Hey guys, I recently bought a 300zx from a friend of my dads who had it stored. It's in very good condition and has been kept stock which is great (Only 91k km on the clock). Anyway, there are a few very minor issues which I have found which I would like to discuss and see what you guys think I should do to fix them. The first issue is that I think there may be a problem with the starter motor. This is an auto N/A Z by the way. Very rarely when I start the car, it makes a loud sound (Probably once in about 30 times starting it). I can't really describe it other than it sounding as if you try to change a gear in a manual car without the clutch fully pressed and you get a grinding sound. I have researched this issue and it appears that the start motor may be loose, I checked it and it is not loose. So now I assume it needs a rebuild. It has been sitting in storage for about 10 years, so it may be stiff or something. My dad knows a good mechanic and I'm wondering what the estimate on rebuilding it would be? Second issue, the spoiler is ruined. Cracks and bubbling. I'm wondering if this will be a pain to replace? There were a few members here who have some for sale but no one has got back to me (I need a silver one, not gun metal, the lighter silver as I'm looking to replace it and not have to paint it ect.). Anyway, I understand that there is adhesive underneath, where can I purchase some adhesive for a replacement? Third issue is that the passenger side door has been replaced, I can tell it used to be blue in colour. Unfortunately the previous owner did not swap the locks out on the original, so I have a different lock with no key for it on the passenger side. How would I go about fixing this, do you think? It's not really a major issue as I wont be using the passenger door but It'd be nice to fix. Sorry, this is my first car and I'm not familiar with things so you'll probably have to dumb it down for me. Thanks guys!
The starter motor issue sounds like the ring gear could be worn. If it is, it's a transmission out job. The majority of spoilers are in this condition, the bubbling will most likely be rust. Some remove the spoiler completely & go "Brazilian". The lock can be replaced, a locksmith should be able to match a lock to the ignition key.
Okay as for the lock, best take it too a GOOD locksmith and he can re key the barrel and too be safe, maybe get some new blank keys and get him too redo the lot. Not much chance in getting a replacement rear spoiler, better off removing it all together, or if you really want it there, repaint a different coloured one. As for the starter motor could be a few things, hopefully one of our mechanics on here can help diagnose that one, maybe get a video with sound of it and post it up for them too hear the issue.
Oh, sounds like a pain to fix. How much would a fitting for one of those cost? I don't have the tools to do it myself. Is there any issue just leaving it and dealing with it or is it just going to ruin more things? The ring gear that is. I would love to remove the spoiler actually, I think it looks a ton better without it. Once it's removed, what's the average cost to weld closed the holes, buy the third break light and then paint the welded parts. It sounds expensive, I've looked at this route and I was thinking it'd be cheaper to buy a new spoiler and paint it if I have to, even replacing the entire boot lid seems cheaper (But a pain in the ass). I wish I could get a video, but I can't due to it's rarity. It sounds exactly like the grinding sound when trying to change gears in a manual without depressing the clutch, very loud and metal on metal sound. Thanks for the info about the lock though guys, never knew they could do that.
The wear on the ring gear can only worsen. Every car will suffer this problem sooner or later. Check it by jacking up the car & support it on car stands. Remove the starter & shine a torch in the hole. You'll see the teeth of the ring gear on the flex plate. Mark one of the teeth with a white paint marker or chalk & place the transmission in neutral. Rotate the flywheel one complete turn using a flat blade screwdriver as a lever. If there is any wear, you'll see it.
Wouldn't bother with the passenger door lock, once a locksmith has had his way with you, the brittle plastic lug that connects the lock to the rods inside the door will break (as they all eventually do) & then no key will work! Just fit remote central locking & then you don't have to scratch around your driver's door lock each night & when it's raining. Hopefully just replacing the starter motor with a known good one will fix your starting noise. However, if it's only happening rarely - probably is one worn tooth. If the car you've just bought has been locked away for 10 years, I'm rather astonished that the original spoiler is buggered. Best bet is to keep your eyes pealed for a replacement rear hatch with a perfect condition original spoiler fitted. Pretty rare but they do come up from time to time. A perfect original spoiler typically guarantees you a rust free hatch, well worth buying & painting if you're keeping your Z a while. Otherwise just order a fibreglass one from conceptzperformance.com Whatever way you go you'll be spending hundreds to fix the issue. But hey, if spending hundreds on your Z is an issue, you've bought yourself the wrong car!
I recently replaced my starter motor with a spare one because the solenoid on my original was shot. The spare I used had been sitting for a while and every 3 or so starts was still having an issue. It turned out because it had been sitting for so long the starter mechanism wasn't throwing out properly. We tested it on a bench and could see it getting stuck. We ended up taking the good parts from two motors and rebuilding a working motor Cheers, Simon
Yeah I was thinking last night I won't bother replacing it I don't think it's worth the money and time. I don't see myself ever unlocking from the passenger side anyway. I'll expand on that and say it was locked up for 10 or so years by the owner previous to the one I bought it off and the person I bought it off used it for about 2 years, maybe didn't store it properly or something. But anyway, I am looking to keep this car for as long as I can, loving every second I'm in it. I understand that it will cost a fair bit to fix it and that's cool. I'm just tossing up these options: Buy a new boot without a spoiler Remove the spoiler, weld up the holes and buy the third break light (Seems expensive) Find an original spoiler and paint it if I have to Buy an aftermarket one like you mentioned and paint it Which one would you pick and which one is cheapest? I'm hoping a rebuild will fix it but as people are saying it sounds like a worn tooth. I think I'll just deal with it until it worsens to the extent that I feel the need to fix it, at the moment it's not an issue.
My stock hatch spoiler is still good, but I am told they all bubble eventually. I was going to swap it for a Brazilian hatch but was rear ended that weekend so that rare opportunity was wasted. Took a while to get the car back from the repairers and there was a small raised bump in the rubber spoiler which makes me think that some part of the other car may have managed to contact the spoiler and loosen it or deform the metal underneath without breaking the skin of the spoiler. The repairer decided that it wasn't their responsibility to fix as it must have been pre-existing in their opinion and destroying the rubber spoiler to prove me wrong wasn't worth their time. (Even though I just bought the car from a dealer and the spoiler was perfect before the accident) I tried massaging the bump in case it was an internal tear that could be worked back in place. My suggestion if the bubbling is minor, would be to silkaflex the front edge of the spoiler so dirt and moisture doesn't get forced under. If it gets worse then a fibreglass copy of the stock spoiler is the best and cheapest option and you probably have rust that needs repairing. You could try and paint it yourself before putting on the car. Brazilian is expensive because you need the aftermarket third brake light insert and panel and patch up holes and paint.
For some seemingly needless reason, Nissan put metal strips into the mold of the original rubber compound spoilers. Over the years, the sealant at the leading edges of the original spoilers perish letting moisture in under the spoiler every time the car gets wet. Naturally the moisture gets trapped & begins to rust those completely stupid metal strips in the spoiler giving you the lumps and cracks. So even if you find a nice looking and successfully removed original spoiler, there's not a lot of point buying and fitting it as rusting would have already commenced and the rust can't be treated properly without destroying the spoiler. Very effective in built obsolescence! Also, thanks to water getting under the spoiler, the hatch usually begins to rust from the inside out as well. Provided your stuffed original spoiler doesn't also mean you've got the start of a rusty hatch, just buy a fiberglass copy of the original spoiler, paint and glue it on. That'd be the cheapest option, if you're lucky you can pick one up for around $200. Otherwise, find a rust free hatch that'll probably also have a great condition original spoiler still on it.
Well the hatch does have rust in it currently, right where you put your hand in to lift the boot, another common place from my research. Though I'm going to the panel beater this week to get that repaired and cut out. I'm seriously considering just replacing the entire boot, the only thing putting me off is how much of a hassle I hear it is, mostly finding a couple of people to hold it while it gets pulled off. Is it really that bad? Easier to just cut the rust out and let the panel beater fix it up? How much would it cost to just get someone else to fit it if I supply the part? And QLDZDR, the spoiler is absolutely ruined haha, bubbles, cracks and peeling, splitting. No hope for it
Once the hatch is rusting, it's time to find another one. Just cutting out what you can see is a very temporary fix although filling it with rust converter as well might help. Removing a hatch is a one person job but a breeze with two, certainly not the worst job on a Z. No-rust hatches are about, I sold one only two weeks ago & another earlier in the year. When having the replacement fitted, make sure they seal the hinge join or it'll rust under there & use a sealant around the two wiring grommets as that's usually where water gets into the hatch in the first place
Thanks for the advice And thank you everyone for the replies, I have an idea on what I'll do now in regards to everything. Will report back once things are fixed Thanks again all!
