Auto Trans 1st to 2nd. Normal or not?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by apegrip, Sep 30, 2014.

  1. apegrip

    apegrip New Member

    Hey guys,

    I've noticed a potential problem. I've been searching the subject for an hour but no one seems to have the symptoms I have, so I'm stuck. Basically, the shift between first and second (Only going up, not down) is...uh..well you can feel it. I wouldn't call it jerky or hard and the revs do not stick or differ from what happens when changing to other gears. It changes normal other than it being noticeable you're changing between those gears, the other gears, from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 and all the way down to 1 are fine. I would describe it as if you're using gears to slow down in a manual, bot in the opposite direction in terms of feeling. Not rough, but noticeable. There is no audible clunk or anything, it's silent. I'm wondering if anyone else is the same? I've never had another Z before so I cannot compare it to anything and there seems to be nothing online relating to the issue. I have checked the trans fluid (after a 5 minute drive), it was very low, so I've topped that up. The gears seem to be smoother now, but it's still noticeable. I've only been for a 10 minute drive after topping it up. Does it take a while to set in or something? I checked it again after topping it up to make sure the fluid wasn't burnt. It was fine. I read a post online saying "All nissans I've owned changing between 1st and 2nd are rough" but if that's a truthful statement or not I'm unsure. I also read that the solenoids could be the problem, but I don't think so compared against the symptoms of what others are saying.

    Anyway sorry for the long post, I'd just like some opinions.
     
  2. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    I definitely feel the change between 1st and 2nd. The change is at 4K unless I ease off earlier.
    If I adjust my TPS voltage to 0.18v (that is what it was when I got the car back from a mechanic) the change was a lot smoother and earlier. I was told it should be 0.44v, but that had trouble shifting, so I adjusted it to 0.34v. It doesn't feel harsh, about the same as my other Jap cars, Toyota and Mazda, but not as smooth or whiney as the old man's 2001 Commodore V6.

    My fluid is a bit high, but the car changes gear fine, so that is how it is. I will fiddle with it when I get around to testing my TPS.
     
  3. grantd

    grantd Member

    Do an auto trans self diagnostic test, think its in the factory service manual from memory. It will tell you if your solenoids and sensors are working within specs.
     
  4. apegrip

    apegrip New Member

    That makes me feel a little better. I think I'm just being paranoid. My mothers impreza is smooth with its gear transitions along with my grandads hilux. My 300zx feels different to both so I was concerned. My change happens around then aswell, unless I sink the pedal a bit or lay off, the change is less noticeable toward the lower RPM's and the Higher, around the middle is when it's more noticeable. Is yours the same?

    Just went down stairs and checked it then. 1 long flash followed by 10 quick flashes which indicate everything is fine, electronically.
     
  5. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    Don't forget the Z32 was a very expensive vehicle when new, it was also very well engineered.
    The transmission should not be clunky in an any gear.
    How long since the transmission was last serviced?
    If you don't know, or are unsure, have it serviced!
     
  6. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    Nope, if I plant my foot (I never really PLANT) it will change around 4K, I usually lift off before then and it changes to 2nd.
    If I drop my TPS voltage back down to 0.18v (a mechanic put it on that) the change from first to second is a lot smoother. I put it up to 0.34v
    You might have an auto that prefers a lower TPS voltage setting, if everything else is OK you can try adjusting the TPS lower.
    You will need a couple of dress maker pins pushed into back of the tps plug to make contact and use a multimeter to measure that voltage. Loosen both TPS mounting bolts so you are rotating on the shaft (and not forcing at a skew angle). Tighten after adjusting and unplug for 20 seconds to let the ECU normalise.
    That works for me.
     
  7. apegrip

    apegrip New Member

    Apparently it was just serviced before I bought it, according to my dads friend who we bought it off. They said it cost about $1000, so I'm assuming the transmission was included in that. However when I checked the transmission fluid it was low so I'm unsure, or the people they serviced it with didn't run it warm when refilling it...


    When I floor(ed) it, the power mode comes on and that's when the RPM's change for me. I don't do this often mind you, just wanted to test it out when I first got it. But anyway, looks confusing for me to change the TPS. I could probably do it but I don't have a multimeter and just more hassle for me to deal with (Exam time at Uni :( :( ). Is there any issue with leaving it? I don't really mind it if it's doing no harm, I just want to look after my Z and don't want things dying a slow death haha.
     
  8. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

  9. apegrip

    apegrip New Member

    Yeah I found that post before, didn't really give me much. Thank you for linking though. Mind if I PM you? Rather than me post here all the time with 5 million questions haha.
     
  10. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    [TIS] couldn't find the thread I was looking for, but this is someone who can vouch for the auto fluid level.
     
  11. apegrip

    apegrip New Member

    Going to try changing the voltage this weekend. Will post back here with results. Hopefully this will give others searching the problem a fix.
     
  12. BADZX

    BADZX Grumpy old fart



    Get the **** thing serviced, its telling you it needs a new filter and new trans fluid



    when was the last service it had ?????
    every 2 years is a BARE minimum :eek:
    I bet you change the engine oil every 3 months or 5000K's tho
    :rofl:
     
  13. apegrip

    apegrip New Member

    I'm a new owner and as I said in the previous posts apparently the last service was right before I bought it, which was last month. I might service the trans specifically again to make sure when I get money aswell..
     
  14. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    Most sellers would tell you that they have serviced the vehicle. That usually means that they have topped up the fluids. In your case it seems that they didn't top up the Auto Transmission. I wouldn't believe a seller (unless a forum member ;) maybe)

    When I bought my car I took it to a mechanic that my family used and asked him to do Engine and diff oil and also drop auto trans pan and change oil. He did engine and diff, but checked the trans oil and said it was brand new so he didn't open or change it.
    So if you haven't got spare cash ATM and don't drive much, you can check the transmission oil by looking at the dip stick (follow instructions below) and decide whether to top it up or it needs a service/change filter and ATF fluids.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    We'll see in 2 months?

    [​IMG]
     
  16. apegrip

    apegrip New Member



    The people we bought it off were friends and had a mechanic that we also know look at it. As in an all over look to make sure everything is all good, so I'm inclined to believe them, maybe things were overlooked. But anyway, here's a photo. I topped this up when I first made the post, so a couple of days ago. I put in about a litre. Since then I have driven about 30-40KM and this is the colour. What do you think? Doesn't smell burnt, just smells like a mechanics work shop haha.
    [​IMG]




    I will, I promise :p
     
  17. BADZX

    BADZX Grumpy old fart

    :rolleyes:

    did you read the auto trans for dummies quote ??

    :D

    It needs a filter and new oil, often, some "mechanics" will add an auto conditioner (wynns for example), this will help in releasing gunk deposits and often 'enhance' the oil color, what it really does is release gunk that heads straight to the filter and clogs it up.
    Once the filter is unable to feed the required volume of oil then the box starts doing odd things, as that volume of oil flow slowly falls away then you get even worse problems until either the box fails completely (insert big bangs n clanking sounds) or it simply stops working (if your lucky)

    I had one here ~2years ago, didn't have enough 'drive' to get into the shed, a new filter and oil saved the owner the cost of a replacement box, he was lucky !

    My wife's zed however did the clank n grindy thing, a blown cooler hose was the culprit (& she who doesn't look at the gauges/dash had nothing to do with it)
    :rofl:

    Oh...
    ya pic.....
    looks dirty and burnt to me
    ;)
     

Share This Page