Deleting egr, whats the pros and cons and does it affect ur ecu like put it in safety map or detect a code...
PROS. 1) Removes vacuum lines from engine bay reducing risks of vac/boost leaks 2) Removes egr unit, hard pipe to exhaust manifoild and under plenum lines, saving a couple of kgs in weight. 3) Removal of under plenum hard pipes makes plenum pulls simpler 4) Removal of exhaust manifold line makes removal of exhaust manifold simpler 5) Creates additional space a back of engine, allowing easier access to gearbox bolts, heater hose and other parts. 6) Most EGR's are no longer functioning correctly anyway. CONS 1) Removing a EGR is removing a pollution system, which is frowned upon by the police and others. 2) Thats about it for cons.
Its illegal to remove them! Having said that - they push carbon back into the engine and as stated can fail and cause big problems and hence are a popular removal (based on stats)
if you still have the pipe its best to cut and weld the pipe and reuse the fitting since its a tapered seat
So basically the car is breathing in its own fart! Does the ecu after removal put the car into safety boost or safty map? I just want to be sure that when I get my plennum pull done and delete the egr I wont run into complications.
the thread is an oddbakll size, as mentioned by another user, just weld over the hole in the existing piece, or alternatley concept z (and likely others) sell a egr delete kit for a cheap price which includes a plug. just be sure to exhaust cement the sh!t out of whatever you use, so it doesnt work its way it out. if it comes loose, itll fall out and never be seen again.
It can be done with bolts threaded into either the plenum, the PVCR pipes or you can remove the pipes altogether and use bungs/ EGR Blanking plates. If you do a proper job it will be fine anyway. Keeping the piping and EGR in place it appears the EGR is operational and so that can be one benefit vs the weight reduction of the garbage device You will need an imperial size for the oddball size but cannot remember the exact specs on the actual bolts, they can thread in a long way though (can use 50-60mm/ 2.5 - 3 inch length bolts, so they will never be an issue if you do it properly, they will certainly be airtight! Do what is best for your situation, but just do it properly (tap threads or weld etc.) Most people use blanking plates and the bung for the Exhaust EGR bung. JC
The EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is found on almost all modern engines and is considered part of the emissions package of your vehicle. In some states, removing it will cause you to fail your emissions inspection. Unfortunately, there is a huge misunderstanding about it's function circulating around the internet and sadly a lot of folks have actually removed it in the search for "free power." The EGR valve is not simply about re-burning exhaust gasses to try to clean up the emissions. In fact, it's more about saving fuel and as a side effect, reducing emissions. In essence it "shrinks" your combustion chamber when the need for power is low. It has absolutely 0 effect on WOT performance and I'll explain why in this article as well as tell you how clever this little valve really is. The EGR valve does not open under heavy load (I am unaware of any exceptions) and therefore, you will not be burning exhaust gasses while at wide open throttle. The idea that it somehow hurts power is simply yet another forum myth based on the thought that it "always" mixes noncombustible exhaust gasses with the air/fuel mixture but it doesn't. In reality, the valve opens at small throttle openings and in closed throttle situation to help fill the cylinders that are hungry for air but aren't getting any due to the throttle being in the way. It is true that the EGR recycles exhaust gas through the engine and those gasses are less than optimum for combustion. However, at low throttle angles your engine isn't struggling to make power so much as it is struggling to work against the vacuum being created by the pistons traveling up and down the bore. What do I mean? Well, if you've ever played with a syringe, you know that if you pull back on the plunger that it?s very easy to do. However, if you block off the end and try to pull on the plunger, it's much harder to pull back. This is an easy way to think about what are called 'pumping losses.' Pumping loss is wasted energy caused by the throttle being closed or partially closed most of the time. When your throttle is closed, the throttle is restricting the engine's air flow but the engine is still pulling as hard as it does at WOT, at that engine speed. That's why you get manifold vacuum (and it can be quite high, like 30psi or so). Therefore, the engine is actually having to work against itself to pull air in and that's wasting energy ('pumping losses'). This is just a design "flaw"/feature of the modern internal combustion engine and there's not a whole lot that can be done about it. However, the EGR valve allows us to do something very clever. By providing the exhaust gasses to the engine, it's almost like opening the throttle up a bit more but without producing more power/burning more fuel. You're filling the cylinder, which has to be filled with something, but now you're filling it with a small mix of air/fuel and basically do-nothing gas. This reduces wasted energy and nets a gain in fuel economy. This by the way is also why 5 speeds generally get better fuel economy than automatics. To get the BEST fuel economy, you want high throttle angles (more throttle) but the highest possible gear (5th, 6th gear). Running the engine at low throttle angles and high engine speeds is extremely wasteful of fuel on the other hand. For example, cruising in 4th gear at 4500rpm instead of 5th at 2800rpm. This is a very complicated issue that I?ll unpack in another article at another time, but for now know that this is all just an illustration of the importance of low pumping losses. In some automatic transmission vehicles there is a 'sport' mode on the transmission which in most cases does little other than prevent the transmission from downshifting unless throttle angles get very high. On my IS300, it's called "ECT Power", when it's ON the transmission quickly downshifts and is nice for a "sporty" driving feeling. However, in normal mode, you can give the car more throttle in 5th gear without it shifting down thus saving fuel. It doesn't make the car any faster, it only changes the downshift behaviour when you get it more throttle. Anyhow, The EGR valve also helps your engine by richening up the air/fuel mixture but without additional fuel. It does this by reducing the amount of oxygen in the cylinders and thus the amount of fuel needed to keep a sane engine temperature while at cruising speeds. This reduces the amount of fuel your engine needs to burn when power demands are low. Essentially, to some extent, it's making your engine "smaller" when power demands are low by filling those cylinders with less air and fuel which really is almost as good as shrinking the engine (for times when a "big" one isn't needed). Bottom line, there are people out there that block of the EGR valve in search of more power, don't be one of them. In a street car, you absolutely want to keep it. There is no performance advantage to removing it and the only thing you'd accomplish is wasting more fuel. [Article source: Tuneruniversity.com]
Actually there have been tests where one have introduced EGR into a WOT situation. What this showed is that sinse exhaustgas is such a formidable combustion cooler (thats how it reduces NOX. It cools down the burn and a cool burn leaves less NOX) they were able to introduce more boost and timing and was actually able to get more power out of the engine. Despite the reduced cylindervolume. Food for thought.
Thank you... Ive been trying to tell people that for years. But no one listens . One other important function of the EGR is to combat detonation / pinging at light throttle conditions, where the ignition timing is high. This is more a problem in the NA where the comp ratio is higher. I removed my EGR in my old NA, and then suffered light throttle pinging on warm days. I will not remove the EGR again.
I removed my EGR unit and all related hardware in 2011 and I did it purely to copy the later model engine bay setup from the 94+ models where Nissan removed the EGR unit from the Z32's engine bay after implementing a more efficient emission burning tune for the Z32 ECU which I believe made the EGR unit useless in its job and the new tune burnt the same excess gas's without the use of the unit in the car. In my experience with my Z, I have found no noticeable changes in engine performance and fuel consumption as a result of removing the EGR unit. I was aware of Jedi-77 statement of pinning and detonation problems on NA engines after removing the EGR but I have no indications of this problem but I am just a novice when it comes to mechanical knowledge and I cant confirm if my car is pinning or detonating incorrectly since the removal of the unit. What I would take from this thread is if you are looking to remove the EGR unit and its hardware, it should only be done if you are removing it to either free up space in the engine bay and or if you are planning to copy the later model engine setup. If you want to remove it purely for performance gains, then you are wasting your time and will not gain any performance benefits from removing the unit.
