Hi all, I'm a tad stumped. Recently sold my chipped NA ECU and the member who bought it says the car won't start. ECU has an NA auto base map, code is 40P10 which is the oldest version (JUL 1989 to NOV 1989) His is a 1991 NA auto with 40P13 ECU (AUG 1990 up to AUG 1992) Far as I can tell they are both still series 1 (8 bit) which means it should work. Only thing I can think of is maybe when I had a re-tune, the tuner removed the auto base code. I don't believe so but it was a long time ago. Anyone near Ipswich QLD with a series 1 NA (1989 or 1990) willing to help out myself and member apegrip and see if the ECU will start your zed? Preferably a manual zed as this ECU has been used in my manual zed and JEDI's manual zed in the past. The auto base code should still be in there, if you use it in a manual zed it should throw code 54 which is auto trans related. It shows code 55 in apegrip's zed which is all clear however it just won't start.
First I've ever heard of that being an issue. I've put early and later (all 8 bit) ecus into a '93 zed with no issues.
I have a spare NA AT ECU from a 1990 we could play with if that helps? Also have a 1989 Manual NA we can use... am at Silkstone
Sweet. (I'm that silver zed you saw at repco a few weeks ago ) If you could send me a PM maybe we could sort something out to test if you're up for it?
Lot of guessing here but: Sound like he has converted to manual and hasn't fixed up the trans wiring yet and hence the no start The ECU should be compatible and work just fine - there is no reason why not. Make sure he has checked the Earth connections as well I fear swapping the ECU will do little - unless its blown up :zlove: JC
Probably stupid to say this: Did you try reseating the ECU into the connector - they can be notorious to get all the pins connected Sorry - just scratching my head here thinking the ECU switch (ones you mentioned) should make no difference JC
Yep tried reseating it about 10 times and checked connectors to make sure that none were bent or anything.
Code 55. Can hear it cranking but not actually start. Plugged old one back in and starts like normal.
Manual ecu will still work in an auto zed. Shifts just won't be as graceful as the atcu can't pull all the data it needs from a manual ecu. Maybe the post man dropped it and damaged a dry solder joint or something.
Sorry .............for the questions.......understand now. It does sound like the ECU got dropped by the postie.......... Sometimes they can break at the solder joints after a drop - in this case it would be related to the relevant transmission line (re: ECU coloured diagram) They can be very fine to see / or only seen under some flexing of the joint. It might pay to open the ECU up and check the relevant pins and back If you see such a fine line/ split or crack - just touch it with a fine solder iron to reconnect it - I have fixed many electrical components over the years doing this (machines sometimes don't use enough solder or put to much - lol) Seems another ECU won't help fix the issue You need to test that ECU instead Cheers JC
:zlove: Sure - do you have the coloured ECU pinout diagram I posted previously ? My ECU diagnostics paper states that its likely the actual problem is the ECU connector/pin or lead (from the pin) and not in the ECU circuitry itself (as I said earlier - so keep this in mind - you still have to open the ECU to check the solder joints though) "The A/T communication line is open or shorted" That's the one your looking for - look for the A/T communication pin in the ECU diagram Check the pin is not slightly bent at the connection (single pins can be a real Biatch in making connection!!) and that it is a good joint as well (no fine cracks at the boards and leads) You could also jump from "wire to wire" bypassing the pins to eliminate them altogether and from end to end to see where the open or shorted line is - my money is on an open circuit in the pins! (given you did not play with the trans- which also means your ECU is still good) The Dallas Z ECU diagnostics guide states "Check Harness and Connector" You need to check all wires and pins that relay from the AT trans to the ECU - These are pins 14 15 40 44 56 If you send me a pm and I can send you the ECU - up close diagram - which shows you the pins and colours your looking for. Hope that helps Cheers JC
All the joints look fine to me, any more suggestions? Edit: I've fixed computer components by chucking them in the oven for a while so that the points get reconnected, but there looks to be a lot of heat sensitive parts inside so maybe not an option. Edit 2: didn't see your edit, pm'ing you now.
This will help! ECCS diagram - follow the trail between the Auto Comms connector and the ECU - 5 wires Looking at them means nothing really as I have seen joints that have looked really good yet were clearly open! Check them one at a time with a multimeter or even a piece of jumper wire and guarantee you will have the answer by then !
Sorry - I assume people often know a little about elecs when their fiddling with ECU's :rofl: Soz Be careful with electronics - make sure you only contact the pin in questions - otherwise it's quite easy! These can make it easy - its really quite simple if your careful and safe There are many you tube "how to" continuity test with a multimeter but this is a simple version I found - if your still not sure - look up some more https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wslo0QSrs58 Once you have done a continuity test once - you will see how easy, very simple and handy it is! You only need to continuity test and then signal test the 5 AT wires from the connector side to the ECU - one of them is shorted or open - shorted will normally be evident by a blown fuse or arcing so my bet is that it is open..... That will identify and confirm where the fault is regardless (the first step in diagnosing) If one or more pins shows continuity break - there is your problem sitting in the connectors. If all show continuity then one or more signals is at fault from the AT or ECU - in this case a signal voltage test will tell you whether the ECU or AT is at fault Should take 5 minutes with a multimeter to find the fault Just trying to save you a heartache in time, money and other Z's by getting you straight to the problem - these problems can be a nightmare and go on unresolved for a long time doing it any other way Cheers JC :zlove:
