something like that you can check on my car, Or just go to WYKKED's tech day on the 13th of June. Goodluck with it
Phone number of AFM guy in Morrabin? I'd like to give the AFM repair guy a ring. I'm dropping my car off at UPI in Morrabin tomorrow so I might drop in to see him.Thanks
Does this mean 15 year plus cars can be preped for rego by any mechanic? I would imagine that would be cheaper too, as long as the mechanic knows what they are on about.Thanks for the email reply too Adrian.Cheers Geoff
AFM guy Allan 0417519250 I cant remember what the business is called. They mainly do AFM's there and have all the testing equiptment
Anybody can do the work.. Straight from the PrestigeMotorsports.com.au emails:An allowance of up to $1,200 should also be made on top of this price for the minor items required to be addressed under the 15 year rule prior to registration. These can be done by anyone, and may include retractable seatbelts for rear seats, sun visors, child restraint points on the rear parcel shelf for cars with rear seats, high level brake light, driver's side mirror to be changed from convex to flat, unleaded fuel filler opening restrictor, side intrusion bars, engineer's certificate, and a new set of tyres if the Japanese tyres are worn out.
Also... Theres a chance he wont be able to fix it. Mine couldnt be fixed but it was cracked thru, might have had something to do with collecting skippy the Z jumping bush kangaroo at 110ks
15 year old imports must be signed off by an engineer, however anyone can do the compliance work. It's a lousy situation though, an engineer might charge $200 for labour and $500 to sign off a car he's done himeself (as he doesn't really need to 'inspect' the car as he knows what's been done), or $700 to sign off a car someone else has done the work on.... doesn't help much either way. I think in reality they do it this way so they get more work for themselves, but such is life.15 year old compliance requirements are acutally state based, for example I think (don't quote me on this) an engineer may not have to sign off a car in SA if it's a commercial vehicle (category MA) or if there are no intrusion bars added.We've had a few clients try to comply cars themselves but it can be problematic.... some engineers will not sign off if something is done in a different way to how they would, even if it should pass. For example in my Z (not that it's a 15 year old import) I have 2 sets of intrusion bars, as engineer A would not accept bars engineer B put in!If you wish to perform the compliance work yourself on a 15 tear import, I would strongly recommend talking to the engineer who you will get to sign off your car prior to doing any work and make sure he has told you what is required and what he will look for. If you just turn up doing the things which are supposed to be done you may run into trouble.The above covers 15 year old and personal imports, for a SEVS (less than 15 year old import) compliance MUST be done by a licensed RAWS workshop.Ben
Is this Nissport..... you are reffering to??? They are zed mechanics and are on boundary rd, in braeside.Cheers
