My heater core has decided that it no longer wants to stop water escaping... ;-) OK, did the searches, found lots of info on bypassing, but can't find info on fixing it. So, anyone done it? How big a job? Any hints / shortcuts? Cost of a new core? Not interested in bypassing. Can't stand having stuff in a car that doesn't work. Thanks in advance. Simon.
Buy this: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=331091&highlight=heater+core then check tech section for the heater core replacement article
i did mine in the car as per the tech section notes, its an auto which helps (no clutch pedal) took me 3.0 hrs to do it. (the second time) my leak was the not the core but the tap, my tip remove drivers seat if doing it this way replace the tap and o rings as well. Purge your system of air, take your time make sure the heater is turned on full.
OR.....Save yourself some money by buying a new core from your local NATRAD outlet and save yourself around $50(you will need that for the tranquillizers you will surely consume when you embark on the replacement procedure).:zlove::br:
Go to the "Tech " section of this forum and... type the word "Heater". Many to choose from I chose to remove the dash which removes the AC gas but a lot easier with dash out. A lot of stuff to remove. Not difficult but time consuming the first time. I took lots of Pics and re-inserted screws and bolts once I removed them. The problem with this is that you must remember to remove them when re-assembling. I also took the time to re glue the dash lining near the windscreen area of the dash and fix some broken plastic parts also and clean the loom. Also relined the foam sealing on the heater flaps / doors as the foam crubled when touched. MichaelZ
I would also recommend doing it dash-in, seat-out. A head torch and a torch that you can fit up around the pedals and get it to stay will help. Pull out all the air ducting from under the drivers side, pull out the clutch pedal and its not too hard from there.
Done it, its a big job. Dash out, torture of getting at the pipes at the back of the engine. Here's my heater core replacement adventure from years ago http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249630&highlight=heater+core
Thanks guys. Don't know why, but I always forget about the tech section. I did search the posts first though Ordered the Lancer heater core (now there's a great tip!) Going to try it Dash in and see how it goes.... Cheers, Simon.
It's not too bad once you figure it out (and get the bolts that hold the pipes in), if you were closer I'd be happy to lend a hand. Just be patient and if you get stuck come back here and ask.
I dont remember why.... I did but from memory it was easier to do or there was not enough hose to leave the evaporator connected. MichaelZ
What a pain in the ****. Seat out - definitely makes the job easier... Clutch pedal out (mongrel of a job to get it out). That's gonna be fun to put back in.... Heater pipes off.... After scratching the crap out of my hands, struggling to get to things, trying to get off in one piece..... and finally cutting the pipes off. 25 years on, they weren't moving fast. Bugger all room to move hands in there, and did the designers deliberately put sharp stuff around there or what?!?! Managed to get the rubber grommet out after lots of struggle. At that point, left it for the day. That was around 3-4 hours of frustration.... Gotta say, did they never expect anyone to have to fix these?
I luckily discoverd mine was leaking while the engine was already out so that saved a bit of the trouble. The clutch pedal isn't that bad once you get used to applying a fair bit of force to push it up there and use a large flat head screw driver to move the dash loom out of the way. If turbo I recommend installing the clutch and booster as one piece, rotating the master cylinder out of the way can help.
Well, all done and running again. New hoses and clamps were a good choice. Made the job much easier & recommended. That one screw on the pipes is the biggest PITA ever!!! In the end I didn't put it back on. Never would have succeeded anyway with the motor in. Pipes are held in place by the rubber grommet quite well anyway. Hint for anyone else with a manual - when you put the clutch pedal back in, MAKE SURE the plunger thingo is aligned to the pedal.... or like me you'll be undoing it all again to fix.... (and if you do, like me - don't remove the pedal - too hard - undo the bolts from the clutch master and move that instead....) Also, I made sure I tested it all before putting everything back in (clutch pedal etc) - just in case I had to correct something...... Had it together just enough to make it all work. Oh, suggest somehow tying the clutch master cap on. Lost count how many times I knocked it off and had to fish it out from the bowels of the engine bay.... Now, as a job - that's something I don't want to do again..... To those that wrote the tech articles - THANK YOU. Made the job easier
